I have a 1992 Celica 2.2. I've been having trouble with it starting after it has warmed up. I will go to start it and it will only crank but I can let it cool down normally like an hour and it will start up fine. I have replaced the ignition coil, fuel filter, spark plugs. And have checked the fuses and the distributor and they are fine. I wonder if its the actual fuel pump but I am no sure.
View 3 RepliesI have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
View 14 Replies'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
View 3 Replies'92 Camry 5S-FE 4cyl 2.2L A/T; This one has me puzzled. Runs well, newer ignition parts, but does not start when warmed up to OpTemp. Starts fine cold, restarts when warm after 5-10 minute cool down (is not overheating). Will start hot if starting fluid is injected into throttle body, so problem is unlikely spark, it has to be fuel, right? Just ran SeaFoam thru top end as I was advised it could have been carbon build up, but that did not fix. Got some carbon burn off, but hot start issue remained.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump and filter both replaced less than a year ago. I have basic tools, but not much more than a Multimeter for test equipment.
The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
I have a 91 Celica that has a strange transmission problem. She hates the cold weather. No joke, she drives GREAT in the warm weather. But when its cold, she refuses to change into the highest gear until she feels like she's warmed up enough. But even then, she will randomly downshift again (all other things like speed, elevation, etc. constant.) When that happens, the RPMs (obviously) jump up. I always try to slow down when that happens, and eventually (5-7 minutes later) she shifts back into the appropriate gear.
I've owned it less than two years and have done A LOT of work on it. I am hoping to upgrade with a vehicle from a family member, and actually have the Celica for sale (and I hate selling cars......I don't think $1400 is too much for her!) Only 133,000 miles as she sat for a LONG time before I got her. I got all the kinks worked out except this transmission issue. Everyone I've talked to is stumped. And other than the "cold" issue, she shifts beautifully. I've been told to NOT flush or change the fluid at this point, so I haven't done that, but it's full.
I don't know if it's related, but the temperature gauge very rarely makes it off the 'C' mark. Sometimes when I'm idling it will climb to a whopping 15-20%, but generally it lives at or below the 'C.' I have never seen it at or above 50%.
Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
My 2000 Toyota MR2 started to act up a bit lately.
I noticed that the car cranks fine, but turns over very weak. almost seems like it barely starts. This happens ONLY when the car is already warmed up. This does not happen when car is starting from cold start. Like, starting first time in the morning is fine, but after 10 minutes of driving, then turned off, the subsequent starts are weak as a fart from a butterfly. But it does start, and when it does... it seems to drive okay.
Now, I've been hearing it can be leaky fuel injectors, or... Mass Air Flow sensor, .. or .... bad fuel pressure..(which may be part of leaky injectors?)
I have a 1992 celica 2.2. Its had been running fine till this summer. I go and start it up this morning and drive a mile or so turn the car off go take care of some stuff letting it sit for about and hour and a half. Start it back up then go to drive off and it dies and won't start back up. I let it sit for an hour and then it started back up and drove fine.
I have replaced the spark plugs, and the ignition coil inside the distributor and checked for codes but got none.
I starts fine on the first start of the day but after that it doesn't want to start.
My 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
I just bought this little car. It ticks at an idle and it burns 1/4 qt of oil a month. It doesn't stop ticking when I add oil so Im at a loss.. It isn't a loud tick either. It has 200,000 miles on it but it is in great condition besides this.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
I have a 92 celica gt with a 2.2 and I got it on the road and the next day it wouldn't start just kept turning over and not firing and it flooded itself I plugged in the block heater and about 20 to 30 minutes later it started no problem and now 3 days later I'm having the same problem but can't plug it in because it's at my work..... what it might be????
View 9 RepliesShade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
View 1 RepliesFan works and the ad button lights up but my rpms don't go up and the air doesn't get cold.
View 3 RepliesIt's a 1992 Celica, GTS 2.2L for reference.
After driving down the highway I noticed my temp fluctuated from half way to full and bounced around until I arrived at the closest Canadian Tire/Station. I looked under the hood and noticed the stain on the coolant container wasn't the actual level of coolant. I then topped off the coolant and parked the car for about a week. When I tried to start her up, I was faced with a weak and poor idle. Almost as if the car is struggling to run. I have had times in the recent years in the summer months were I felt I had to pump the pedal on really hot days to kickstart her so she would run. Was this a warning sign? Other than this problem I face, the car runs smooth. I did a good tune up 2 years back, replacing the ignition coil, plugs, etc..
The idle goes from 0 - 500RPM in neutral and when I apply gas it struggles to gain power. The car is parked, I don't dare to take her around the block. It stutters and seems like she is struggling to get fuel. I say that because, when the key is turned to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump underneath the back seat activate. I did try jumping the terminals, something like B+ and FP.... The pump turned on and I heard fuel but when I started the car, I still had the same problem. I would need to pump gas or she would stall out. I do not know where the fuel line is to try and check the pressure or even where the relay is located.
Could it be the Fuel Pump?
Could it be the Fuel Pump Relay?
Something Else?
My guess is the Fuel Pump, but if you could take a few mins and replay that would be great. I have had my Celica for about 7 years and I would like to keep her going!
I've had this noise on my 92 GT since I bought the car and it hasn't got any worse but I still am wondering what it is in case it's something serious. I hear a rattle/clatter coming from the engine or thereabouts, and it only happens under load (doesn't have to be heavy load, but I can't hear it in neutral or when the clutch is disengaged). It only happens above around 3000 rpm and the frequency of the rattle corresponds to the engine rpm. It's difficult to pinpoint the location of it because it only happens under load. Anyway, I made a short video of it and uploaded it to YouTube....
View 8 RepliesTemp knob is turned full to hottest setting and heat only blows warm. I checked the hose from the IACV and hose from just past the Thermostat housing and they are also hot. Where the hose enters the "Damper" just outside the firewall, it is hot but the small portion of hose after the damper into the firewall is only moderately warm. Is it possible that damper is clogged or is the heating coil iside the car clogged?
View 4 RepliesI have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Malibu which started playing up a year ago just after I bought it. The starting became harder and harder the warmer she got, this became worse over time to the point the battery drained completely and the thing wouldn't start. A jump got it going but the battery wasn't charging from the alternator. Replacement battery and alternator solved this first problem, I thought.
Five months later she starts getting harder and harder to start again. This time I got to the mall 2 miles from home, stopped to shop, got back in and she was dead. Ok, slap on the charger...nothing. Ok, called Son and slapped the jump leads on, nothing. Called tow truck who also tried a jump, nothing. I'm wondering starter, solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, ECM, what!?
The other problem is, when it drives, around 28000 revs it hunts and dips up and down around 28000 revs. Also revving to 4000 it dies, but picks back up again and revs, hits 4000 dies and so on. Lastly, often when sitting at lights she fluctuates around 7000 revs and occasionally dies.