Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Started Making Screeching Noise When Turn The Wheel And Moving At Slow Speeds
Apr 14, 2013
97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
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So... Took my car into a tire shop (tire pros) to get a screw pulled out of my front left tire... And after they finish the job - the guy comes up to me and says "your front brakes don't have much life left." I said, "I know I'm planning to change them in the next couple of weeks"...
He then said, "well I think your sensor just went off, when I pulled the car around.." I said "okay", got in the car and drove off - no brake light what so ever.
Anyways, A few hours later when pulling my car around the corner on the way home - I noticed that I am all of the sudden getting a random scraping sound from the front-right rotor anytime I turn the well all the way to the left at slow speeds...
I'm not too worried about it - just want to make sure these guys aren't trying to sabotage my car! The only thing that kills me, is that I didn't have the sound before and no all of the sudden I do? I'm assuming they somehow slightly moved the pad, causing it to somehow squeal - I'm just not exactly sure what they did...
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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I have a 2003 Camry 'SE Automatic with almost 18,000 miles - that's right, low mileage. This week the steering wheel started making squeaky noises when I turn it. It doesn't matter which way I turn, it will squeak and it doesn't happen all the time. Should I be worried and what can I do about it?
NOTE: This started happening the day after we had got an 1 or 2 of snow. That morning when I opened the door to get the brush/scraper and little snow fell in the driver's side of the car. Perhaps a little fell on the steering wheel.
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I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry. About 10 months ago, when I get a transmission fluid change, the mechanic told me that my power steering fluid is dirty. A few month later, in the cold winter month, my steering wheel make loud screeching noise when the engine is cold only. The mechanic told me that I have a small power steering leak. But since I don't see the power steering fluid level goes down and the mechanic say I don't have to fix it now, I didn't do anything about it.
About a month ago, there is a squeaking noise come from my steering wheel every time I drive very slowly out of (or into) my driveway and turning the wheel. Now I heard the noise when I drive slowly (10 mph) and turning the wheel too. So what is the problem that cause the noise when I turn the wheel at slow speed? I only drive about 5k miles a year. Is it safe if I just continue to ignore the problem?
Also, the color of my current power steering fluid is amber, but a little dark. Which power steering fluid should I buy?
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My truck was working fine and I drove it to school one day and I was driving and I noticed the RPM was high and the truck wasn't moving correctly luckily I made it home and parked it now it won't move at all I can shift into gears and I put it in first and reverse and let off the clutch and it doesn't move like the clutch is still disengaged. The Slave Cylinder is pressing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch and then releasing. I have a single cab 1999 Ford F150 4.2 V6.
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2007 camry le with 85k miles, there is a bad vibration in the front end, the steering wheel rocks, and when you turn right or left at slow speeds there is one knock, not a clicking, just one knock, also noticed the front driver side wheel has heavy wear on the outside corner of the tire, cv joint, bearings...
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During the past couple of months, I've noticed a moaning when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds, mainly while driving in parking lots. When I turn the A/C off, the sound disappears. Is my compressor on its way out? The dealer replaced a leaky condenser in 2011. My fear is that they didn't replace it properly with adding oil back to the system.
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I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
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I am first time ford owner of a 2003 ford f150 super crew fx4 with the 5.4 Triton and lately when I accelerate hard and it down shifts. It shifts excessively hard or when your going slow and the have to accelerate it also shifts really hard i dont know if it is the diff the U-joints or if its the transmission.
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I have a 97 F150 4.2l auto 4x4. The truck seems to surge or hesitate at pretty much all speeds. I have had the truck on fords so-called super "sbds" computer and they found nothing. I am taking it tuesday to have the o'2 sensors and CAT. Convertors checked at a local parts/service store. Also found out today that my speedometer is 5 mph to slow (doing 65 but speedo only registers 60).
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2011 Hyundai sonata. My issues is that there seems to be a snapping/brushing noise when turn my wheel either left or right within under 5 MPH. Some people at work stated it could be the CV bolt? Not sure if that is correct, or something else. I am 117K miles, never have replaced anything suspension related.
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
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I've recently been having a metallic creaking/rattle go on when idle or moving at slow speeds. I took it in during my 20k service and they said there was something with a cable and the heat shield... the service manager had also said something about the catlytic converter - but when I re-checked the service slip - nothing. This was originally in March.
The noise came back again recently so I had a different dealer check it out when I finally had the fuel tank recall done. They confirmed the noise and checked the heat shield (I had told them about the original complaint), but said there wasn't much that can be done - they made sure all the bolts were tight, but the noise was coming from the heat shield "flexing."
Most of the time it's fine and the noise went away for several months. It's subtle again, but if it becomes constant - it seems like I have a valid argument to have the heat shield replaced - seems defective.
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