Camaro :: 1995 Chevy V6 3.4L - Overheating / Water Pump Was Leaking Fluids
Oct 4, 2011
My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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1995 Isuzu Rodeo. Replaced water pump, thermostat, timing belt & components. Now it over heats & no heat in cab. I was told to "burp" the cooling system but can't find the bleed valve. Is there even one on the V6 engine???
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My neighbor has a 1995 Kia Sportage that is overheating...he said the last time it got hot a stream of water shot up onto his windshield. He has been unable to find a leaky hose, etc. Could this be the head gasket?
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i just did a new timing belt water pump kit on a 2001 1.8t (aug engine code) the new pump has a metal impeller. i ran it in the drive way for mots of an hour off and on. figured it was good. took it for a drive and at 5 miles it overheated. Temp Went straight to 260 and stop light came on. coolant could be heard boiling in the system. when i let it idle and ran the heater i got the temp to go back down to 190. but after idling for couple minutes it started going back up. I don't think the stat is bad considering that the heater works which shows that the system is flowing.
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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I have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
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My aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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Ok so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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We had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
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I have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…
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96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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My '95 Grand Cherokee (104K miles) just started groaning when I make full turns. After first 1 or two turns, right or left, can hear the steering column groan and feel some resistance. Have I lost power steering fluid? or worse?
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I learned today there are at least two water pumps in my 2006 Prius, and that one of them is leaking. I had the recall done for the electric motor water pump in November. Now, during my scheduled maintenance, they tell me my second water pump has been leaking (slowly). My car has 132,000 miles.
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A little less than a year ago I decided to change the timing belt & water pump on my then 61k miles '05 V8. I bought the BlauParts timing belt kit and rented the tools from them also. The install went without a hitch, the old water pump gasket came off nice and clean and I installed the new water pump gasket without any RTV as per the instructions.
A couple of weeks ago the Phaeton hit 65k miles so I did an oil change and while I had the belly pan off I noticed a small whitish pink spot on the belly pan, right below the crankshaft pulley. Looking closer I found coolant traces that came from the water pump area. I cleaned it all up and decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if it's an actual ongoing leak or if that was maybe just an old leak that might have happened just after the install. Unfortunately it's an actual leak ..
First I thought maybe it's leaking out at the gasket but closer investigation shows that the leak is actually right below the pulley at the bottom of what looks like a freeze plug at the front of the water pump. Is this a common area for a leak with this type of water pump? It's only been installed for 11 months and 4,500 miles. Btw, the pump in the kit is a Saleri model GD42107.
I'm really bummed about this because it's a lot of work to swap a water pump out and I'd hate going thru all that work again (and having to rent the tools again). Question is, can I swap the water pump out without putting the front bumper into the service position? From what I recall the only clearance issue might be finding a puller that is short enough to pop off the camshaft sprockets with the radiator that close.
Here are a few photos from when I found the leak:
This was after a 200 mile trip, fresh coolant:
This is were the leak is coming from:
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I just got back from the dealer and was told my water pump was leaking. I was told it was a small leak and that it could only be seen by lifting the car. I opened the hood and noticed some pink crusty looking thing on what i believed to be the water pump. I took some pictures of the water pump, the radiator and overflow level. If you look closely you can see some of the pink crusty stuff around the pump. I poked it with a pencil and it broke apart pretty easy.
First of all if that pink crusty stuff is anything i should worry about? Also if the levels of the fluid in the radiator/overflow tank are good? Is there another sure way i can tell that i even have a water pump leak? I searched around the forum and it looks like the hardest part about replacing the water pump is getting the air out of the system and that the dealer quote is a rip-off.
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my 2007 Camry LE I4 and I got an oil change at the dealer today. He tried to tell me my water pump was leaking and needed replacement.
Offered me a deal of "%50 off the price for $500" which I think is ridiculous. Took it to a family friend that is a mechanic and he said $266 to replace the whole thing.
Dealer said they would do a price match but I'm not sure what to do.
They said it would make it to Tennessee and back because it's in its infant stage.
My question is, when I refilled my low antifreeze, I accidentally overfilled a lot past the line. Would this have anything to do with this issue?
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