Toyota - Celica :: 1992 GT Won't Go Into Gear Occasionally
Mar 2, 2014
I have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
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I have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
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It's a 1992 Celica, GTS 2.2L for reference.
After driving down the highway I noticed my temp fluctuated from half way to full and bounced around until I arrived at the closest Canadian Tire/Station. I looked under the hood and noticed the stain on the coolant container wasn't the actual level of coolant. I then topped off the coolant and parked the car for about a week. When I tried to start her up, I was faced with a weak and poor idle. Almost as if the car is struggling to run. I have had times in the recent years in the summer months were I felt I had to pump the pedal on really hot days to kickstart her so she would run. Was this a warning sign? Other than this problem I face, the car runs smooth. I did a good tune up 2 years back, replacing the ignition coil, plugs, etc..
The idle goes from 0 - 500RPM in neutral and when I apply gas it struggles to gain power. The car is parked, I don't dare to take her around the block. It stutters and seems like she is struggling to get fuel. I say that because, when the key is turned to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump underneath the back seat activate. I did try jumping the terminals, something like B+ and FP.... The pump turned on and I heard fuel but when I started the car, I still had the same problem. I would need to pump gas or she would stall out. I do not know where the fuel line is to try and check the pressure or even where the relay is located.
Could it be the Fuel Pump?
Could it be the Fuel Pump Relay?
Something Else?
My guess is the Fuel Pump, but if you could take a few mins and replay that would be great. I have had my Celica for about 7 years and I would like to keep her going!
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I just bought a 92 Toyota Celica for something to play around with. It's got just over 200,000 miles and everything seems to run alright except there is a really rough vibration at idle. The vibration is so bad that it's almost visible. You can still feel the vibration in drive but it isn't nearly as bad.
Any clue at what could be causing the vibration? I'll try to get a sound clip or video uploaded ....
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Alright so I got a 92 toyota Celica 2.2 5SFE recently and guy before did a head gasket.. well i started to work on the car. fix things here and there. well one issue I cam across was low compression.. 170 170 30 90.. so i was like ok the guy didnt do it right.. took it apart. found out valves were stuck open. So i ordered a remmaned cylinder head to put in and new head gasket set etc.. replaced all gaskets that came with it..
Also put in remanned fuel injectors due to one leaking so i just replaced em all. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, followed the oem manual word for word to install and remove and timing is right. But I got it all back together and ran great. until my tps went out(replacing that soon). Compression is now 180 across the board.
Now I got a knocking issue, Its quite apparent at idle/ low rpm.. solid sound, goes away at higher rpms, gets plenty of oil to cylinder head, started bout 150 miles after finishing. Im not sure where to start.
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My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
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My 1980 Toyota Celica (5 speed, R20) is backfiring a little when idling and also more if I am trying to slow down by using 3rd or 2nd gear - engine braking. So far I changed dist. cap & rotor, wires, spark plugs, muffler, all fluids... and it's still happening.
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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I have a 98 Celica GT convertible that had suddenly lost fifth gear, and what I mean by loosing fifth gear is not that it pops out of fifth or that it will not go into fifth, the gear shift lever goes into the fifth gear position just fine and stays in that position, yet the car responds as if it is in neutral. This is what happened while driving home recently. The first time this happened was within a week or so of having my clutch replaced, so I took it back to the mechanic that replaced my clutch.
Upon investigation he found that the nut that holds fifth gear in was loose. He tightened this nut and it fixed the problem for awhile. This was now over two years ago, and to make a long story short, I eventually ended up having to replace that transmission with another used transmission from a salvage yard. The current transmission has been in the vehicle just over a year and a half with no problems until now. I am getting this same problem again, with no fifth gear.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
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I own a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS 4-speed automatic, 24,600 original miles. The car is maybe 11 / 12 years old now. I've noticed that in extremely cold Wisconsin weather it takes a while for my car to shift into fourth gear. It kind of hangs onto third and then eventually shifts into fourth at about 40 - 45 miles per hour. Not sure if that's anything to be alarmed about or not. Drives fine and shifts smooth in warmer weather. I am the second owner. I am going to assume the original owner never changed the transmission fluid, or for that matter, never had a reason to. I purchased the car several years ago. So... is slow shifting enough to change the fluid? Or age of the fluid anything to worry about?
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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I took my 2001 Toyota Celica GT in to have the engine re-built due to a connecting rod that was ready to blow. I have taken it back to them four times. First time not dropping into 4th gear car is automatic stays stuck at 3RPMs. Said it was a transmission problem. I said didn't have one when I came in and not having one on my way out.
Nothing wrong with transmission. Said they fixed whatever they came up with and still car not dropping into 4th gear and my hood shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral to stop the shaking/vibrating at every stop sign and red light. Said they changed out the non-detergent oil for thirty weight and the shaking stopped for a minute.
I told them the third time I brought it back that the hood was still shaking, still not dropping into 4th gear. I checked my oil and fluids a day later and found no oil in my car and the tip of my dip stick was black. No coolant in the car either. I told them that this car needs special spark plugs or it will run like it needs a tuneup with no power. I was pissed.
They said that I had two broken motor mounts and the engine wasn't sitting correctly and that is what was causing the the shake and the 4th gear from dropping down. I was astounded..... They replaced the motor mounts and the spark plugs. When I drove it home it drove great. I even took it out to the river to make sure it was running great because I am selling this car and they knew I was selling it.
My buyer took it to Toyota of Orange and had a test done on the car to the tune of $120.00. It came back with upper and lower power steering hoses leaking and that I needed a new power steering pump. And wait for it.... a new head gasket!!!!
Which tells me they never rebuilt my engine, they just fixed the connecting rod. I took the report into them from Toyota and told them that I want everything fixed on this report and I want my car back in three days or I will take you to court.
I talked to the owner today to ask him when my car would be ready and he said by tonight that he had replaced the head gasket. Which still doesn't tell me if they rebuilt the whole engine. I told him I wanted the power steering pump and hoses fixed as well or I would report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair. With the engine vibrating and jumping all over the place couldn't that have caused the power steering pump and hoses to be damaged? And am I within my rights to make them fix these at no charge as well?
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I have a 1992 celica 2.2. Its had been running fine till this summer. I go and start it up this morning and drive a mile or so turn the car off go take care of some stuff letting it sit for about and hour and a half. Start it back up then go to drive off and it dies and won't start back up. I let it sit for an hour and then it started back up and drove fine.
I have replaced the spark plugs, and the ignition coil inside the distributor and checked for codes but got none.
I starts fine on the first start of the day but after that it doesn't want to start.
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My 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
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I just bought this little car. It ticks at an idle and it burns 1/4 qt of oil a month. It doesn't stop ticking when I add oil so Im at a loss.. It isn't a loud tick either. It has 200,000 miles on it but it is in great condition besides this.
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I have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
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I have a 92 celica gt with a 2.2 and I got it on the road and the next day it wouldn't start just kept turning over and not firing and it flooded itself I plugged in the block heater and about 20 to 30 minutes later it started no problem and now 3 days later I'm having the same problem but can't plug it in because it's at my work..... what it might be????
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Fan works and the ad button lights up but my rpms don't go up and the air doesn't get cold.
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I've had this noise on my 92 GT since I bought the car and it hasn't got any worse but I still am wondering what it is in case it's something serious. I hear a rattle/clatter coming from the engine or thereabouts, and it only happens under load (doesn't have to be heavy load, but I can't hear it in neutral or when the clutch is disengaged). It only happens above around 3000 rpm and the frequency of the rattle corresponds to the engine rpm. It's difficult to pinpoint the location of it because it only happens under load. Anyway, I made a short video of it and uploaded it to YouTube....
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I have a 1992 Celica 2.2. I've been having trouble with it starting after it has warmed up. I will go to start it and it will only crank but I can let it cool down normally like an hour and it will start up fine. I have replaced the ignition coil, fuel filter, spark plugs. And have checked the fuses and the distributor and they are fine. I wonder if its the actual fuel pump but I am no sure.
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