Mustang :: Replaced Water Pump / Thermostat / Underdrive Pulley But Still Overheats?
Aug 10, 2014
My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I have a new thermostat and a new water pump. Why is my car still running hot?
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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How to remove the water pump pulley on a 2003 W8? I removed the 4 bolts but I don't want to go crazy and end up ruining it.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry, 4-Cylinder w/ 55,000 miles on it.
Yesterday, when I started the engine I heard a rattling noise. Opening it up and looking inside, it seemed to be coming from the area of the serpentine belt. Looking closer, I saw that the pulley appeared to be wobbling slightly, although it didn't feel loose to the touch.
As I'm out of town on a roadtrip and needed to try to get home, I decided to try to drive it anyway. Aside from the noise itself, the car ran fine - the engine temperature stayed normal, which I kept an eye on closely.
After a bit over 50 miles of this, however, the serpentine belt got thrown off. With my engine temperature rising, alternator not functioning and power steering cut out, I pulled over immediately and shut off the car.
Looking more closely at the water pump pulley, I could see that it was clearly tilted in its alignment in comparison to the other pulleys along the belt's route. This explains the wobbling I saw. Clearly that needs to be repaired, lest it throw off the serpentine belt again.
So, this brings me to my questions here.
Given that the water pump itself seemed to be functioning fine during the drive until the belt got thrown, is it possible that just the pulley itself is broken? Or that it's misaligned?
If so, is it possible to replace / realign the pulley without having a mechanic tear the car apart to get the water pump out?
If these aren't the issue, is it possible that the water pump itself is just misaligned as opposed to broken? If so, can it be realigned without buying a new one?
I'm basically trying to assess
* what exactly is the problem
* whether it is something I can fix myself without a mechanit
* whether I'll need parts and what those parts would be
* how many hours of service I should expect to have to fund if I can't do it myself
Here's a picture of how it looks right now .....
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My wife calls me yesterday and said she could hear a rattling noise from the engine area, but no other issues presented themselves. Later, I checked the engine compartment for the noise with the engine on and found that the noise was coming from the area of the engine water pump/idler pulley but i couldn't really narrow it much closer. The noise honestly sounds like bearings about to go out. I did see that behind the water pump pulley there was a small buildup of corrosion on the water pump, but no apparent leaks or wetness. The car has the original water pump and idler pulley with 140k. I plan on replacing the water pump, idler pulley and thermostat in the morning. Or is this overkill? I don't want to lose the engine nor do I want my wife to get stranded anywhere.
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Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
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I have a noise coming from the front of the engine. The noise stops once the the thermostat opens and the water pump starts circulating coolant.
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On the 06 Prius I have been working on, I noticed a light build up of pink coolant residue on the inside of the ICE water pump pulley. I assumed that this was due to a coolant leak from the weep hole, which points to an impending water pump failure.
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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my EX is a 2000 XLT 6.8 4WD I have 146,000 on it. Last week I replaced the expansion tank with a new one, went just fine no leaks, new prestone at 50/50, today she overheated to the red so I changed the thermostat, still overheating, no leaks fluid level good. What am I missing ????
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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