Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 Taking Longer Than Usual To Start
Mar 6, 2014
2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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I've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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Vent selector knob works, but likely whatever mechanism that directs the air to different vents is no longer connected...it is perpetually stuck on "feet". I have removed trim pieces around the radio, but it didn't seem to lead me to where I needed to be.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent. The press button inside the car no longer works so the A/C has been stuck ON for some time now. I don't live in a hot area so going without A/C wouldn't bother me too much. Is there an easy (read cheap) way to simply turn off the A/C from under the hood? My brother says he wants to remove the A/C belt but his knowledge of cars is often dicey. Might fix the problem, might blow up the car.
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Just recently I"ve noticed my Pri-v is taking longer, and not as often switching to EV. All these observations are after the car has been fully warmed up and driven for several miles with a sufficient battery charge. Previously it would always switch to EV at 43mph when letting off the accelerator.......and I could keep it going usually till about 45.... A quick let of the accelerator would almost always accomplish this. Recently it has not been consistent...a few times not even shutting off when the car is stopped. The car has about 88,000 on the odometer. I've always noticed when it does go from ICE to EV, the transition is not a smooth too. That I"m guessing is the transmission fluid?
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My wife's 03 accent cranks over good, but won't start. It does fire some but won't start. I tried squirting starter fluid in the intake and that only made it fire less. Spark is strong on all four cylinders. At first I thought I found the problem because it had weak spark on the middle two cylinders and i replaced that coil pack and now all four are strong, but still same problem.
She drove it home and parked overnight, and in the morning it wouldn't start. I don't think it is the timing belt. I replaced it not too long ago, and I took a peak behind the top of the cover and all still appears to be as it should.
I am now at a bit of a loss. I mean it has good spark, won't start with starting fluid, so what could it be?
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Taking longer and longer for key fob to open doors, etc. Assume the battery needs to be changed. Have no problem with other fob. How do you change the battery in the key fob for this year model.
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I have an accent 2003 1.6 dohc crank but not start !!! Who do not fire and no gas ... and the check engine light is off when I turn the key on... (I test the check engine light and it is not burn).
I change the engine control relay and this is not work... I have all the wiring diagram and I check wire by wire and I don't find anything...
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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Took my car into the dealership today. They're ordering a new steering wheel but they also said that this happens more with women drivers bc of lotions and stuff. I know how chemicals can manipulate materials but I don't use any of smelly scented stuff. I think it's bs. Who cares.
They ran a diagnostic check for the mpg and said its fine. That's all. Then why has my avg mpg dropped from the usual 25 down to 21/22 for the last month??? There is something going on but I can't figure it out. even with the low mpg numbers itself they aren't concerned.
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1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
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I have a 2013 Accent GL AT (Canadian spec). I recently had an oil change in which a Fram Xtra Guard was installed. However, when I reached my first hill with the new oil and filter, it sounded like the cars engine noise was different from before. It had become a low humming noise, almost like it was straining and didn't have enough power and would downshift later than usual. I changed the filter back to an OEM and still have the noise there, but not as bad.
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