Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Driver Side Window Popping Out Of Track
Nov 30, 2014
Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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The driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
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2002 accent with the driver window stuck down. I have the door panel off and when i look up I see the pulley with the cable balled up and two cable ends hooked to nothing.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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At times, not often but on my 04, when I turn headlights on, the drivers side front window will go down, and when I work the switch to make it go up, the passenger side front window will go down.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car, so tracing the circuits would be next to impossible.
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Here's one I haven't heard of before on a Prius:
As I was closing my front driver's side window this afternoon I heard a pop or bang, and I noticed the window was closed, mostly, but it didn't fit right and the top rear of the window was out of the frame, up above where it should be, and the front, sloping portion of the window was below where it should be.
I put it up and down a few times, and eventually managed to coax it back into position, but it didn't stay there when I opened and closed the window again. It feels to me like whatever connects the glass to the motor and gizmoss that lift it up and down has broken or come undone.
I fear that it is a dangerous condition, because the window might pop out completely at high speed. Unlike the last time I remember having a car with a window disconnected from its mechanism (the 60's or so), we no longer have window frames to make sure they stay in place when the machinery breaks. Also, it has always seemed to me that the car's aerodynamic shape puts pressure on the doors and glass at highway speeds.
Anyway, I'm going to get this in to the dealer as soon as possible, but I wanted to ask:
Am I paranoid not to want to drive it at speed until I get it fixed?
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I rented my car for a few days on Turo and it returned with this problem. The renter says nothing happened, who knows. When I raise or lower the window, there is a loud pop/crack that happens. It always happens at the same height. I can raise and lower the window for a couple inch around that point and reproduce that sound everythime.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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The drivers side window on my 2013 Accent quit going up yesterday. I guess it's time to pull the door apart and look at the rails and mechanism.
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My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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2012 Accent. I have a wind noise issue. I don't mean that it's just loud. The driver's side upper window area has a crazy noise. It's a high pitched (is there another kind?) whistle. It is very inconsistent. I can not give any precise circumstance under which it appears, but it is definitely speed related. It appears from about 65-70 mph. But only sometimes. It also seems more common with cross winds, but it's hard to say for sure. I can not for the life of me pinpoint the origin. It seems to be around head level on the driver's door.
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Truck was sitting for a month, now drivers side power window has quit working. tried switching circuit breaker. can hear clicking sound in switch and lights dim but the window will not roll down. All other electrical is working fine.
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I recently bought a 2005 Elantra. At about 45 mph I start noticing air noise from the Driver side window. It peaks at about 70 mph. Not super loud but sounds almost like the window is very slightly cracked open. There is no air intrusion or water during rains.
I had the dealer check it and they test drove and said that it was normal and probably caused by the mirrors.
I have had mirrors like this before on other cars and never had air noise.
My question to you all is; Is this normal or should I pursue it further.
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I changed out my front springs awhile ago and recently pulled off the track bar and replaced the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
Today I noticed that the Ex is sitting a bit low on the drivers side. I measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground, drivers side 40 inches, passenger side 40 1/2 inches.
It was really hard getting the track bar back in after the bushing change. Would an adjustable track bar fix this?
This is for a 2004 Excursion 4x4 with a 6.0. Bilstein shocks, approx 1 1/2 years old.
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1993 with 95,XXX miles. Driver's seat has developed a little looseness that allows it to rock just a little. Is there a reasonable fix?
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2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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I own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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There is no solenoid on the drivers door just an energising switch so a remote system, without modifications, will not open the drivers door.
To get it to work you would need to source & fit a solenoid into the drivers door, wire it, then wire in the remote locking box for the remote function - complicated for the average person and expensive otherwise.
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Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
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