Dodge - W150 :: Engine Stumbling / Partial Throttle But Only When Warmed Up
May 3, 2015
About two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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My 1992 Dodge W150 truck skips when I am accelerating slowly from a stopped position. It is an automatic and seems to change gears properly. It skips between every gear change until you reach cruising speed. The skip does not occur or I do not notice it, if I accelerate rapidly. After I bought it, a mechanic installed new plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, dist cap, fuel filter and speed sensor. Truck has over 90,000 miles.
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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I've noticed this when driving for a while now but was never really sure what was causing it. It was usually in 2nd gear and the car would sorta surge on and off boost almost. yesterday i found out that it only occurred when i gave my car partial throttle. It would build boost, let off, build again etc. Full throttle and it was not a problem at all. My car is an 04.5 GLI chipped / 3" exhaust etc etc and would like to know what I can do with this problem.
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I'm 350 miles into break-in period. Just had a DXD stage 2 daily clutch installed on Tuesday. APR Stage 2+ tune with VWR intake and APR downpipe and HPFP. Been babying car since clutch was installed. Under partial throttle going up hill clutch is slipping in 5th and 6th.
I'm also experiencing a terrible vibration thru the chassis at 2k RPM in upper gears with light load on engine.
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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.Here is a run down of my truck 05 5.4L Screw has 130K on it. Sometime when going up a slight incline the truck at partial throttle will shake very very little. if I put my foot into it the shake goes away and the truck response just fine. It only does this when going uphill on the freeway and on the streets here in Dallas that have slight inclines.
The truck is not throwing any codes nor does it stall at lights. Starts right up in the morning and runs good. Nothing done to the truck except I have an Edge programmer and Magnaflow exhaust. I have pulled the programmer off and returned the truck to stock and it still does the same thing.
I bought the truck used in 07 had 40K miles on it. I'm thinking spark plugs or maybe a coil is going bad. But this doesn't happen all the time just here and there.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I have a 1993 dodge ram 15 passenger van. When it is cold, it runs fine, but after it warms up it starts to miss on the 6th cylinder. We have checked the plug and wires. Did not get anywhere. We replaced the injector. No dice.
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I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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I have a 1991 gmc 1/2 ton with 200K on it. Its a 350 engine. The engine has been stumbling for a long time. I've tried many things ...new fuel pump and filter...complete tune up.....checked all vacuum lines..replaced a couple lines...EGR valve.....changed head gasket and intake gasket. Checked the warm up flap inside the air cleaner. I am now very very frustrated.
This stumbling happens often but intermittent also....sometimes worse than other times like the truck is about to stall. The truck seems like its being held back like a loss of power. The truck will begin to stumble so i will pull over and rev it up and it seems to clear itself for a short while then right back to stumbling.
Upon warmup in the morning she seems to run fine until hot. No codes being thrown ...service engine light NOT on. Even while at a stop i will hold the throttle part way and revs at different rpms. I am now at a loss and feel defeated.
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I have a stumbling engine when my chevy shifts into over drive. I have new plugs wires dist rotor coil ign module fuel filter air filter. Checked timing with auto advance unplugged and it is not @ TDC but about 4 deg advanced. It is also not consistent in its stumble.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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The issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
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So i have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4cyl .190k miles. My issue is the motor has a very rough/shaking idle,abs light on,and check engine light on.it also continues to blow fuses to the tail lights and dash, haha
Ive had it since it was at 40k and has been a great truck,although lately i have really neglected it.ive changed the spark plugs and new wires new timing chain. I would d love to start trouble shooting some of this stuff this weekend if the weather holds up.
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Mileage 192k. Signs...stumbling/rough engine startup for first time of the day and anytime the engine sits for a few minutes before turning on again (battery charging/speed high enough for engine to start, etc).
2010 Prius engine start stumble - YouTube
Started out with no code, then check engine light started coming on. P0301, misfire cylinder #1. Sparkplugs were replaced, and coil pack for #1 switched with known good one. EGR tube also cleaned of carbon.
Stumbling/roughness has been getting worse, about an inch of coolant used per week of driving. No oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil (no milkshake or anything like that).
Dirty fuel injectors were suspected, but no improvement after using Techron. Finally, a boroscope was used to inspect the cylinders through the sparkplug holes, and a very slow leak was found in cylinder #1. Since liquid cannot be compressed, during the compression cycle significant misfiring occurs.
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