My Prizm is making a noise that seems to be related to the blower but sounds like it is coming from behind the control panel/radio. Even changes volume and stops with bumps. I am going to check the blower motor motor, but sound doesn't appear to be coming from the dash area where I believe the blower motor is. What else it may be?
View 4 RepliesAbout 5 years ago, my air conditioner started making a metallic-sounding grinding noise, when it is turned OFF. This noise goes away if the A/C is on. My mechanic said some part was slightly bent, bent it back, and this fixed it for a while. Eventually the noise came back but was intermittent. I drove the car for years hoping it would go away, leaving the A/C on most of the time. The noise is no longer intermittent, and my new mechanic says that it seems louder than before and if I don't get it fixed, it might cause the car to stall out. He offered to bypass it with a belt or replace the unit. What this could be? I drive with the A/C on now. 1998 geo prizm
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy Prizm that I just had the front pipe replaced on. It was not accelerating well and making noise. New front pipe and it feels like a new car. The check engine light came on. i cleared the code, drove it for a day or so, and the light is back on. My exhaust mechanic says we don't really need to worry about the cat con hurting our engine unless we see a decrease in performance. Are there any mechanics out there who would say that is true. The car has 160,000 miles and we want to see it go another 100,000 or so, and not do anything to damage the engine.
View 4 RepliesMy prius that I got about 1 1/2 years ago (2013 model) was making some noise. After conducting a few experiments I came to the conclusion it was the heat that was causing it. I removed the glovebox and lower plastic panel as well to see if it was actually the blower that was making the noise. And it was the blower.
So now it's like 20 degrees outside and I haven't used the heat because I didn't want to blow something so gotta get this fixed ASAP.
Like I mentioned glovebox and lower panel are open I've removed 2 of the 3 screws necessary to remove the blower. So the problem lies with the 3rd screw. There is a plastic socket with wires that is preventing me from reaching the 3rd screw so I have to remove that socket. So I have a couple pictures and how I can remove this so I can access the blower motor.
Also isn't it strange that the car isn't even 3 years old and the blower is giving me problems?
I have a 2005 BMW X5 and the heater motor makes a shrill noise only when I am turning right.
View 1 RepliesMy A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
View 4 RepliesI posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 E350 Econoline-based RV. The blower motor intermittently makes a horrible whirring/buzzing sound, usually if on position 3 or 4 (high). Doesn't stop until I turn the HVAC to Off. The blower motor vibrates quite a bit while making this noise (verified with my hand). The problem occurs even if the engine isn't running. This started a few years ago, and has simply gotten worse.
Since it runs OK at the lower speeds (until the problems start with the higher speeds), I think that means I can rule out something simple like debris? Also, when the engine is under load (climbing hills, etc.), the blower fan cuts out. Could that be a resistor problem, or something else?
My brother's truck is a 2001 reg cab manual 4x4 with 4.6 and auto tans. Truck has roughly 130 i believe on it, this mornig he had blower on high in defrost position about three miles from leaving his apartment he said he heard a POP and the blower quit. No burnt smells or anything he said. SO Im gonna check the fuse first after that what should i do? Is there a relay for the blower? And do the new trucks have a resister for the blower speeds? If so how do i check these parts?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6l triton that just started to make a squealing noise. I have replaced a couple of pulleys that were bad but that did not get rid of the problem. It only makes the noise when I give it some gas and it is coming from around the fan clutch area.
View 5 Repliesmy '97 subaru impreza outback sport has a rhythmic wosh wosh sound from the right rear wheel when the brakes are applied. It has rear drum brakes. I put on new drums, shoes and springs and the sound is still there. When braking hard, there is a metal knocking sound as well. What this could be?
View 2 Replies2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
View 1 RepliesI just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
I have a 1999 Chevy Geo Prizm a.k.a. Toyota Corolla. I am new to car ownership and don't know much about maintenance yet.
Recently, the back right wheel has started making a soft "wumm wumm wumm" noise when the car is in motion. The faster I drive, the more the noise speeds up, so it seems like something is coming loose or out of alignment. I've driven over a fair number of potholes in the last couple of months, and while I don't remember any particularly gnarly ones, I imagine that's what has caused the problem.
Any guesses as to what might be going wrong, how dire it is, and what I should expect to hear from the mechanic when I take it in?
My 1993 Geo Prizm (with 275,000 miles on it) makes an awful high pitched screeching noise when I first start my car in the morning. The noise goes away once I am in second or third gear and is completely gone when my car is warmed up. It used to just happen in the winter and now it also happens during the summer. I had all my belts replaced maybe 6 years ago. Is this a problem of loose belts or bad power steering pump. Looking at the pump when I'm turning the wheel it seems as though the power steering pump belt stops turning. I also have crunching noises comes from, I think, my wheels when I turn sharply. What could this noise be? Time for a new car??!!!
View 11 RepliesMostly while negotiating in very crude camp ground roadways, we started to hear a new noise. This started before the incident I will be reporting in my third thread, so I do not attribute this noise to that incident. The noise seems to come from applying the brake when the car is already stopped or nearly stopped. Its a bit of a chirp, but it is a low-throated chirp. It think they come in twos, "chirp, chirp."
View 6 RepliesI have a pinging (imagine the sound of a trailer's chain hitting the pavement when being towed behind you) sound definitely coming from the front end that is only noticeable when doing 50+. No noise present at any other time....not even a faint noise with the hood up. I was advised to check for play in the tensioner pulley and nothing...feels solid. I did have a Neuspeed power pulley put on about a month ago but did not change out the tensioner. Rotated tires and put in torque arm insert about 2 weeks ago. Just a fyi on what I've done to the car since purchasing in Jan and she has 70k miles. I just noticed this pinging noise 3-4 days ago.
VW guy is going to look her over/drive her on Monday...but I'm concerned about further damage until the problem is diagnosed/resolved.
V10... Suspect it's the power steering pump...
Seems to come from left of centre of engine. Not taken any covers off yet to see what can be seen..
Scans clear. It's arguably too loud even to drive! So needs some attention very soon.
I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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