Geo :: 1995 - Fluctuation In RPMs When Pressure Is Applied On Gas Pedal
Oct 25, 2011
I just bought a 1995 Geo Tracker 5spd RWD 8valve 4 banger. Test drove beautifully (probably 10-15 mins driving). On the way home after purchasing it, however, it began having some issues, the most prominent being a fluctuation in rpm's when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. For instance, with the clutch pedal in, and the car between gears, when I push on the gas pedal, the rpm's will spike (guessing above 2000 rpm) and then drop (probably under 1000 rpm). It will only do this when gas is applied and when the vehicle is warmed up (10+ mins of driving). It will also do this in first gear when letting off on the throttle. I have been told a various array of parts that could be the problem, such as the thermo gauge, the IAC, tps........the list goes on and on. I was wondering if there were any way to pin point this to a certain part.
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I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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I'm the only owner. Since new the rear brakes have never generated even a fraction of the dust of the front brakes. I have replaced the front and rear pads but never had the rotors turned. The rotors aren't perfectly smooth but they don't have any deep ruts.
Anyway, my brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. And the rear brakes squeak randomly when braking even though there are new pads. I always felt they squeaked because there is not much braking power in the rear.
My Durango stops okay. I'm worried about catastrophic failure because of the vibrating.
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So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder and the ABS light comes on intermittently. Not only does the light come on, but sometimes when I apply the brakes, the brake pedal makes a grinding, vibrating sound that I can hear and feel under my foot, and feels as if the brake pedal is going to go all the way to the floorboard. If I quickly pump the brake, it stops that sound and the brake works fine.
I have taken the car to O'Rileys and Firestone and they put it on the analyzer. Two codes come up which indicate that the right front ABS was bad and/or an open circuit. I replaced the ABS sensor, but the problem described above persists. I took it back to Firestone and the same codes displayed. Firestone said it was an open circuit and that I should take it to the Toyota Dealer. I called the Dealer and they want $135 to analyze the car. They won't tell me what they will do in the analysis. I also took it to Just Brakes and they kept it for 3 days and could not or did not do much other than suggest I take it to the Dealership. I have read that the Dealership will probably say the ABS computer needs to be replaced ($1,000). I have also read that the 2007 Camry Hybrid ABS brake system has been recalled, although my Camry is NOT the hybrid.
There has had two fender benders on the left front side and the right front passenger tire hit a curb which bent the tire, but the tire has been balanced (not sure if the wheels were damaged in these minor accidents or if the wheels could be causing this?) Other thing that occurred right before the ABS light started coming on, and the brake issue, is that the air conditioner went toes up, and there were small metal fragments within the air condition housing unit. I replaced the whole A/C unit. I haven't been able to assess if one would have anything to do with the other, but it is interesting that the ABS and brake issue all started within a few days of the A/C unit being replaced.
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For those with a sunroof do you have the same issue as me?
On the passenger side when I apply slight pressure to the headliner, I get the following noise. In person it sounds like plastic tubes knocking around. The driver's side does not do this.
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Have an 06 2WD Explorer with 80,000mi and when driving down highway there is a bit of growling noise when any pressure is applied to the steering wheel. When driving straight not moving steering wheel its quite but when going around corner or curve tends to make noise. What I should be looking for? Brakes were replaced 10K miles ago. Ball joints or wheel bearings?
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My 95 Ford Probe is idling at around 450 RPMs and I'm not sure what the problem is. I have tried replacing the fuel filter already to see if that would work at all and, it didn't After doing some research online I have seen that it could possibly be an Air-Flow sensor.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
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My 95 Jeep GC is a great car, but it is now behaving too strangely to ignore. At about 1200 RPMs, when I'm just lightly hitting the gas, the car starts to have a "sputter" feel to it, like it's running out of gas. Then, after running it on the highway for a couple of hours (I live 2 hours from the nearest city in Alaska) the turning radius practically disappears and there is a horrible clunking noise and feel when I try to make a sharp turn. This goes away after driving it slowly through town for a while. The sputtering only happens at 1200. I've had it at 3 different mechanics, and no one can figure it out. I've emptied the gas tank and filled it with Premium and added 'heat' to it. I've had all the fluids changed out. I see this as two seperate issues, but can not figure out the sputtering thing at all.
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