Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Water Pump Pulley Shims
Mar 22, 2017
Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
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How to remove the water pump pulley on a 2003 W8? I removed the 4 bolts but I don't want to go crazy and end up ruining it.
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry, 4-Cylinder w/ 55,000 miles on it.
Yesterday, when I started the engine I heard a rattling noise. Opening it up and looking inside, it seemed to be coming from the area of the serpentine belt. Looking closer, I saw that the pulley appeared to be wobbling slightly, although it didn't feel loose to the touch.
As I'm out of town on a roadtrip and needed to try to get home, I decided to try to drive it anyway. Aside from the noise itself, the car ran fine - the engine temperature stayed normal, which I kept an eye on closely.
After a bit over 50 miles of this, however, the serpentine belt got thrown off. With my engine temperature rising, alternator not functioning and power steering cut out, I pulled over immediately and shut off the car.
Looking more closely at the water pump pulley, I could see that it was clearly tilted in its alignment in comparison to the other pulleys along the belt's route. This explains the wobbling I saw. Clearly that needs to be repaired, lest it throw off the serpentine belt again.
So, this brings me to my questions here.
Given that the water pump itself seemed to be functioning fine during the drive until the belt got thrown, is it possible that just the pulley itself is broken? Or that it's misaligned?
If so, is it possible to replace / realign the pulley without having a mechanic tear the car apart to get the water pump out?
If these aren't the issue, is it possible that the water pump itself is just misaligned as opposed to broken? If so, can it be realigned without buying a new one?
I'm basically trying to assess
* what exactly is the problem
* whether it is something I can fix myself without a mechanit
* whether I'll need parts and what those parts would be
* how many hours of service I should expect to have to fund if I can't do it myself
Here's a picture of how it looks right now .....
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My wife calls me yesterday and said she could hear a rattling noise from the engine area, but no other issues presented themselves. Later, I checked the engine compartment for the noise with the engine on and found that the noise was coming from the area of the engine water pump/idler pulley but i couldn't really narrow it much closer. The noise honestly sounds like bearings about to go out. I did see that behind the water pump pulley there was a small buildup of corrosion on the water pump, but no apparent leaks or wetness. The car has the original water pump and idler pulley with 140k. I plan on replacing the water pump, idler pulley and thermostat in the morning. Or is this overkill? I don't want to lose the engine nor do I want my wife to get stranded anywhere.
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Is there any benefit to adding water pump lube to a 4.6L engine? There's smelly, old looking coolant in my friend's "new" 1997 F-150 so a flush is in the immediate future. I'm going to suggest using G-05 coolant over conventional green due to its longer life. Should water pump lube be added?
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I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
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My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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We had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
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Ok so I have a 2002 f-150 4.2. I was replacing the PCV elbow that always crack and I figured while I'm down here, I might as well replace the PCV valve as well. I have the PCV valve that has 3 connections, 1 to the crankcase and then 2 "vacuum" type connections connected to the water pump and is full of coolant of course. What am I missing here, I though sometimes these things were connected to a vacuum line, is this some kind of heater for the PCV?
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I have a noise coming from the front of the engine. The noise stops once the the thermostat opens and the water pump starts circulating coolant.
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On the 06 Prius I have been working on, I noticed a light build up of pink coolant residue on the inside of the ICE water pump pulley. I assumed that this was due to a coolant leak from the weep hole, which points to an impending water pump failure.
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An idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
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My 99 5.4 V8 2wd truck is having AC problems. Everything started this time last year when my ac pulley bearing went out, I replaced it (pain in the neck) and everything worked fine until a few weeks ago. I was lubricating under the truck and i noticed the Clutch Hub and bolt had fell off. I went to a junkyard and took a new hub and bolt and 3 spacers and installed it in my truck. I tightened the bolt as hard as I could get it. The next few weeks the air was colder but i noticed the hub always spun with the pulley. It didn't matter if the ac was on or off the hub spun with the pulley 100% of the time.
I tried loosening it last weekend and it just spun freely never engaging it just rattled there. I got frustrated so i just tick the hub off. Now the pulley on the end of the compressor is just spinning with not hub bolted on it. I don't know what to do and i don't want to pay ford 1grand to put a new clutch and compressor in. The high pressure line also seems to be very greasy almost like there is an ac coolant leak there. I don't know if its bad to have the hub engaged 100% of the time or if its better to just not have one on there.
Also whenever I drive around town from 10-35 miles an hour my truck squeaks as it goes over bumps, it sounds like a dogs chew tow it is driving me crazy and i cant replicate it by moving my truck around when its in park and I don't know where its coming from. My truck has 141K on it I'm in college so I have to fix everything myself pretty much.
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got the 4.6, AC clutch is just winding like crazy, so Im going to do a cheap fix and jus bypass the pully. Now do I need to remove the compressor or can I just get a belt for a 4.6 without AC and just not use it?
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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My water pump went out. Besides the obvious replacing the pump is there anything else I should do while making the repair?
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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