Volvo - S60 :: 2001 - Stuck In Park And Alarm System Failure
Aug 16, 2012
Problem 1 started in winter of 2010 and happens randomly : can't shift the car from Park, I have to try several times, this occurs more during winter but now I'm having the same issue in summer even with temperatures above 78 degrees F. I took the car to the dealer in 2010 but nothing was wrong they said.Problem 2, my wife threw the original key in the dumpster by mistake ( with the remote keyless), I have had a key made buy the dealer, this key opens the doors and starts the car but each time I look the doors, the front passenger door unlocks itself. Now I'm having this message ALARM SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED. The alarm is no longer triggered.
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
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i drive a 2007 XC90 V8 with 76000miles and recently i got a power system failure message and battery light went on , so took it to my mechanic and he tested the car and it was tuning out 11volts so he concluded it was the alternator, so he recommended changing the regulator and i got a new regulator made by Bosch and it was installed and upon starting the message came back on and the battery light as well and upon testing it was producing 15.4volts , now its overcharging , what do i need to do ? should i buy another regulator ? as my mechanic says alternators hardly ever get damaged but the regulator is the one that usually gets damaged...
Attached File(s) :
- regulator1.jpg ( 314.57K )
- regulator_2.jpg ( 290.61K )
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My 2001 S80 Volvo (91,000 miles) has a problem--when I put it in reverse, apply the gas, the car will not move. Sometimes if I shift back to park and then back to reverse, the car moves, but with a clunking sound and it feels as if the car just went over a small rock. At other times it will not move at all. I had a new transmission put in November and a week ago the car would not move out of my garage. A day later when I tried to reverse out of the garage, it did so without any noise or hesitation. The repair shop kept it again for 4 days, ran another bunch of tests and could find nothing. The car drives just fine on the road--still has great acceleration. The problem is driving me nuts--I am afraid to take it out at times as I don't know when it might not reverse. what is wrong with this car?
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This is a car i am working on. 01 4motion passat. automatic. Tree fell on it. We put a new roof, quarter, door seats. Last night we moved it outside to clean the shop and went to move it back in. Won't shift out of park. Next tried turning ignition on the backing it off a little and cant get to neutral. Check fuses.
Brake light switch has been previously replaced by someone. and it works. Light next to gear selector working. brake lights fine. I have taken the center console out as much as I can. I can't get it completely out. But everything in there seems ok. When I press the brake in I don't hear any click or anything near the selector.
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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I have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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The passenger side low beam failure alarm come on about 20 seconds after starting the car. It goes out after about 10 seconds; then alarms again after 10 more seconds; it goes out and then finally alarms after another 10 seconds and stays alarmed until the car is turned off.
Looking at the light from the front of the car, it goes on and off as described above. However when it is on the light is very bright. This suggests to me a loose connection or maybe a a loose fuse. That is, unless this is the way those bulbs go out. It seems strange because the bulbs in my other cars did not behave like this. They were either out or not, never in between.
The only thing that has been done to this car was that the tires were balanced about five days ago. The VW place did not do a good job at balancing the tires when they rotated them. What is going on in my car?
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My 2008 Prius (111,000 miles) had all the panel alarm lights go on and lost power while I was driving on the freeway. After turning off the vehicle and letting it “rest” for 10 minutes, it restarted with only the red triangle alert light remaining on and was able to drive to my dealer service (about 40 miles) with no incident. The diagnostic code indicates that the inverter has failed, but the technicians are not able to confirm that this is the problem, since the system is now running. I was able to drive it home with no problems or warning lights. As this is a $4,000 part, I would like to know if this is a likely, or even possible, scenario for an inverter failing, or could it be another problem? Note: 3 months ago the auxiliary battery was replaced following the same circumstances.
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RE: 2007 Volvo XC90 90k miles
Pulled into my driveway last night with the power steering working intermittently for last 5 minute leg of my trip. Woke up this morning with no power steering and sqealing noise coming from engine.
No fluid leak on driveway. Drove to dealer with no power steering. Very hard to turn wheel - even while moving.
Dealer checked and said it was not a fluid issue and that they thought a screw might have fallen out and needed to take apart the rear of the engine (a 5-6 hour job) just to diagnose the problem.
A screw from the steering column in the rear engine?
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My upper strut mounts have been failing after a year (about 12,000 miles, typical highway and local street driving, no off-road!). This seems to have started when I replaced shocks with Bilstein slightly stiffer variety. I also put a stabilizer bar on it at that time. Do you think the shocks are the fault? What else might I look for?
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For several months I would intermittently get a message saying "Bulb failure, Low beam". It would go off and not reappear for a few weeks and then it got to where the message would come on and after a few hours it would go off and then reappear a few days later. Since the time frame was getting shorter and shorter between message appearances I decided it needed to be looked at.
The Volvo dealer just replaced the light bulb. After about a week, the message reappeared.
Long story short, I had the right headlight ballast (headlight igniter) replaced and a new ($230.00) right side Xenon bulb replaced. Neither of these actions has corrected the problem, although the mechanic that did the work said he did a scan on all systems and everything in the car was in good shape. I left his shop and about 6 blocks down the street, the message reappeared.
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I owned a Volvo 2003 s60, my question is I don't whether my car has an alarm system and siren, I have tried to open the door from inside, but the alarm doesn't come on. If doesn't have how can I install one.
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After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
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Last night returned from three hour trip in my 1994 volvo 960 station wagon and there was a loud whistle type noise from engine area, this morning started car and the noise is gone. I have not driven car yet? I just drove car a few miles yikes whats up ! constant alarm type noise from top rear area of motor !
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I have a 2005 Volvo XC90 with 120K+ miles. About 2-3 months ago, the car alrm started going off randomly, while sitting in my driveway. Generally it would go off around 9-11 pm, but also at any other time. It has gone off 5 times in a row within 5 mins. It has gone off at 3 AM, 4:10 am, 5:15 am, and other totally random times.
It happens anywhere from 2-5 or 6 times from when I get home til I leave in the morning. But here's the thing......it ONLY GOES OFF IN MY DRIVEWAY. Only. I have taken the fuse out, had the remote starter and alarm disconnected, tried leaving it unlocked, tried parking in a neighbors driveway. It still goes off.
The time are so random that no one can figure it out. The weather makes no difference. I literally keep my keys in my hand at all times when I'm home so that when the alarm goes off, I can turn it off as quickly as possible. I keep them on the floor outside when showering and in my hand when I go to bed.
The Volvo dealer says he's seen it 100's of time and he can fix it, but when I told him it only happens in my driveway, he said he had no idea what the problem could be. It's going to a car shop next week to see if they can disable the factory installed alarm but I hear that's nearly impossible.
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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My 2004 Volvo XC 90 has a severe "thump" in the front end, which is then followed by a very brief (split second) internal (meaning dashboard lights, hi-fi, dome lights, etc) power failure. Initially, the power failure would last only a split second and then car would continue running as normal, and there we no error codes or check engine lights.
But on the last long drive home, the "thump" was harder than usual, and the lights internally completely went out, hazard lights could not be turned on, blinkers could not be switched on, hi-fi went out, etc (though the electric windows would work). I pulled over, and turned the car off and restarted it, and the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, and a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, and that the SRS needed to be checked.
This problem has been occurring for a couple of months, and is very intermittent. Before this last incident, I took it into the dealership, who could not figure it out,. Now that I have an error code, I have it at another dealership, who seems equally mystified and have told me that they don't think the error code of check the SRS is going to fix the problem. The engine thump, followed by electrical failure seems really weird....
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