Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Not Moving In Reverse Like Clutch Is Still Disengaged
Feb 11, 2016
My truck was working fine and I drove it to school one day and I was driving and I noticed the RPM was high and the truck wasn't moving correctly luckily I made it home and parked it now it won't move at all I can shift into gears and I put it in first and reverse and let off the clutch and it doesn't move like the clutch is still disengaged. The Slave Cylinder is pressing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch and then releasing. I have a single cab 1999 Ford F150 4.2 V6.
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97 F150 4.9 200xxx 5 Speed .....
I'm having an issue with my truck. It only seems to happen during warm 80+ weather. In the mornings, and during colder weather, the truck runs perfectly.
My problem is; Every time I go to get going and feather the clutch, either in 1st or reverse, my truck bucks wildly.
I changed the plug wires about 500 miles ago, and am about 4000 miles on a rebuilt engine (plugs as well) and new clutch/resurfaced flywheel. The clutch reservoir is full and I haven't noticed any leaks. There have been no codes thrown.
Could it be a possible fuel problem? I think I changed the fuel filter about 7k-10k miles ago.
I was also wondering if the Gotts mod could be causing it. I did the mod during the winter time, and this is my first summer with it on. My air filter is fine.
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99 f150 supercab LWB 2wd 5 speed with 4wheel disc. I just replaced the rear rotors, pads, ebrake hardware and ebrake shoes. I have the shoes adjusted in as much as possible. With the e brake pedal disengaged and backing up, the e brake shoes grab the rotors and try to stop the truck from backing up.
I have lifted the rear end and pulled off the star wheel cover and turned it back as far as I can. When I rotate the tire forward by hand its fine, but when I reverse the rotation I can see the star wheel move abruptly through the hole in the backing plate as the brakes grab the rotor. What to do next?
I put the star wheel in the way the last one came out, could it be backwards, does it matter? I should tell you that currently I only have 1 side (drivers) ebrake installed because I am missing a piece for the other side that I can't buy. Will be going to a junkyard soon. This should not cause what I'm experiencing though.
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Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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I have a buddy that has a 1998 f150 4x4 with 4.6l and 332836 km on it. It will go in to reverse but will not go in to drive at all. Is his transmission shot? Or is there anyway to test it to find out what the problem is.
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My issue started as simply a lack of air conditioning. Upon initial inspection I noticed that the compressor clutch is not engaging when I turn the ac on. So I figured the next step would be to see if I am getting voltage to the clutch. My Chilton book says to test this with the truck on, so I disconnected the harness from the compressor, attached my meter to the cable, and attempted to start my truck. I've found that the truck wont start with this cable disconnected. It will turn over but just never starts. Also the fuel pump comes on as it should.
I've repeated this several times. It always starts with no problem when the compressor clutch is connected. I understand that there is some monitoring circuit with the pcm so maybe that has something to do with it but I'm pretty fuzzy on how that works. Upon further inspection, it looks like I should be able to test my ac signal with the engine off, so maybe that's not such a big deal, but this whole truck not starting business is blowing my mind.
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The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
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I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
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So I don't know how long my car has been doing this I have only had it for about 2 weeks and was wondering if its normal.. I can hear like a chattering sound when my foot is off the clutch when I am idling but if I depress it and engage it there is no more noise( I'm sure when I'm driving its doing it too but with the other stuff going on I can't here it when I'm driving) . Is it normal or somewhat normal or should I be worried and go and have it checked?
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On my 13 Elantra since the day I got it almost 2 year's now has always made this click noise when I disengaged the clutch and go, (not the clutch solenoid noise similar) I'll hear the clutch solenoid then almost like my left front brake was slightly sticking it makes a click like the caliper's popping loose!? I've mentioned it the stealership & nothing they tried to tell me the dust shield was touching however the noise came back within minutes I noticed it! It's just one of those annoying sound's that you need to figure out or go crazy, stick model, could it be the clutch fork or bearing releasing just can't figure it out.
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2 years ago I had the transmission and clutch replaced on my 2002 Echo. it has driven fine since then but three days ago we were on the highway and the clutch suddenly disengaged..I don't know if that's the right terminology but it was as if I had pushed the clutch in (I hadn't) and the engine was just revving but not accelerating...I tried all the gears with the same result...eventually my car slowed to a stop.
A day later I had it towed to the mechanic...when he drove it it was fine, and did not exhibit the problem at all. He checked out the clutch and said it looked fine, and said my description of the problem made it sound as if the clutch had overheated....but he said that usually happens with city driving, not on the highway. So he is stumped..the car seems to be fine now, though I haven't had it out on the highway yet.
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2000 GTI
260,000 miles (60% highway)
2.0L 4cylinder AEG
All stock.
I have a new issue developing on the clutch of my car. When I fully press the clutch pedal to change gear, I hear cacophony of grinding, hissing and whirring noise, probably coming from gearbox. When I take my foot off of the clutch pedal completely, the noise is gone. half clutch has reduced amount of these noises. I had this symptom briefly one night two weeks ago and when I topped up oil, this was gone. Tonight, it is back.
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2000 f150 v6... I just got the truck and was fine went to instant oil change and changed the oil used 5w30 and there filter unknown brand? now I'm getting a ticking kinda like a lifter tick?? you can hear it at idle not when moving.. Would the thicker oil be causing this? or the cheap filter is so filter should I go to? Motorcraft? bk to factory oil?
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Here is the critical info...1999 F-150 2wd supercab, 4.6 litre, Automatic, 138,000 mi
Recently, I had the upper control arms, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints replaced. They also did an alignment. Since then, the truck has had what seems to be a rough, jiggly ride. I can feel every little imperfection in the road, even when moving very slowly. I've also noticed that my doors sometimes rattle now (they didn't before the work was done). On the highway, sometimes it seems that a tire will get into a bouncing condition which can continue for quit awhile. It is also harder to keep the truck centered in the lane.
I went back to the same place that did the work and told them to double check everything, (which they did, found nothing wrong).
To try to fix this, I have...
replaced the shocks (new ones are bilstein)
balanced the tires
rotated the tires
checked air pressure (32 psi)
I don't know if the following facts have anything to do with anything, but... When I look at the upper control arm attachment points, there is a metal plate that is (I'm told) to keep the camber in the factory setting. This plate was removed on one side to adjust the camber away from the factory setting. Also, I don't see how the castor is controlled? Is there an adjustment for that. Can castor be to blame for any of this? Can cheap parts (control arm, ball joints) be to blame?
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I am trying to track down where exactly a clunk is coming from on a 2003 Explorer 4x4(auto, hi, low). My buddy brought it by my house yesterday and i cannot pin point it. If you put the truck in reverse, once you hit the gas, it clunks pretty loud. If you just put it in reverse, let off the brake, it will not do it until you hit the gas.
I got the explorer up in the air and crawled under it. I had my buddy switch from forward to reverse, and back again. Every time he let off the brake in forward or reverse, it would clunk. The reverse clunk was definitely louder.
It does the clunks in all settings, -auto,hi,low. No flashing dash lights. The dash lights do come on accordingly. One thing he pointed out was the Auto,HI,Low Buttons themselves are not backlit anymore. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
I cannot narrow it down as the whole transfer case, front driveshaft and front diff, shake with the clunk. U joints don't seem to have play (prying with small prybar). I then went ahead and unplugged the big wire connector at the transfer case and the clunk went away.
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