Toyota - Tercel :: 1997 - Temperature Gauge Always Up / Heater Blows Cold
Feb 13, 2013
I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
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I've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
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I have a 2003 Ford f150 5.4. Heater blows hot, then cold, then hot then cold. When it start blowing cold it pukes out the degas bottle. I have burped it, did the combustion test to make sure not a blown head gasket, the oil clean, there is moisture coming out tail pipe but it has no coolant in it. flushed heater core, pulled water pump off and checked it, its good. Changed thermostat 2 times, put front on ramps to get any air out. I am at a total loss now.
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Got a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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I have a dual zone climatronic in my 04, I just noticed it last night that regardless of what temperature setting the passenger side is in, it just blows cold air. Winter is fast approaching.
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i am having some big difficulties with my car i own a 2002 Lincoln LS v-8, has about 118,000 miles on it. when i bought the car USED the heater or ac didn't blow at all we fixed that all it was a fuse. But know that it is winter time the thing is my cars heater blowsn out cold air. ive noticed some times heat blows a little from the passenger side but not the driver and then if it does get warm (my car) its takes for ever. Know i dont really have a problem with the defrost becaseu in the mornings my windows are defrosted after like 20min. ive been reading alot about DCCV and i want to think thats the problem but i really dont know.
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When my car idles the heater blows cold air but as soon as i throtle it up or drive off it starts blowing warm air, just bought the car the only thing ive checked so far is the coolant level wich is fine.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited. Dual climate control issue. The passenger side blows cold air regardless of the temperature setting or mode. How to remedy this?
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I own a 2002 Grand AM GT. With the engine temperature reading around 200, and the heat set at maximum, frequently, for about a minute, I will get nothing but cold air. At maximum heat setting, on one day, there would be hot air. Yet, at another time the air output would be lukewarm.
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A friend has a 2003 F150 that after starting up will run hot but blow cold air when the heater is on. The truck will run hot for ~ 5seconds then all of a sudden the temp drops to normal range and the heater begins to blow hot. Simultaneously, the oil pressure light comes on when the truck runs hot, then falls to the normal range when the temp drops. I thought perhaps the thermostat is in backward.
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My 95 explorer heater only blows out cold air. I have topped off the antifreeze and just replaced the thermostat. The engine operating temperature is very cold, it won't even come up to the first mark. It is very cold here in Utah but I still can't imagine why the engine won't heat up.
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The heat up front blows nice and hot but no matter how I adjust the rear ceiling mounted controls it blows cold in the back. Is this a blend door issue or something with the rear controls? Also, on a side note, one of my rear power vent windows just stopped working too. I guess it's either the overhead switch or the motor back there.
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When I turn on the heater on at any temp and fan setting the A/C automatically turns on (compressor and condensor fan turns on) . Engine temp comes up and stays at 190. I can turn up the heat to HI and still cold air blows. All buttons and LEDs work on the climatronic, is it the climatronic that is bad?
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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I have a '99 F150 4.2 5 speed, my problem is, my heating isn't working. My A/C works fine, my blower motor does too, i changed my heater core about a year ago. I turn my truck on wait for it to warm up and once my gauge reads normal temp, i turn my control to the warm position but the air blows cold with just a very small hint of heat. I looked it up in my Chilton book and they said to check my hoses that go to the firewall/heater core. They say that both hoses should be hot and if one isn't to check it. i did that and the one on the left side(facing the truck) is barely warm. what could be my problem? heater core? my friend from Autozone said something about a vacuum control somewhere in the engine compartment but i don't know where it is, could that be a problem? Or would the flapper door be stuck?
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My 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
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