what's causes the "vsc/trac" warning light and "vsc off" indicator light come on and off, together with the "brake" warning light while i'm driving?
View 4 RepliesIn my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
View 11 Replies2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2009 LE. I found that the indicators for Low engine oil pressure warning, Charging system warning, and Malfunction/Check Engine are on when the engine switch at "On" and goes off after engine is started. Is this normal or something is wrong with the car?
View 2 Replies2010 Prius V owner as of last week. All has been going well and got into the car this morning and all of the above noted lights are on at start-up and stay on as I drive. Have made appointment with the dealer but they cannot get me in until late next week. I did make a short drive this morning and all seemed fine with handling and braking. Searched a few threads here and answers are very varied and none that I saw had all of above lights on. I don't think that it is the Hill Start Assist. Safe to drive until we can get into the dealership?
View 14 RepliesI've got some issues with my 2005 Toyata Prius (~150,000 miles). My wife was driving recently and the "Master Warning Light", the "Hybrid System Warning Light" and the yellow "Brake System Warning Light" all came on.
Some quick reading of the owners manual said we should take it to a dealer right away, but because it was a yellow, and not red, brake system warning light it seems ok to drive at least to a dealer. in regard to the yellow brake system light the manual said it could be that: "the regenerative brake system failed or that the hydraulic brake system failed".
Now, I have a cheap bluetooth OBD reader hooked up to the "torque" app on my phone and I thought I would try to see what error codes there were to learn more. But strangely, it did not read any fault codes. I've used this reader successfully on my 2001 Mitsubishi galant, but I'm not reading anything for the prius in this case. I'm not sure if there is legitimately no error code associate with the warning lights or if my app is just failing to read them for some reason.
I was driving in 4wd this weekend and when I tried to get out of 4wd the center light won't go out. My truck also won't turn "tight " turns like its "stuck". How do I get this light to go out? We tried what the owners manual said and it didn't work.Will this hurt the truck to drive it like this????
View 1 RepliesI just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
View 4 RepliesLast night I was driving my '99 Passat when suddenly I heard this loud alarm in my car. Quickly looking down I saw what I think were my ABS and brake indicator lights on. It happened so fast, maybe less than a second and everything was back to normal.
I was driving on dry pavement on country roads at about 60 mph. Outside temp was 37 and there were major gusts of wind, maybe 40 mph or so. Vehicle has about 115,000 miles on it.
Checked my manual and it said to have it checked.
Last night I was driving my '99 Passat when suddenly I heard this loud alarm in my car. Quickly looking down I saw what I think were my ABS and brake indicator lights on. It happened so fast, maybe less than a second and everything was back to normal.
I was driving on dry pavement on country roads at about 60 mph. Outside temp was 37 and there were major gusts of wind, maybe 40 mph or so. Vehicle has about 115,000 miles on it. Checked my manual and it said to have it checked.
Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
2003 W8 70,000 miles. ABS ,ESP and EPC warning/indicator lights are on and i dont have any brake lights--what can be wrong and how much to fix?
View 2 RepliesMy "Check Brake Pad" sign lit up yesterday. I check the pads with out taking the wheels off around. I am still on OEM original rotors and brake pads. The car has 35,000 miles.
Both rears looks fine with about 3/16" left the fronts right side and left side has the lowest at 1/8". Do you think i can still use the rotor one more time before i replace them or should i replace them with the pads?
my much adored 2006 prius just got three warning lights as i was driving and slowing down at a light. The big red triangle- "Master Warning", the Brake System Warning, and also, the Hybrid System Warning. It was like warning lights galore... i'll bring it into the dealership first thing tomorrow, but any clue what's going on? I regularly maintain it. The only other thing that ever went wrong with my car is that the touchscreen quit working years ago, and i refused to spend the 3k for them to connect a silly wire. Why my lights went on and is this something serious?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Camry with electrical problems that started showing up recently. One day the check battery light turned on and about 15 minutes later the AC would lose power intermittently. After parking the vehicle that day I tried to start up and only heard a rapid clicking sound. I exchanged the battery since it was still under warranty and everything seemed to work fine for one whole day. The next day the battery light turned on again, followed by the ABS warning light, and then the airbag warning light. Within about 5 minutes the dashboard back light started flickering and other warning lights started lighting up randomly. Within a minute of that the car shutoff and would not start back up again.
View 2 RepliesYellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
View 1 RepliesSo my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
ECU is going crazy, throwing all fault codes. When I turn on my car, it starts up and runs fine but the instrument panel goes crazy and all warning indicator lights come and a flash, I even get a stop message where screen is in the middle.
View 10 RepliesI was on the highway yesterday when the red triangle went off and the screen said Problem. I babied my 2008 Prius to the dealer. They said the 12v battery was bad. I should have just gotten the yellow top in last week like I wanted but oh well. Here is the problem, today it did it again. It first happened at 70 mph but today it did it first at 15 mph then pretty much stayed on until I did not accelerate for a while. No noticeable performance issues, just the warning indicator. I did notice the noises after shutdown are sounding different than before last week. I also put a code reader on it both without running and on a test drive and no codes showed. What is going on?
More info: Just hit 100,250 miles. Purchased on March 17, 2008. Went in last week before the 100,000 miles for a check up and ended up with $1,000 for a coolant pump (both now, other coolant pump was replaced within the last 6 months). Also got: break fluid, belt, break alignment, oil change, tires (this I was expecting hardly passed state inspection in March), possibly something else.
I have been doing the oil changes since 15,000 miles, filters, pcv (or pvc whichever), all normal items. Problem free until I have them do a check now issues. So to recap non normal items done: blower motor in 2009, radio replacement in 2008, coolant pump in Mayish, other coolant pump and 12 v battery last week. Read more : [URL] ....
What would cause me to have to replace several of the same ignition coils in less than two years time? It seems like it always happens after I purchase gas.
View 1 Replies