I'm 350 miles into break-in period. Just had a DXD stage 2 daily clutch installed on Tuesday. APR Stage 2+ tune with VWR intake and APR downpipe and HPFP. Been babying car since clutch was installed. Under partial throttle going up hill clutch is slipping in 5th and 6th.
I'm also experiencing a terrible vibration thru the chassis at 2k RPM in upper gears with light load on engine.
Having clutch issues? I have just put 10k miles on my JSW and the clutch feels like it slipping in 1st gear when heavier load(uphill ETC) is present its even worse. We have never drove it hard pretty much cream puff.
View 9 RepliesI don't put many miles on my car, so even though I'm going on 2 years my 2010 GTI (6 speed manual) only has 11k miles on it. Over the last few months I have notice that when starting out in first gear on a hill, as I let the clutch out I will sometimes (not always) hear a squealing noise that isn't insanely loud but definitely noticeable and sounds like a cross between chewbacca and an elephant. It goes away once the clutch is fully let out and I start moving. Over the last couple days I've noticed a hesitation in the throttle occasionally, as if the power is just dying. But, the rpms don't suddenly rev up when this happens (as I would expect if the clutch were slipping). It just feels like the power is dying and hitting the gas has no effect -- the car just slows down. Happened today in 4th gear going about 45 mph -- car just started to slow. 5-10 seconds later it recovered.
Could this all be due to my clutch? If so, can it be adjusted or does it require a new clutch? It's under warranty. Problem is it's intermittent and I just know I'll drive all the way out to the dealer and it won't do it on command. I am APR stage 1. But I don't drive hard at all.
Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
The clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
View 11 RepliesI've noticed this when driving for a while now but was never really sure what was causing it. It was usually in 2nd gear and the car would sorta surge on and off boost almost. yesterday i found out that it only occurred when i gave my car partial throttle. It would build boost, let off, build again etc. Full throttle and it was not a problem at all. My car is an 04.5 GLI chipped / 3" exhaust etc etc and would like to know what I can do with this problem.
View 4 RepliesAbout two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
.Here is a run down of my truck 05 5.4L Screw has 130K on it. Sometime when going up a slight incline the truck at partial throttle will shake very very little. if I put my foot into it the shake goes away and the truck response just fine. It only does this when going uphill on the freeway and on the streets here in Dallas that have slight inclines.
The truck is not throwing any codes nor does it stall at lights. Starts right up in the morning and runs good. Nothing done to the truck except I have an Edge programmer and Magnaflow exhaust. I have pulled the programmer off and returned the truck to stock and it still does the same thing.
I bought the truck used in 07 had 40K miles on it. I'm thinking spark plugs or maybe a coil is going bad. But this doesn't happen all the time just here and there.
I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
View 12 RepliesWell the clutch started slipping finally, not sure if it was the weather change on the drive from here to PA but I slip 5 and 6th wot 4-5k rpms. Have some coin set away because I knew it was going to happen sooner or later did some searching and I'm curious to here the verdict on the RSR clutch how many miles and how its holding up as well as whatever else you are running. Will probably keep the car 2+ for quite a while so not really worried about 3+ power.
View 24 RepliesMy wife was driving my Stage 1 R last night (by herself) and she ran into an issue where when she tried to leave from a red light, the clutch was slipping through the first three gears and she could barely get up any speed. She pulled over, let the car sit for a few minutes and then started going again with no issues.
She drove home about 5 miles and told me about what happened. The car smelled like burning clutch, but when I took it out for a quick test drive, everything seemed fine.
I am at around 5000 miles and have never had any issues before and I don't ever do high-rpm launches. So, could this have been a fluke or a sign of the clutch/pressure plate issues people have been having?
Well I was hoping it was just a fluke the one time it slipped about a month ago, but my clutch is now officially toast. If I'm between 3-4k RPM and punch it in just about any gear I'm getting slip. Trying to pass a car on the highway, and I'm getting slip. I do not launch my car, I simply like to play in the 3-4k rpm powerband as I love the torque. Apparently spirited driving while remaining in the peak torque range of the engine will kill the stock clutch. God only knows how long the OEM clutches will last with people that drive their R like a racekar... 3200 Miles, Stage 1+ ....
View 24 RepliesI have an issue that I thought was a slipping clutch, but my dealer says it isn't. If I'm cruising at highway speed (stg1 gti)say around 65 and I get on to pass the revs will surge, but there will be no apparent acceleration to go with it. The dealer said it isn't the clutch because there is a standard test they do where it would be jerky in 2nd. Could this be a DV or something?
View 24 RepliesI went stg.1 at 1000 miles & stg.2 around 6000
miles, then K04 I'm at a little over 6400 miles & my clutch slips in 4th & 5th gear. I never got the chance to install my APR inner cooler. I really hope the Southbend stg.2 endurance setup works well so I can move on to the suspension. This hobby can get expensive but the car is a blast to drive! It never fails to put a smile on my face & has definitely taken the smile off other drivers faces when they realize they can't get by me.
So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
View 1 RepliesSo my clutch started to slip in 4th when I first got my apr stage 1 tune at 24k miles. now 600 miles later it's slipping in 3rd. put it back to stock mode and it doesn't slip in any gear.
My question, if I replace my clutch with an OEM sachs what are the chances of it slipping again? From what I understand the golf R uses the same clutch disk and pressure plate as the gti so why is mine slipping so early? luck of the draw?
I prefer oem because it is a lot quieter and I do not plan to mod any further than stage 1. I'm still running the stock airbox.
I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
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