Toyota - Yaris :: Headlights Taking Turns Going Out
Jan 5, 2014
Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
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I wanted the pose the question here first to be more prepared when I bring my car into the shop this week. I just noticed the other day that my car is making a modest scraping noise when the car is making a hard right turn (like you would be making into a parking spot). It doesn't happen if you are just turning the wheel, the car must be moving. The sound does not seem to happen for left turns or when the car is going in reverse. I am leaning towards it sounding like it is coming from the front drivers side. The sound's speed is dependent upon how fast the car is moving...it sort of makes an spinning sound.
A few things to note about the car. It is a 2009 with 62,000 miles on it. It has been maintained religiously, following the manufacturers guidelines. I had service done on the car about 3 weeks ago (it is possible this sound has been around since then but the car doesn't get very much driving these days due to a carpool arrangement). The service done was: new tires and alignment, clean carbon build up off valves, rear drum brake adjustment (tightening and aligning I believe), transmission fluid replacement, and a new engine air filter. Could this be the result of the work done a few weeks back?
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I recently replaced my driver side axle due to the inner CV joint boot being ripped. Its a 2001 Jetta VR6 with 173,000 miles on it and I have been driving it with a ripped boot for about a year and finally decided to replace the whole axle last night. I replaced it with an aftermarket axle (was on a budget) and the job was fairly easy. Since I did it late at night I was too tired to take it for a test drive so I waited until today. When I was driving it all was well until I took a right turn and I could hear a very distinct clicking sound coming from the driver side wheel well, it is constant throughout the turn.
The noise is only present when taking turns above 20mph and it sometimes even occurs when driving in a straight line. Take note that I have not had an alignment done yet since I had replaced the axle. The car is lowered about 2 inches on Raceland coil-overs that are pretty old and I think they are shot. But like I said the car has NEVER made this sound until I just recently replaced the axle. I am at a loss of what it could be and I am trying to sell the car currently so I would like to get this problem sorted out as soon as possible!
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I have a 2006 Azera Limited, and over the past few months I have noticed that when driving it is dark, my headlights will dim drastically either when I brake under about 30 mph, or when I let up on the gas going around 30-35 mph. I can see the tach drop to below 500 rpm, and the interior lights will also dim. It frustrates me because I took it to the dealership yesterday to have them look at this, and they said they couldn't see anything wrong. They said there were no error codes, the alternator was fine, and the battery looked fine. They said "just keep an eye on it" when I picked it up yesterday.
This morning on my drive to work it happened about 5 times. It bugs me because I feel as if it is going to stall, and when the lights dim like that, I can't see!! It's usually brief - about a second or so - but still. What it would be, so when I take it back to them I can tell them what is going on? I love my Azera, but to be honest I don't know much about the inner-workings of cars, so where to start if I was to look at it myself. It seems electrical, but they assured me that nothing was wrong.
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New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
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Just noticed today, while taking slight right turns 20-40MPH, I get a really loud and angry chirping sounds? Its only right turns...It sounds like a forest of angry crickets.
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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Echo 2003 2 door
Running lights: OK
Headlight mode, the running light stay illuminated but the head lights don't come on and the high beam light illuminates.
It feels like a relay but I don't know where to start. Had to drive home in the dark with the moon light my way home. I'd prefer to not do that again.
Found two 10A fuses under the hood. Both blown
The connectors to the lights are corroded and strangely, covered in oil. I could not find an oil leak (Problem with previous owner?)
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra with about 57,000 miles and noticed that it takes more "push" to get the brakes to engage. (The brake pedal has to travel further towards the floor) There is no squealing or any other sounds and the brake fluid tank is almost full, I have not added any brake fluid or had any brake work done since I bought the truck in the fall of 2008. I am wondering what the problem could be and the possible cost involved to get it fixed. Brake Pads Wearing? Air Bubble? I'm not sure. This has been ongoing for about 3 weeks, but it doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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I've got a 2006 GS 300 and in automatic mode, when it turns on my low beam head lights, the driver's side does not turn on automatically. I have to manually turn off the lights then turn them back on and everything works fine. I have aftermarket ~5000K bulbs installed, Garax, I think (I assume they're real ones, I bought them from either XenonDepot or Nigel... can't remember). The bulbs are about 3.5 to 4 years old. Ballasts are the originals.
On a side note, I wasn't really impressed by the Garax. Might switch to Ultinons. Then again the stock 4300k sucked as well. I'd like to get some halfway decent lighting on this car without having to retrofit lenses.
The bulbs are not from XenonDepot or Nigel, they are from theretrofitsource.com (D4S: Morimoto XenGreen (XenGrnD4S) Kelvin 5000K). I don't think they are a quality product, IMO.
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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I've been wondering about this issue for about a year now. I haven't torn out the stereo to see if the wiring is jacked up (came with the truck). When I have the truck running and the radio is on I pull the light switch and the radio turns off, then turns back on...... The radio also buzzes when the truck is running, kind of like it has a bad ground but I've checked the grounds and powers and all is good.
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I have an 08 RAV4 that has an issue when turning left and right and sometimes when taking off from a rolling stop. It seems that the body and engine want to move but the tires do not. I have taken the vehicle to 4 mechanics including dealership and everyone says the transmission is fine, axles and joints are supposed to be fine as well as drive train. I currently have about 25000 miles left on a warranty and don't want to lose the use of the warranty.
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So, I don't know if any of these problems are related but a few months ago, I accidentally put diesel fuel in my car. We got it flushed out (used some fuel injector cleaner and filled the tank up to dilute what fuel was left after i siphoned it) and my car was doing fine. Then my car started running really shitty, just taking forever to accelerate, revving really hard when I gassed, but not going fast at all, so we changed the spark plugs, oil, and transmission fluid and now it drives forward just fine, but will not reverse. all it does is move forward a bit then stop. It will drive in neutral up to 20-25 mph. What might be wrong??
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We have noticed something strange with the dash in our new 2012 Prius. While driving at dusk and turning the headlights on the dash readout can go completely dark. Leaving only the gear selection indicator visible. This can be completely disorienting and dangerous. This happens if the dimmer wheel is set in the lowest position. It will turn back on if the dimmer wheel is moved up from the lowest setting.
I can recreate the issue parked by simply having the headlights on and dimming the switch all the way down. It will shut off the speedometer, MPGmeter, and Hyrbrid indicator screens.
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This is a weird problem. But now I have had the same thing happen with two different 2003 Pontiac Vibes so I am wondering what is going on! I have owned two 2003 Pontiac Vibes and both have had this same annoying experience. When it is extremely cold (this morning it is minus 8) the headlights turn on. Not the tailights, jut the headlights. Obviously this drains the battery (I have a charger on the car right now, and the headlights are still on!) Is there any way to stop this from happening, short of disconnecting the battery every night?
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there is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
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I bought a 2008 toyota yaris last year from the dealership when it was returned from a lease. It has been running really well, couldn't be happier with this little car. Weather is practically perfect, but today when I was leaving, I had trouble starting my car.
After turning the key for 2-3 seconds the car finally starts and once it starts is runs fine, no service lights come on, no issues with lights, no sputtering, no stalling. My Toyota dealership isn't open until tomorrow morning, but I have an appointment at 7am.
What this could be and if I drive the car anywhere else today (10/02/11) is there a risk I'll not be able to start it at all? And end up needed a tow?
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