Volvo - S40 :: 2001 - Car Won't Start Unless Give It Gas
Dec 18, 2012
I own a 2001 Volvo S40. At first I had a problem getting it to stay running on the first start. Before when I started the car it would stall the first or second time. Then I would give it a little gas, let off and it would bog down under 750 rpms then jump up to 750 and run fine. The car would start great afterwards as long as I started it within a few hours. If I let it sit overnight I would run into the same problem as mentioned before. That was then and this is now. The last time the car ran I noticed the car would not fully warm up. It was like 30 degrees outside and the fans only blew cold air. The temp gauge stayed on the cold side the whole ride home (roughly 35 miles).
The next day it was still about 30 degrees outside and when I went to start the car the car it stalled. I tried to start it again and gave it some gas but when I let off the gas pedal the car shut off. I tried again with the same results. The next time I keep my foot on the gas for a good minute. The car would rev up no problem but once I let off the gas the car would stall. I figured it was the cold weather. So the next it was beautiful (close to 60). I tried to start it again with the same results as the previous day. That was a few days ago. Since then, I've tried a few times but to no avail.
I bought the car with 108,000 miles on it from a dealer. Since then I've put about 17,000 miles on it and haven't done any maintenance to it. Absolutely none. No oil change, plugs, air filter, etc. I wanted to keep it to myself but am trying to be completely honest to ensure proper troubleshooting. I did check the oil level and it was ok. Also, I have about half a tank of gas in the tank. I believe it could be numerous issues.
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I have a 2003 Volvo S40. I just replaced the battery, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter along with a fuel system flush. Because the car was running very rough. It's been 4 days since i got it back from the shop and now my car won't start unless I give it gas. The car won't stay on and it smells like it's running very rich.
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I have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
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For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
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I have a 2001 Volvo V70 XC which won't remain on after I fill it up, and while cruising (but not accelerating!) on the highway, it will chug-chug-chug and gives a very jerky ride (confirmed with cruise control). This happens during 60-80 km/hr, but less so at 100-120 km/hr. After I fill the tank I have to rev the engine to get it to 'catch' - if I don't the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall.
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I have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
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Ok my car is tripping... been like this for a while, just never REALLY bugged me until lately... Example... I am at a light put it in first, have my foot on the gas... I slowly give it some gas.. rmps start to rise. NOW! without adding any pressure to gas, it kinda jolts or studers... happens for like a split second, and than the rpms continue top raise and i go into second... So now i just rev a bit and go quickly into second.
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I have a 2000 ranger 4.0l 4x4 automatic transmission 5r55e. When I put it in drive I don't have any problems except in do it starts jerking when I give gas. When I put it in reverse I can move but as soon as I give gas it stalls the engine tranny was sitting in another truck swapped it with mine I changed the filter and 5 1/2 quart of oil.
I when to a transmission shop plugged it inn no codes and he said he would changes all solenoid and valve body gasket but he's not sure what is the problem. So I started to take out valve body and notice the oil is darkish red and was wondering if it was normal or not and if I'm taking that valve body out for nothing or should still go ahead ...
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1999 Ford Triton V-10 engine, after changing Oxygen sensors, all vacuum hoses and Mass airflow sensor,(also replaced another sensor but can't think of the name of it right now) now I don't get the codes but engine will start and idle but if I give the engine gas it bogs down and stalls. Vehicle sat in my driveway for 3 months, I got it started and drove it once about 30 miles filled up my gas tank thinking gas could be stale, but now it will not run.
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I just got my car back from an accident and it immediately started leaking oil. They determined it was a cracked oil pan. They can either
1) weld it
2) replace it with a used one
3) replace it with a new one
I understand because it's foreign that it will be expensive but never saw this coming. I'm not quite sure what the best choice is for me to do. I would like to save money but don't want future problems with my volvo c70 2001.
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My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
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Last month my 2001 Volvo s60, just shy of 100K needed maintenance - i'm the original owner planned to have this car for many more years - let the dealer do 95K scheduled maintenance, new breaks, timing belt and more - for just until $4k. Yesterday my transmission stopped working. Dealer says $5500 to fix. Husband is done and wants to pull the plugs it worth fixing? Is this something dealer should have seen coming at last service?
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My 2001 S80 Volvo (91,000 miles) has a problem--when I put it in reverse, apply the gas, the car will not move. Sometimes if I shift back to park and then back to reverse, the car moves, but with a clunking sound and it feels as if the car just went over a small rock. At other times it will not move at all. I had a new transmission put in November and a week ago the car would not move out of my garage. A day later when I tried to reverse out of the garage, it did so without any noise or hesitation. The repair shop kept it again for 4 days, ran another bunch of tests and could find nothing. The car drives just fine on the road--still has great acceleration. The problem is driving me nuts--I am afraid to take it out at times as I don't know when it might not reverse. what is wrong with this car?
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 and yesterday, when I took out the HVAC unit out of the dash to try and change two small light bulbs (only had to remove 2 torx screws and unplug the unit), the SRS AIRBAG URGENT light went out. Needless to say, the airbags are fine. How can I get the airbag light off?
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On my daughter's 2001 S60, there are lights under each mirror. The bulbs appear to be okay.
When do these lights come on? I don't recall ever seeing them.
Just curious, while I go out tonight to investigate another Bulb Failure warning. :-( I know it won't be the mirror, but this does get tiresome!
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Is it possible to just change the Air Conditioner Clutch on the Air compressor for the volvo V70?it is rattling and all I can find online are new compressors.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 T5 Turbo with 145K on it, lately when at a stop, in Drive, my idle fluctuates, dipping below 1K RPM where it normally is, fluctuating between 500-1K RPM. Note the spark plugs have nearly 100K on them, but otherwise, car runs great (besides lots of oddball suspension noises)
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My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
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So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
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