Geo - Prizm :: 1993 - Screeching Noise Before Car Has Warmed Up
Nov 5, 2012
My 1993 Geo Prizm (with 275,000 miles on it) makes an awful high pitched screeching noise when I first start my car in the morning. The noise goes away once I am in second or third gear and is completely gone when my car is warmed up. It used to just happen in the winter and now it also happens during the summer. I had all my belts replaced maybe 6 years ago. Is this a problem of loose belts or bad power steering pump. Looking at the pump when I'm turning the wheel it seems as though the power steering pump belt stops turning. I also have crunching noises comes from, I think, my wheels when I turn sharply. What could this noise be? Time for a new car??!!!
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm with about 120,000 miles, it recently developed a problem where once it is warmed up, it will not start. It starts right up when it is cold first thing in the morning, but once I drive it for 15-20 minutes, if I shut it off, and then turn the key to restart it, nothing happens, no crank, maybe just a small hum. I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned the battery connection and thought it had fixed it, but the next day it did the same thing. Also, it runs fine until it gets shut off, even if I leave it running for hours, it runs fine until I turn it off and then it will not start again for about an hour.
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1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
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I have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
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152000 miles. Religious oil changes at 3000 miles. New plugs before this started.Drove about 60 miles on a warm day. Ran fine. Went to start it again, it seemed to be running on only 5 of 6 cylinders. Carefully limped it home. It did not overheat (stayed at normal temp) and the engine never died. The next day I pulled each spark plug and had a look. They all looked fine, none looked fouled. The dead cylinder was not obvious. Started it up, it ran great. This was an even hotter day, drove off to do errands. Probably drove 5 miles. Stopped, and when I started it up again, the miss was back! Went home, and while it was still running crummy, tried running it with one plug disconnected from the coilpack at a time, until I found the one that it didn't seem to matter if it was connected or not... cylinder #2. Later pulled that plug again, fine. Plug wire measure about 5K ohms on my meter, as its the shortest one. Sounds about right to me.
Today (its about 75 degrees) I bought a new coil pack and put it in. Ran beautifully. Warmed the car up, still ran nice. drove a few miles down to the freeway, ran great, got off at next exit. Proceed to run just perfect until I was slowing down for a light, then the miss came back.
Beyond checking the compression, what else might I try? I don't tolerate mechanics BTW, I do everything myself.
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I have a 1993 dodge ram 15 passenger van. When it is cold, it runs fine, but after it warms up it starts to miss on the 6th cylinder. We have checked the plug and wires. Did not get anywhere. We replaced the injector. No dice.
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I have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
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My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Geo Prizm a.k.a. Toyota Corolla. I am new to car ownership and don't know much about maintenance yet.
Recently, the back right wheel has started making a soft "wumm wumm wumm" noise when the car is in motion. The faster I drive, the more the noise speeds up, so it seems like something is coming loose or out of alignment. I've driven over a fair number of potholes in the last couple of months, and while I don't remember any particularly gnarly ones, I imagine that's what has caused the problem.
Any guesses as to what might be going wrong, how dire it is, and what I should expect to hear from the mechanic when I take it in?
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My Prizm is making a noise that seems to be related to the blower but sounds like it is coming from behind the control panel/radio. Even changes volume and stops with bumps. I am going to check the blower motor motor, but sound doesn't appear to be coming from the dash area where I believe the blower motor is. What else it may be?
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When my vent is on the face setting, a grating/whistling noise emanates when the fan is on.This does not happen on the floor or defrost positions. The noise diminishes when it is in the face and partial floor or defrost setting. What may be causing the noise and how I could fix it.
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I drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
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About 5 years ago, my air conditioner started making a metallic-sounding grinding noise, when it is turned OFF. This noise goes away if the A/C is on. My mechanic said some part was slightly bent, bent it back, and this fixed it for a while. Eventually the noise came back but was intermittent. I drove the car for years hoping it would go away, leaving the A/C on most of the time. The noise is no longer intermittent, and my new mechanic says that it seems louder than before and if I don't get it fixed, it might cause the car to stall out. He offered to bypass it with a belt or replace the unit. What this could be? I drive with the A/C on now. 1998 geo prizm
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm that I just had the front pipe replaced on. It was not accelerating well and making noise. New front pipe and it feels like a new car. The check engine light came on. i cleared the code, drove it for a day or so, and the light is back on. My exhaust mechanic says we don't really need to worry about the cat con hurting our engine unless we see a decrease in performance. Are there any mechanics out there who would say that is true. The car has 160,000 miles and we want to see it go another 100,000 or so, and not do anything to damage the engine.
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When I start my 2003 SC430 I hear this screeching noise. It sounds like it is coming out of the dash but it may be under the hood because my neighbor heard it outside the car.
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My GX470 has been making a screeching sound when I back up only. It's more of a nail on blackboard sound that comes and goes!
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
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My wife's 2009 Tiguan has 72k miles and is a pretty good commuter. But it has been hot here in Texas, which may have attributed to this problem.
After about 5 minutes of idling, there is a loud screeching noise.
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