Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Engine Cranks But No Fire
Oct 13, 2011
My hyundai accent 2004 standard doesn't start. The engine crank, but there's no fire. I change the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Also change my timing belt, my alternator, my starter, my control box and my computer. But if I pull the car with my pickup, it runs. While the engine is running, the computer doesn't give me any diagnostic code. I also check my fuse, relay,... Even jump start the starter to check if it was the switch.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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My 04 accent will not start. I have an automatic. It cranks but will not start. First I replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. Wasn't getting fire until my friend tested to coil and i tried to crank while the tester was in the ground wire while I turned it over and it cranked. Only worked for about an hour and is still not starting but it sounds like something isn't telling it to crank?
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Been having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?
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I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
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a 2004 passat 1.8t 5spd came to the shop, cranks but does not
fire/run..i through the vas 5051 on there - p0688 - open circ. main relay...located this power supply relay and tested it - she had an open winding...replaced it runs excellent
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1999 Passat turbo with a little over 100K miles. Car ran fine last night. This morning, the engine/starter cranks well, but no fire. And it has gas in the tank.
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Ok.... So I took my car for a drive to see my friend, started normally....... After an hour or so I left and this time the car cranks but will not fire........ This same problem happened in the dead of winter...... So I remove the key and let the car sit for 15 minutes and then boom it starts as it normally would.........
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Having an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
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I just finished putting in aftermarket A/C in the 2004 Ranger my dad gave my son. It's a 2.3L, STD transmission. It was running GREAT before the project started. I installed new battery as part of the project. When I started it back up it ran for 2 or 3 seconds then died. I now cranks, but does not fire at all.
I have tried one of the key reprogramming sequences (turn key to "ON" 8 times) with no success. Would it crank at all if it were a key security issue? Is there anything I need to reset anywhere else, like in the air intake system?
It's either not getting spark or not getting air. The fact that it ran for a couple of seconds has me confused. Would it run at ALL if there was a key security problem?
I had to remove and reinstall the air filter housing and ducting. Is there anything else I need to do to with the air intake system?
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I just bought an 04 Ford F250 diesel 6.0 with 92k miles. Previous owner installed a UNGO alarm with remote start. Last week, after work, I started it using remote start. I got in the truck and realized I had forgotten something, so I exit the truck and leave the keys on the seat. Truck is still running. The doors lock. I reached in through the cracked window and pushed the unlock button. Here's the problem.. the truck died immediately won't start.. mechanic says it's the high pressure oil pump. I'm thinking it's the anti theft system but no luck.
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2004 ford ranger 3.0 ... So here it goes I am pretty mechanically incline for the most part i would say until this last week i got a rod knock. So i replaced all my push rods put everything back together and now my car cranks but just wont start up where did i go wrong. I cant afford to get another truck i just want my baby back up and running ...
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I have a 2006 f-250 powerstroke with 97000 on it egr delete exhaust and a h and s xrt pro on it. The pickup will always start when the engine and oil is cool, but once i run it for a while it and the oil gets warm it wont start back up again. I then have to leave it sit for a while and it will start. The engine just cranks but does not fire. I have replaced the dummy plugs on both sides and all the injector o rings on the passenger side. Some mechanic friends of min have had same problemed 6.0 liters and replaced these and it has fixed the problems I do not think it my high pressure pump.
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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My daughter has a 03 Accent that within the past week will not start at certain times. Some times it will some times it wont. It always cranks but doesn't catch. If she tries to start the car and it cranks, but doesn't catch, if you wait 15 -20 minutes, or longer, it will turn over and run fine. We are thinking crank position sensor or possibly fuel pump...
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