1993 Chevy Camaro Z28 5.7 Making Whining / Humming Noise
Jun 6, 2014
I have a 1993 Chevy Camaro z28 5.7 with about 135,000 miles. It made a whining/humming noise recently. It sounded soft at first, added oil the. Noise would go away. One time it got REALLY loud, spooked my girlfriend as well as me, then it stalled out and died. I checked the oil but that was fine so it bothere me even more. So I Let it sit for a few minutes then started with no problem. It happened again recently but i slowed down an it gt really loud again. Let it rest then tried going home. I was going about 75 miles per hour until it didn't want to give gas and started to stall. I pulled over and shut it off for a bit them drove it home while it did that stalling out about twice more.
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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I have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
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96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?
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This noise has been posted several times recently and I have also experienced similar sounds. Whining in the drivers side dash area. Dealer states that it is fuel pump and that it is normal. Well, it has been a lot colder here in the last week and the noise has become louder, a couple of times to the point that it was hard to carry on a conversation with someone in the vehicle.
So I started investigating and found that if I turned the HVAC fan all the way OFF, which turns the system off, then the noise is gone. So my noise has to be associated with the HVAC. Complaining of this same noise coming from the drivers side dash? Also found same noise when I would use the REST.
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I was installing a new engine mount the one on the tranny and one of my jack stands failed on me, luckily I wasn't under the car. I always put a tire under the car just in case and it worked for me, but now whenever I accelerate I have a humming/whining noise. Can this be the transmission? This is on the 07 Camry 4 Cylinder.
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The car is a 91 Chevy Camaro RS , 3.1 V6 and a 5 speed. Mileage is approx 400K + , the odometer has never worked since purchase and showed 239K when I purchased it approx 8 years ago.
The battery croaked due to being low on water and at the same time a stalling problem began so I wonder if the battery going bad may have contributed to the stalling issue.
The battery has been replaced with a new one but the stalling issue has not been resolved by replacing the battery.
At start up the car will idle correctly, occasionally when starting the rpm's will shoot up then slowly slow to correct idle
speed and usually continue to run.
When driving car seems fine but when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop at a sign, light, etc the engine rpm's begin to slow from traveling r's down to what would be normal idle speed, this is when it stalls.
If I left foot the brake and keep r's up with my right foot I can prevent the car from stalling. If I (using my foot on the gas) allow the r's to slowly come down to sitting idle speed it usually will not stall.
The cat converter was removed from the car several years back so it's not a clogged exhaust problem.
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I began hearing a whining/humming sound just a couple of days ago esp when hitting 45mph and then would notice as I took my foot off of gas. I had hoped it was either tire or bearing related, but Toyota tried for over an hour and finally determined it was transmission related..a new transaxle assy etc would cost a total of 6500$. However, they said they did not think I had to do anything right now as everything is well lubricated..they even thought it could remain the way it is for a year to two. My Prius has 180,000miles on it. Should I attempt to find a salvage transaxle and risk having it put in? Or should I cut my losses and given up?
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My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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I have a 2006 lexus es 330 that just turned over 90,000 miles. My dad and I have done the regular maintenance on it so far but this weekend after a 3 hour drive, I turned the car back on and a loud whirring/humming/whining noise was coming from the engine. It gets slightly louder with acceleration, but I can barely hear it once I've picked up speed (but it's still there.) It still happens when I am in neutral. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Close to the power steering pump area, but the power steering fluid is full (although it is a very dark/black color and has a slight smell...not sure if this is normal.) I'm not having any trouble or hesitation while steering. The rack is operating smoothly and it is not leaking. I plan on taking it into the shop but wanted to go in educated.
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I just bought a truck, it has a whining noise while accelerating, stops while letting on the gas, does not do it in neutral even if i rev up the engine. Only whines while there is some force on it, ie.. accelerating, or going up a hill at any angle, and does it from about 10-15mph- atleast 60mph.
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This intermittent no-start problem has been going on for approximately three years. It seems to be related to the fuel pump not coming on. When the car won't start - it will sputter a little then the engine will just turn over (strong battery) but you can't hear the fuel pump. Took it to the Chevy dealer first time and they said it needed a new fuel pump with a $1,200 price tag. We said we wanted to get a second opinion and took it to an independent garage. It's been so long that we forget what he did - but he did not replace the fuel pump.
A few months later - car does the exact same thing again, sputter then no start. Finally we we agreed to replace the fuel pump - so out comes the rear axle, exhaust system and fuel tank to install the new pump. Couple of months later - sputter then no start. Towed back to independent garage again after a few days it started with out doing any work on it. Started every time for the 6 months it sat at the garage. Attempted to replace the anti-theft model with a used one and he could get the car to start at all - reinstalled old module and it started immediately.
Have had the car back for a month and it sputters quite a bit before running. Today, sputter and no start . . . had the car towed back to the house in hope that it will start without intervention like the last time it went to a garage. The security system idiot light does goes off with the other idiot lights. I'm guessing the sputter is the gasoline that was in the system the last time the engine ran - then when no more fuel is being supplied - it won't start. The independent garage says they are reluctant to install a new anti-theft module for fear it won't be the solution.
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX with 146,000 miles. It started making a whining/high pitched humming type noise whenever I turned. Every now and then it makes the same noise (though not as loud) when I'm just driving straight.
When I checked my power steering fluid, it was low, so I added to it. That worked with the noise briefly, but now it's back and the fluid level is fine.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE I4 with about 34,500 miles. I have noticed that over the past 2 weeks, the car make a kind of slight humming noise only for a second. It only happens first thing in the morning after the first start of the day. Its not right away, it happens after I pull out of the driveway, and as I drive away it happens at about 10 mph. The noise will not happen till the following day after a cold start. I have tried to pinpoint the sound and it doesn't matter how long I let the car warm up and it doesn't matter if the heater is running or not. It will still make the noise. The car runs good other than this noise.
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My ALT is making a bad whining noise and when I disconnect it, the noise stops. it also seems to be slowing down the engine if that's possible.
The batt voltage is the same with the car running or stopped. no cell, batt idiot light comes on at startup and goes off like the rest of the warning lights.
This is the 2006 2azfe 4 banger.
I believe its gotta be a diode pack shot. Is it difficult to replace the pack or should I just get a rebuilt one? The Haynes doesn't show how to disassemble the alt and replace anything but I should be able to do it. would I also need to replace the brushes at the same time?
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We have a 2010 RX350. It makes a noise at a strange time. While in the garage with the engine off sometimes it makes a humming noise. The noise can last up to five minutes. It sounds like it could be coming from the back but not positive. The car has not been operated for several hours when the noise occurs. If I start the engine and immediately cut it off the noise goes away. I know that it will never do this if I take it to the Lexus dealership.
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I have 111,000 miles on my car and I take great care of the engine (or I try at least). I recently just had my first timing belt, water pump, and other belts changed 2 months ago with no problems at all. Recently, my engine just started making an annoying "whining" noise. It almost sounds like a bad transmission or something. However, it makes the same sound in "idle" and whenever I rev the engine the whining noise gets louder. I know the noise is coming from the left side of the engine and I think it may be my alternator dying. When I move the steering wheel around the sound does not get any worse too.
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I have a 1993 Escort with a manual transmission. It runs great and is pretty dependable. Lately it has been making this wierd noise. It's like growling. Yeah. Wierd. I think my car is angry with me. The growling noise is most noticeable when I downshift. When I stop the noise is gone. Also, when I am accelerating the noise is not present. I hear the growling when I'm coasting in neutral too, though it's not as loud as it is when I downshift. How can I make my car happy again and stop the growling?
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I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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My 2002 outback tape deck, which I use primarily to listen to my phone via a cassette adaptor, has recently started making a very loud buzzing/humming noise. It does this with both my old and a new adaptor, as well as a standard audio tape.
I could try using a head cleaner on the tape deck, but my impression is that this isn't what typically would happen if the head needs cleaning, and I don't particular want to waste the time and money on a solution that I'm pretty sure isn't going to work, but I'm asking you all in case you know better than me (a real possibility). I just don't know if I should try that first, or if I should just go out and purchase a new car stereo that has either blue tooth, or an audio input plug so I can directly plug the phone in that way.
Also if I do go the way of replacing the stereo, is that generally a straightforward process? And would most replacement stereos be compatible with my vehicle, or do I need to be selective?
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