I have a 1993 dodge ram 15 passenger van. When it is cold, it runs fine, but after it warms up it starts to miss on the 6th cylinder. We have checked the plug and wires. Did not get anywhere. We replaced the injector. No dice.
View 8 RepliesI have a misfire on 1 I recently changed intake and plenum gasket, changed plug, wire, injector, cap, rotor, compression check and pulled valve cover rockers moving good and I recently swapped injector wires on 1&3 only shows misfire on 1.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Dodge Durango, I just changed the catalytic converter, the truck acts like it isn't getting any gas, when I drive it above 65 mph for 20 miles, but I can pull to the side of the road for a min or two and go again, it keeps doing this. I can drive it all day in town no problem. Comp. says misfire on 1,2,,&4.
View 3 RepliesMy dad's 97 dodge neon is showing a misfire in the number 4 cylinder. He replaced the spark plug but still getting that code and engine not running smooth. What other things could cause this? Engine has about 130,000 miles on it, had been running fine.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 Geo Prizm with about 120,000 miles, it recently developed a problem where once it is warmed up, it will not start. It starts right up when it is cold first thing in the morning, but once I drive it for 15-20 minutes, if I shut it off, and then turn the key to restart it, nothing happens, no crank, maybe just a small hum. I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned the battery connection and thought it had fixed it, but the next day it did the same thing. Also, it runs fine until it gets shut off, even if I leave it running for hours, it runs fine until I turn it off and then it will not start again for about an hour.
View 5 RepliesI have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
View 14 Replies152000 miles. Religious oil changes at 3000 miles. New plugs before this started.Drove about 60 miles on a warm day. Ran fine. Went to start it again, it seemed to be running on only 5 of 6 cylinders. Carefully limped it home. It did not overheat (stayed at normal temp) and the engine never died. The next day I pulled each spark plug and had a look. They all looked fine, none looked fouled. The dead cylinder was not obvious. Started it up, it ran great. This was an even hotter day, drove off to do errands. Probably drove 5 miles. Stopped, and when I started it up again, the miss was back! Went home, and while it was still running crummy, tried running it with one plug disconnected from the coilpack at a time, until I found the one that it didn't seem to matter if it was connected or not... cylinder #2. Later pulled that plug again, fine. Plug wire measure about 5K ohms on my meter, as its the shortest one. Sounds about right to me.
Today (its about 75 degrees) I bought a new coil pack and put it in. Ran beautifully. Warmed the car up, still ran nice. drove a few miles down to the freeway, ran great, got off at next exit. Proceed to run just perfect until I was slowing down for a light, then the miss came back.
Beyond checking the compression, what else might I try? I don't tolerate mechanics BTW, I do everything myself.
My 1993 Geo Prizm (with 275,000 miles on it) makes an awful high pitched screeching noise when I first start my car in the morning. The noise goes away once I am in second or third gear and is completely gone when my car is warmed up. It used to just happen in the winter and now it also happens during the summer. I had all my belts replaced maybe 6 years ago. Is this a problem of loose belts or bad power steering pump. Looking at the pump when I'm turning the wheel it seems as though the power steering pump belt stops turning. I also have crunching noises comes from, I think, my wheels when I turn sharply. What could this noise be? Time for a new car??!!!
View 11 RepliesI have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
View 4 RepliesMy Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
View 1 RepliesHave a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
View 4 Replies06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
View 4 RepliesI have an '03 gti vr6 with a miss fire problem. Once it's warmed up is when I notice the problem. Just changed all the spark plugs and now I'm lost.
View 21 Replies'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
View 1 RepliesAbout two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 Replies1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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