Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 Engine Cuts Out Intermittently - Idle Roughly
Aug 5, 2015
Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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The problem started when my clutch fluid began leaking a couple of months ago. I first noticed that it would take an unusual amount of effort to shift into gear and, after checking, found the clutch fluid completely gone and I filled it up immediately. Three weeks later, the fluid was gone again, so I took it in to a reputable mechanic, who said I needed my slave cylinder replaced. A week after replacement, I start to notice that my car increasingly had trouble "catching" into gear (my engine was accelerating, but not moving very fast; soft clutch). I thought maybe something went wrong with the slave cylinder repair and took it back to the same place, but the news came back that I needed a new clutch.
At 143,000 miles on the original clutch, I wasn't surprised it was time for a new one. Immediately after picking up my car with the new clutch--and by immediate, I mean right after I pulled out of the mechanic's parking lot--I noticed my car was driving horribly. The engine was idling extremely rough and it felt gritty when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration. I took it back to my mechanic the next morning to explain the problem, but they treated me like I was an idiot, didn't detect anything wrong with my car, and clearly didn't know what I was talking about even though I personally showed them my steering was shaking pretty badly while idling.
A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
My question is, what is the most likely cause of the cylinder 2 misfire (given my car's very recent history) and most importantly, could the mechanic have caused the problem I am experiencing? How should I handle this situation with them from here? I will no longer be using their services after I get this problem sorted out, as I feel like my car did not receive the best service.
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES (1.8L) with 120k+ miles and an automatic transmission. The car drives well at speed, but when sitting at stops it will shake a little, sometimes worse than others. Often the RPMs drop to below the lowest tick for a split second before recovering, very much like when driving a manual transmission and not pressing the clutch in enough. Even when the RPMs are steady at a stop, it shakes enough to rattle a couple of the plastic parts in the dashboard.
Recent history (some likely unrelated, but I'm no expert):New air hose (one from the air filter to the engine) in September. RPMs were falling at idle more often than they are now, there was a decent sized crack in the hose. RPMs stopped falling as often, but has idled roughly before and after.New radiator and thermostat in April (overheated on the interstate and cracked open).New spark plugs and wires last fall after one cylinder wasn't firing.For the last couple years every fall when it starts to get cold, the alternator belt squeaks and I tighten the bolt a little each morning until it stops (usually after 2 days, maybe 3 - the alternator itself is on a long bolt that adjusts the belt tension).Every 5k miles I have the oil changed with high mileage oil and tires rotated/balanced.
I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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On my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
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Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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The power steering on my 2001 Honda Civic intermittently cuts out and the wheel becomes really hard to turn. The belt is tight and the fluid level is correct.
The weird thing about it, is it only happens in cold weather. Everything was fine all summer, but now that the weather has turned colder the problem has reappeared. Same thing happened last year. . .
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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The air conditioning of my 2000 Passat wagon cuts out when the car is not in motion. It works great when the car is in motion but not at all when stuck in traffic or at a stop light.
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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I would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
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