Ford :: 1995 - Coolant Leakage - Changed Thermostat / Water Pump
Mar 25, 2016
1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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My audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I have a new thermostat and a new water pump. Why is my car still running hot?
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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I have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
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I'm sitting at my Toyota dealer where I bought the car 3 weeks ago. My car is in because it needs to have the engine coolant pump replaced due to a leak. Is this a common fix for the gen 2 Prius? Fortunately this is getting covered under warranty.
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I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
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This is an update to my Heater Hose to Water Pump Failure post. As it turns out, the water/coolant pump seems to have failed at the same time as the heater hose. I think Ford secretly installed an internal time mechanism to deconstruct certain parts at the same time.
Anyway, in desperation I took the van to the local Ford dealer for an inspection. NOTE: I don't trust most of the locally owned small time shops and national franchises. Half of the time, they don't know what they are talking about.
They said the water pump is toast. And I already knew that! Then they said, because the water pump is attached to the front timing chain cover, they need to replace the gaskets there also, and also the oil pan is attached to the front chain cover, so that needs done, and then they said the radiator is also leaking. What!!!
Then they asked if I would be interested in buying a new or used vehicle. This tool works great. Mine happens to be a left hand fan. The tool is used with the handle on the left. This tool is used to hold Water Pump pulley stationary, while unbolting the fan assembly.
Tomorrow morning is when I finally replace the water pump. Not a lot of tool are needed, except for the stubborn fan clutch. Sockets: 8, 10, 13, 17, except a 22 mm open end wrench for the fan clutch.
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1994 - 3.0 .... Back behind the water pump there is a stream of coolant what could that be. Water pump has been replaced earlier last year I thought that fixed it,there has always been a mystery leak..
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1995 Isuzu Rodeo. Replaced water pump, thermostat, timing belt & components. Now it over heats & no heat in cab. I was told to "burp" the cooling system but can't find the bleed valve. Is there even one on the V6 engine???
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my EX is a 2000 XLT 6.8 4WD I have 146,000 on it. Last week I replaced the expansion tank with a new one, went just fine no leaks, new prestone at 50/50, today she overheated to the red so I changed the thermostat, still overheating, no leaks fluid level good. What am I missing ????
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My 92 Explorer 4WD has a coolant leak somewhere at the front of the engine above the water pump. I assume it's the lower intake manifold gasket leaking. The engine has 170k miles. I'm also seeing a small amount of white smoke, possibly steam when the engine is running. It's somewhat heavy when I start it up but mostly goes away once warm, so I suppose it could be steam, but could be coolant from either a head gasket leak or lower intake leak.
I also get a lot of water from the exhaust dripping on to the floor and the smell of the exhaust could be that of coolant, it's hard to tell. There is no coolant in the oil. I was wondering if I should go ahead and change the head gaskets while I have the intake out. Is there anyway to be certain the head gaskets are fine? I'd hate to change the intake gasket to find out there's a small leak in one of the head gaskets.
One other thing: I failed emissions because my CO was too high, but my HC and NOx were very low. Could this be an indication of coolant entering the combustion chamber? Just wondering why my CO was so high yet everything else passed (Massachusetts emissions).
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My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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I replaced a water pump on a customers 2013 5.0L truck this week. The bearing was totally shot and lost all the coolant. Truck only had 46000 miles on it, is this common?
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