Accent LC (2000-05) :: A/C Compressor Making Noise When Cuts Out
Apr 26, 2012
Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Accent, with low miles (10,000), and the A/C Compressor is making a "growling" noise. The only way to explain the noise is when you hear a human try to immiate the sound of a dog growling. That's exactly what it sounds like.
First thing in the morning it doesn't make the noise to much, but as you drive for a bit you will start to hear it. Sometimes it's really loud, sometimes quieter. When you shut the A/C off, it will continue for a few seconds then stop.
The service department told me it was the compressor and it is, "pretty normal on the cars." How is that normal though? It sounds awful.
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My engine is making a ticking noise. Louder when I start it and not as intense after it warms up but its still there. I first thought it was one of my pulleys making noise but I brought it to a friend who knows a lot more then I do and he says to check the engine valves. Did some searching online and thinking it might be the valve lash adjuster but not sure.
Anyway whats the best way to go about this? What type of oil should I be using and I also read I should be only buying Hyundai oil filters?
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My daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
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I have a 2001 1.6 DOHC Accent the engine has been making a lot noise coming form just the back of the head it kinda sounds like a diesel. I pulled the valve cover off and turned the engine over by hand. I noticed that cam chain has a good amount of slack in it. Is there a tensioner to take slack out of the chain? If so can I adjust it? If not how do I replace the chain?
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My car is a 2002 Accent. So last weekend I replaced my timing belt and my 3 other belts. Before I did this the belts were not squeaking and I was not having any issues with my power steering. I started my car up and the power steering pump was making lots of noise, the power steering reservoir was still full. I was told it's probably the power steering pump and that I would need a new one. So I got a new one, put it on and still the same thing. I looked online and saw that it may be an air bubble in the line so I removed the cap on the reservoir and, with the car turned off and the front wheels off the ground, cranked the wheels lock to lock about 20 times. I started the car and it still makes noise. This morning the power steering felt like it was lagging as I was backing out of my driveway and the squeaking happens when I am idling and gets louder and worse up to about 2000 rpm then stops, which it has been doing since I replaced the belts. I am not sure what else to do, did I mess up the new pump by driving and not bleeding the air out?
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The steering on our 02 Accent has been becoming more and more difficult. The belt on the AC compressor snapped off recently. Could this missing belt be causing a problem with the power steering belt? The power steering belt is now making a squeaking noise.
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I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
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On my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
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I've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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I have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
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l have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
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Pretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
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I charged my AC a few weeks ago. After I added oil it began to make noise. Like metal on metal or a bad bearing. Could be the clutch pulley, bad bearing from what I've read. I don't want to replace it, nor do I want to spend the time and money putting in a bypass pully. I'd like to simply bypass the AC compressor by putting a shorter belt on. Problem is I can't seem to find any clear info on how and what size belt to use. I see a few saying it can be done and one saying it can't. Also, is the 2.4 the same as the 3.0 in regards to the belt diagram?I need to fix this asap, before it seizes up and I lose the belt or damage other stuff.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
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My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
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This week was our first nice week of the year. Monday I got in my truck at lunch time turned the a.c. on and it blew ice cold. Today my truck sat in the sun all day and I got in it and turned the a.c. on. I noticed instead of the normal "click" you hear when the clutch engages in the a.c. compressor I got a wine and wimper kind of noise. The system never cooled the air after this happened. Is the compressor shot? Is it safe to drive or is the compressor going to tear itself up and send metal pieces thru the system?
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