Celica :: 1993 Toyota Power Lag After Warmed Up
Mar 4, 2016
I have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I have a 1993 Toyota Celica GT I removed the strut tower to replace the upper tower mount and replaced the wheel bearing. my problem is that when i torque the axle nut tight the tire can be moved by pushing it up or down.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm with about 120,000 miles, it recently developed a problem where once it is warmed up, it will not start. It starts right up when it is cold first thing in the morning, but once I drive it for 15-20 minutes, if I shut it off, and then turn the key to restart it, nothing happens, no crank, maybe just a small hum. I took it to my mechanic and he cleaned the battery connection and thought it had fixed it, but the next day it did the same thing. Also, it runs fine until it gets shut off, even if I leave it running for hours, it runs fine until I turn it off and then it will not start again for about an hour.
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152000 miles. Religious oil changes at 3000 miles. New plugs before this started.Drove about 60 miles on a warm day. Ran fine. Went to start it again, it seemed to be running on only 5 of 6 cylinders. Carefully limped it home. It did not overheat (stayed at normal temp) and the engine never died. The next day I pulled each spark plug and had a look. They all looked fine, none looked fouled. The dead cylinder was not obvious. Started it up, it ran great. This was an even hotter day, drove off to do errands. Probably drove 5 miles. Stopped, and when I started it up again, the miss was back! Went home, and while it was still running crummy, tried running it with one plug disconnected from the coilpack at a time, until I found the one that it didn't seem to matter if it was connected or not... cylinder #2. Later pulled that plug again, fine. Plug wire measure about 5K ohms on my meter, as its the shortest one. Sounds about right to me.
Today (its about 75 degrees) I bought a new coil pack and put it in. Ran beautifully. Warmed the car up, still ran nice. drove a few miles down to the freeway, ran great, got off at next exit. Proceed to run just perfect until I was slowing down for a light, then the miss came back.
Beyond checking the compression, what else might I try? I don't tolerate mechanics BTW, I do everything myself.
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I have a 1993 dodge ram 15 passenger van. When it is cold, it runs fine, but after it warms up it starts to miss on the 6th cylinder. We have checked the plug and wires. Did not get anywhere. We replaced the injector. No dice.
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My 1993 Geo Prizm (with 275,000 miles on it) makes an awful high pitched screeching noise when I first start my car in the morning. The noise goes away once I am in second or third gear and is completely gone when my car is warmed up. It used to just happen in the winter and now it also happens during the summer. I had all my belts replaced maybe 6 years ago. Is this a problem of loose belts or bad power steering pump. Looking at the pump when I'm turning the wheel it seems as though the power steering pump belt stops turning. I also have crunching noises comes from, I think, my wheels when I turn sharply. What could this noise be? Time for a new car??!!!
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I have a 1992 Celica 2.2. I've been having trouble with it starting after it has warmed up. I will go to start it and it will only crank but I can let it cool down normally like an hour and it will start up fine. I have replaced the ignition coil, fuel filter, spark plugs. And have checked the fuses and the distributor and they are fine. I wonder if its the actual fuel pump but I am no sure.
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I have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
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My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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Recently while driving my 93 Toyota Pickup 22RE, I experienced a loss of power. It is equipped with a 5 speed manual transmission and a 22RE engine. The engine has about 165K on it. I am aware that it could be a timing chain, or additionally, there is a sensor in the air intake that I have heard could be the problem. Also, if it is a timing chain, what are the chances of engine damage?
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Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
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I have a 91 Celica that has a strange transmission problem. She hates the cold weather. No joke, she drives GREAT in the warm weather. But when its cold, she refuses to change into the highest gear until she feels like she's warmed up enough. But even then, she will randomly downshift again (all other things like speed, elevation, etc. constant.) When that happens, the RPMs (obviously) jump up. I always try to slow down when that happens, and eventually (5-7 minutes later) she shifts back into the appropriate gear.
I've owned it less than two years and have done A LOT of work on it. I am hoping to upgrade with a vehicle from a family member, and actually have the Celica for sale (and I hate selling cars......I don't think $1400 is too much for her!) Only 133,000 miles as she sat for a LONG time before I got her. I got all the kinks worked out except this transmission issue. Everyone I've talked to is stumped. And other than the "cold" issue, she shifts beautifully. I've been told to NOT flush or change the fluid at this point, so I haven't done that, but it's full.
I don't know if it's related, but the temperature gauge very rarely makes it off the 'C' mark. Sometimes when I'm idling it will climb to a whopping 15-20%, but generally it lives at or below the 'C.' I have never seen it at or above 50%.
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What this thing is on the top of my power steering pump? It has 2 vacuum hoses going to it, "is it some sort of booster"? Fluid is leaking from this thing and I don't know if it can be tightened or replaced.
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The motor turns over but it just don't seem to have enough power to start. Have not tried to arc check from the plug wires. I believe the coil is internal on this model.
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1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
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While raising both front doors windows, both windows stopped moving. Checked power locks and they didn't work either. Manual said to reset circuit breaker for this problem but where it's located and the manual doesn't specify either. Just need to know where the circuit breaker for the power windows and locks is located.
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My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
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