Golf V R32 :: Metallic Creaking / Rattling Go On When Idle Or Moving At Slow Speeds
Aug 9, 2009
I've recently been having a metallic creaking/rattle go on when idle or moving at slow speeds. I took it in during my 20k service and they said there was something with a cable and the heat shield... the service manager had also said something about the catlytic converter - but when I re-checked the service slip - nothing. This was originally in March.
The noise came back again recently so I had a different dealer check it out when I finally had the fuel tank recall done. They confirmed the noise and checked the heat shield (I had told them about the original complaint), but said there wasn't much that can be done - they made sure all the bolts were tight, but the noise was coming from the heat shield "flexing."
Most of the time it's fine and the noise went away for several months. It's subtle again, but if it becomes constant - it seems like I have a valid argument to have the heat shield replaced - seems defective.
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Installed ST coilovers at 2200 miles, my only suspension mod. When I'm backing up or going at really slow speeds and turning there is a very annoying creaking/grinding noise. I've taken everything apart and looked at it again to no avail. Anything I should be looking for in specific?Could it be from over-tightening? Just thought I'd ask here before I take it to a shop.
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I have a 2012 gti with 29k miles. Now I changed to coil overs for a shot amount of time however I shortly went back to stock for comfort. For the past few thousand miles I have been getting this creaking sound when turning left parked or slow speeds. I thought it might be strut mounts but its only left and isn't a clunking. I have three videos of the sounds so you can see what I'm talking about. I have heard of the infamous cv boot problem but if you look at the last video you can see the Cv boot looks in good shape..
Squeaking (my car)
Cv boot condition
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I have a 03 mkIV 2.0 with just over 106k miles. I have been noticing a sqeak/creaking noise coming from the front end usually at slow speeds and going over small bumps or even bad backroads. I can simply push down on the front of the car and hear it and it sounds just terrible. I took it to my local tire shop and they said it could be my sway bay links and bushings, but they look brand new and show no signs of deterioration. My struts and shocks are fine. Could it be ball joints or control arms?
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 liter DOHC. I am getting a metallic rattling sound from under the car. The sound happens only at certain RPM idling speeds; what could this be?
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I've noticed that when I take right or left turns at slow speeds I hear a series of clunks. Sounds like a pipe rolling in the bed. Guessing it has something to do with the rear springs??
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I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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Usually happens after car is warmed up. Rattles only while stopped and transmission still in drive. If I shift into Neutral or Park, rattling stops.
Last time I had a problem similar to this, dealer said it was a heat shield making the noise and they said they removed the heat shield (didn't specify what the heat shield was for.
Now I'm wondering if the heat shield was removed, what else this could be now...planning on taking it in in a few days.
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
See more at: [URL] ....
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My R32 has got about 9,400mi on it, and for the past 3k miles or so, i've been dealing with this metallic scraping/rattling noise coming from underneath the car. When I took it to the dealer, they said it was the exhaust flex pipe, so they replaced it under warranty. Next day after picking the car up, same noise. So i took it in again this morning and they are saying its the flex pipe again, and they don't know if it is fixable.
They are talking to VW tech assistance, and trying to figure something out. I really love this car, but if VW says there is no fix for it, I'm weary about possible future issues without fixes too. Apparently it has something to do with the length of the flex pipes and the material its made out of. He was saying one possible solution is stiffer engine mounts. We'll see where this goes.
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I have a 2012 GTI Autobahn, w/automatic, bought it w 7k miles on it and it was chipped. It runs great and is crazy fast. But, it has a lag in acceleration SOMETIMES when moving and coasting slow in traffic and then pouncing on the accelerator to change lanes, the accelerator is flat like its not getting fuel. It wouldn't do it when the dealer mechanic drove it.
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At low speeds, turning the steering wheel I hear a creaking sound similar to rubber on rubber. Sounds like skateboard trucks bushings how they creak. It's starting to get louder and is annoying. No damage to car just started one day and keeps going. Have to bring it to the dealer but the only good vw place around is an hour and a half away.
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So I recently traded in my '09 GTI for a 2012...and noticed that the same door 'creaking/rattling' sound is on the new one as was on the older model. This happens if I am turning a corner, entering a parking lot, etc. Not a huge deal, but annoying nonetheless.
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I have this subtle creaking noise while steering to the left at low speeds, i.e. getting in/out of a parking spot. I have H&R Street coils and haven't had this problem until recently. I brought it into a mod-friendly dealer and they said it's the factory sway bar rubbing up against the coil-overs. They recommended going with a compatible H&R front sway bar. Are they positioned differently? Maybe I'm missing something.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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So my car has been at the dealer this week for the 4th day. I have a whining/whirring noise from the rear of the car at cruising speeds of 70mph that goes away with a little throttle and comes back when coasting or at enough throttle to maintain speed. Car must be warmed up to hear it. I know this has been documented on the forum a few times with some getting "it is normal" responses while other have had the diff replaced. They are still diagnosing this but I am not expecting much. I did have the 30k service about 5k miles ago.
Second issue is a creaking noise from steering when stopped or a parking lot speeds. Mostly heard in quarter turns of the wheel. Sounds like it is coming from the column but not really audible from outside. This one the dealer says is normal. Manager says a new MKVII GYI does the same. I haven't verified this yet.
Last, my RNS-315 intermittently does crazy things with my iPhone 6 while listening to music through Bluetooth: Sometimes it will freeze up but I can change to radio and sometimes it will play music through a phone call. Meaning the phone icon is up as if I were on a call with music playing but I can't hang up! I think they are ordering a new head unit.
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OK, when I first got the car in June it needed strut mounts so I got the 034's and new bearings and all was good, recently I noticed just a creaking/knocking type noise, not the same as before. So I checked the bolts on the mounts just in case and they are good. Been reading lately about the subframe and it is leading me to believe that may be it. The noise is more noticeable at slower speeds when just going over slight road imperfections(like small dips) and sometimes I do not hear it at all even over rough roads?
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I was wondering if the wind noise problem and the door creaking are both problems resulting from the doors on the 2-door models? I only ask because I'm about to go in for my 3-month courtesy check and wanted to get it checked out.
My doors creak a lot and it really annoys me when I drive at low speeds with the radio off. The wind noise isn't that big but I do notice that there is a lot of wind noise coming from my sunroof rather than my windows/door.
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Ok so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
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My truck starts sounding off like a foghorn at slow speeds and idle, goes away as soon as you tap the gas pedal. The truck is all stock. 2004 5.4L ....
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