I have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6l triton that just started to make a squealing noise. I have replaced a couple of pulleys that were bad but that did not get rid of the problem. It only makes the noise when I give it some gas and it is coming from around the fan clutch area.
View 5 RepliesMy R has 56k on it. it sat for just over a year and a half and i just got it back on the road a week ago. Two days ago i started it to pull it on my rack and change the oil and it was making a rattling/chattering noise. The noise was going away when i pushed the clutch in but not anymore and the noise goes away in the higher rpm's. on the way home it threw a code and the check engine light came on and with throttle it started making an awful squealing noise. I am kinda scared to drive it.... I guess ill start pulling the motor, transmission or both tomorrow...
View 2 Replies2003 vr6
Belt squeal but when I have clutch pushed in no noticeable noise.Abs kicks in at low speed stops. I sprayed the belts with dressing noise went away momentarily actually sounded like it could have killed it almost. Right now I have the and fuse pulled to just get me by.
I've had this truck almost 2 yrs now. It is not a 4 x 4. The trouble I am having is on the driver side. What happened first was while I was driving it i heard a loud squealing noise then a loud pop. After that the truck seemed fine I checked under it and everything looked ok. After that I drove it to a couple stores did fine but i heard the loud pop again. Once I left the store I was driving on the highway and it jerked to the left and i heard a grinding/rattling noise. I put my flashers on slowed down and every once in a while it would still pull to the right but the grinding noise remained constant. I parked it waited for a tow and i turned the truck around and drove it up the ramp there was another pop sound but I didn't hear the grinding. It seems to happen on and off. And it doesn't matter if I am turning or going straight.
View 2 RepliesOver the last few days my f150 has developed a really annoying squeal that's intermittent. I can never really predict when Ill hear it. Usually I first hear it when I am accelerating to a speed greater than 30 or 40 mph. And it will continue if i keep my foot on the gas or if i slowly hit the brakes. Usually the only way it will stop is if I slow down to under roughly 30 or if i hit the brakes. pretty hard.
But sometimes Ill hear it at various speeds just for a second or two, usually when I am turning or when I am decelerating by taking my foot off the gas and not braking. again its hard to predict. It sounds really similar to a car with squeaky brakes. and just like squeaky brakes, you can hear the noise slow down as the f150 slows down. but again it doesnt only happen when i hit the brakes. I dont know what it is.
I have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
View 1 RepliesThe Throttle Body on my 2001, 4.6 L is making a strange whirring noise, when you puy your hand on the intake pipe, you can feel a slight vibration. The Truck idles and runs okay, with no codes. Giving it a little gas and the noise goes away. The last thing I did was clean the IAC with Gum Out Carb cleaner, the second or third time I've done this over many years, with no problems. I'm a little perplexed at the cause.
View 6 RepliesI have a throttle body noise that sounds like a warble,It is sporadic and I think it should not be their. But I have heard some other f-150s make the same noise. Is it normal or is something not right.
View 3 Replies2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 Replies2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
View 1 RepliesI just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
View 9 RepliesWell, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
2009 Sonata 2.4 AT 111,000 miles and at start up sometimes I hear a squealing noise from the transmission for a few minutes and then it goes away...
View 2 Replies97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
When it rained recently, the windshield wiper started making a loud squealing noise whenever it would wipe down. When I would spray the windshield fluid, the noise goes away but returns when I stop. No noise when it wipes up or when the rain is light drizzle or very heavy. So only noisy when rain is medium to heavy.
I thought maybe something sticky got on the windshield so used a regular glass cleaner multiple times but it's still noisy. What it could possibly be???
Our 2010 Toyota Camry makes a squealing noise as we back out of our garage.Does this mean we new rear brakes?
View 15 RepliesIts a 2006 Toyota Camry 2.4l.. its been sitting for about 4 weeks now which has given me and her some personal time...I cant get it to run without me covering the intake hole. Last night my girlfriend and I were tinkering with it... before I sprayed carb cleaner and sealed the hole off with my hand she pressed the gas and I heard a grinding noise. So I told her to pump the gas with the ignition on and the gas peddles and the grinding noise was synchronized in timing. I turn the ignition off and press gas nothing... I'm guessing that's because its a fuel injected vehicle and everything is electronic (ECM) also I noticed when you cycle key from on to off it makes that noise also... won't start and I need my car.
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