I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
View 3 Replies2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
View 2 RepliesThis just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
View 2 RepliesMy fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL. I have had the alternator, sensor and battery replaced recently. Well brakes etc too.
My problem is now the car will not start. It was fine this morning and later in the day I went out to start it to move it and there is NO power to it at all.
When I put the key in to start it, no power, no lights etc..
My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
Basically I was driving along yesterday, no issues at all. about 3/4 of the way to my destination the car all of a sudden had a distant drop in power, a big vibration ran through the whole car at most RPM's and the engine/exhaust note is now best described as 'the Jetson's flying car'....although not that high pitched.
When I got to my destination, I pulled up to supercheap auto, checked the oil and there was a tiny bit at the bottom of the dipstick, so I topped it up to full but the issue still exists. After I popped the bonnet I also noticed a strong 'burning rubber' smell, but all the pulley's looked to be operational (could be wrong, didn't have a torch on me).
Got home, replaced the spark plugs as I thought a cylinder may have been missing, the first cylinder plug was black and oily, but the rest looked normal. So swapped them all out and the problem still exists, although not as severe.
My 2000 Hyundai Accent has no power to anything. I checked the battery and it is good. I cleaned the terminals
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
View 2 RepliesAwful belt noise that erupts during cold starts. I realize that this usually means a replaced belt. I want to know how to go along diagnosing which belt and then how to replace it. Here's the symptoms:
1. Awful belt screech when turned on, goes away within 20 seconds
2. Belt noise comes back when turning the wheel to back out of a right driveway
3. The STEERING WHEEL feels like it has no power steering WHILE the screeching is happening.
4. The headlights (when on) dim for about 3 seconds
5. All these symptoms happen when the temperature is below freezing and it's a cold start.
How is the belt screeching connected to the steering wheel being tough I turn?
Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
View 5 RepliesLike the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
I just had lots of work done on my car, and since then the Hyundai radio (HM5064) is not working. I thought I just needed to put the radio code in again, but when I went to do that today, all the LEDS are showing for the stations, time, Cd etc.There is just no sound.
View 5 RepliesI took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
View 2 RepliesI have had the keys recoded 9 days ago and two days ago they started playing up again, today I phoned the mob I paid $150 to recode my keys and they're going to look at it again (for a small fee) despite it their work being faulty, is there anything else that could be causing this? It will sometimes take 20+ turns of my key before it registers.
View 7 Replies