I have a 2001 Volvo S60 T5 Turbo with 145K on it, lately when at a stop, in Drive, my idle fluctuates, dipping below 1K RPM where it normally is, fluctuating between 500-1K RPM. Note the spark plugs have nearly 100K on them, but otherwise, car runs great (besides lots of oddball suspension noises)
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado , have only had for a week and have noticed an irregular fluctuation in idle, also the transmission has lack of a better term jarred a few times and seems to downshift rough sometimes. The irregular idle seems to be worse when the ac is on, I can hear the compressor kick on and off alot. And just once I was driving and tried to accelerate and it didn't want to very much. Factory warranty is out and dealer didn't give option for extended warranty. They have agreed to look at it but aren't willing to do much other than clean injectors and throttle body.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
View 4 RepliesHow to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
View 2 RepliesMy car has been having idling issues for about a year now. While idling the RPMs oscillate between 1 krpm and almost 0, with a frequency of about one oscillation per second. That got worse over time, and it started dying while idling too. I ignored the problem because it wasn't that bad, until a few weeks ago it died about 7 times on a 2 mile trip. (I developed a technique of using my right foot to press the gas and the brake simultaneously so I could come to a stop while keeping the engine going. But that only gets you so far.) I took it to a garage, they said I probably need a new IACV. Instead of having them do it, I just bought one and put it in myself. I'm not an experienced mechanic, but this seemed fairly easy; I'm pretty sure I didn't screw it up.
So, now it's displaying almost the exact same symptoms. It's not oscillating like it was before, but it's still dying pretty frequently, only on idle. I'd like to know if there's anything else I can try before I take it back to the shop.
A little more information about my car:- Replaced the motor about a year and half ago, put a few thousand miles since then. I don't know what other parts were replaced as part of the motor, but probably not many considering what I've had to replace. - Since the motor replacement, I've had the following replaced: rear main seal, clutch, distributor, distributor again, and water pump- The odometer reads 223k miles, but I don't know how many miles the new motor has. - 1990 Honda Civic LX 1.5L
So my temperature gauge started fluctuating from low to mid-gauge reading and it does not matter if at idle or driving. It never goes above mid-range or reads hot. I have had my diagnostic tool connected while monitoring the ECT in real time and my temp reads 180-195. Also there are no codes and everything else is running normal.
I have searched other threads and the only thing that was mentioned was changing the temp sensor but they also had the issue where the diagnostic tool also showed the temp fluctuating.
Every time my car is idling I get this weird fluctuation of rpm. What it might be. [URL] .....
View 7 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Ford Escape Limited ( with a 30 day warranty). I have noticed when it is in park and idle, the tachometer fluctuates a little, between 500 and 1000 RPM's. When I was driving it tonight I also noticed that between 35-40 mph, the tachometer fluctuates up and down and the car seems to surge a little. I put it in cruise to make sure that I wasn't adding any pressure on the accelerator that I wasn't aware of and it still did it. ( Not sure if this problem could be tranny related, but I should note that I had the tranny flushed when I purchased it last week.)
View 13 RepliesTypically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
View 18 RepliesI just bought a 1995 Geo Tracker 5spd RWD 8valve 4 banger. Test drove beautifully (probably 10-15 mins driving). On the way home after purchasing it, however, it began having some issues, the most prominent being a fluctuation in rpm's when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. For instance, with the clutch pedal in, and the car between gears, when I push on the gas pedal, the rpm's will spike (guessing above 2000 rpm) and then drop (probably under 1000 rpm). It will only do this when gas is applied and when the vehicle is warmed up (10+ mins of driving). It will also do this in first gear when letting off on the throttle. I have been told a various array of parts that could be the problem, such as the thermo gauge, the IAC, tps........the list goes on and on. I was wondering if there were any way to pin point this to a certain part.
View 1 RepliesI've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with the Infinity sound system.
Last night driving home there was a split-second power pop/fluctuation in my center console. The lights and sound turned off for a split-second. I didn't notice if this also happened with my driving console or exterior lighting system, but the wife seems to think that it was only the centre console.
I have a 2007 S60 FWD 2.5T. My mechanic told me that at some point, I had an oil leak from my rear camshaft seals. After doing some research, I checked my oil dip stick and at idle, I could see white smoke coming out of it.
Looks like I need a new PCV Valve. I did some research online and a bunch of vendors sell the PCV kits. [URL] ....
Can I just replace the breather box and the associated parts in this kit or do I also need to change the Crankcase Vent Hose ? [URL] ....
Also, since this is going to be a pretty expensive job (with removal of intake manifold etc), are there any other things I should be looking to replace? Car has 115K miles.
The condition is the vehicle has a hard start condition after it has run (warmed up) and sat for a short period of time (10-15 minutes). I replaced Thermo Time Switch this weekend. The condition still exists.
I checked the voltage to the cold start valve after the Thermo Time Switch was installed. It briefly went to 8.5, then 9 (all in less than one second) then back to zero (not O.L)
The fuel check valve was serviced in 12/2006.
Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
View 2 RepliesWe have an 04 Volvo V40 which won't idle when it's cold out, especially at altitude. Not all the time- it seems to be somewhat random, but it is getting more frequent. Our mechanic has replaced the MAP and TCV sensors and that didn't make any difference. What to try next? It recently passed an emissions test, so when it idles, it runs fine.
View 6 RepliesToday my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
View 7 RepliesA friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and Porsche Piwis Tester II a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
View 1 Replies760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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