Accent LC (2000-05) :: High Idle - Hesitating / Bogging Over Half Throttle
Oct 15, 2011
I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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Picked up an 02 Accent with 97K for local use. The brake pedal went down half way before engaging and hardening. Front brakes were good. Rear shoes were worn and had a leaking wheel cylinder on the right side. Changed the shoes and both wheel cylinders. Bled the rear brakes with the engine off by pumping the pedal slowly and opening the bleed to make sure I got no air in. Pedal got hard just off the top and the shoes hold the brake drum tight.
Now, turn the engine on and the pedal goes all the way down before it grabs and gets hard. I was going to bleed again with the engine on to see if that makes any difference. Can't see that it's the master cylinder and the car has no abs.
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The front intermittent wipers on my 2004 hyundai accent will start then stop half way,continue all the way in the same direction then return half way and finally park. I have replaced the wiper stork switch and wiper relay [blue one in engine bay fuse box]. What controls the intermittent function? is it the bcm? and where's located?. I also have 2000 accent and its fitted with an intermittent wiper relay p/n95240-33000. The '04 is not fitted with one. I have contacted Hyundai and they weren't support.
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Whenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
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I have a 2004 V6 LE with about 135k miles. I cleaned the throttle body two weeks ago, just because I hadn't ever done it. It wasn't too dirty. Before the cleaning, it idled at < 1k revs. Now, when I start the engine cold, it revs at around 1500, sometimes higher. It goes back to normal after the engine warms up to operating temperature.
Also, I hear a very slight high-pitched whining (maybe hissing?) noise when I accelerate. The noise is more prominent when the engine is cold. I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.
It feels like I'm depressing the gas pedal a little bit when I have it in drive or reverse, and it wants to pull harder than usual. When I bring the car to a stop with light brake pressure, as it drops into first gear, the car gives a slight tug forward, again, as if the gas pedal is depressed. I mention this to show that it's not just an issue with the rpm at startup.
I suspect that the issue lies with the throttle position sensor, which I may have jostled when I moved the throttle valve. The method I used when cleaning was, I first tried opening the valve by hand with the ignition off, but the resistance was much higher than I had anticipated. So I did the key-in method by turning the ignition to ON and putting a brick on the gas pedal. There was a high-pitched whine coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the key was ON, which I had not noticed before; I wonder if that is normal.
This seems to be a rather common issue after cleaning the throttle body cleaning, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus solution besides to wait it out.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
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I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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I've got a 2000 accent 1.5, and I keep getting a code for a cylinder 3 misfire, when I change the spark plugs, it runs great for about 50 miles or so, then back to square one again. I just changed the coil pack the other day and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. It has massive hesitation under heavy throttle, and the check engine light begins to blink if it sits and idles for too long. I've scanned it multiple times and it's always been cylinder 3, so it's definitely set on that one... I'm about stumped on what this could be. Also, the previous owner said that after a hot day of driving, the ECU fuse under the hood will blow out, what could cause either one of these things?
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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When sitting in Neutral or Park with the engine warm, my throttle goes from idle 650-700 right to about 2000 RPM. I have 14,000kms on it now. The fast idle works OK at RPMS between that OK when the engine is cold so it doesn't look like a ECU Problem.
There is no way that the RPM can be set lower, when attempting to go lower it drops right to idle. The dealer says the TPS is testing OK, but it never did this when new. It used to go gradually right up the scale.
What the dealer TPS testing actually measures? I suspect that it only measures the output voltage to be within requirements of 5 to .2vdc, but doesn't have anyway to measure a linear change in voltage that should be taking place when the throttle is depressed. And since the engine never tries to speed up unexpectedly except under no load conditions like this, they say it is normal and won't change the TPS.
My guess is that the TPS resistor is not working linearly and that the first part of the throttle movement doesn't change the output voltage to allow throttle setting for a lower RPM than 2000 under a no load condition only.
Remember you can only test this in park or neutral with no load and the engine warm.
Further investigation has shown that the TPS output is linear and the ECU just doesn't react to changes in voltage that will allow the engine to run at less than approx. 2000RPM under a no load condition. Apparently all the 2.0 litre engines perform the same way by design.
It would seem to indicate that safely controlling your vehicle with precise fuel adjustment in tight places is not necessary by someones standards.
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I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
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I just picked up a 2014 Accent GLS and I have a question about it, this being my first Hyundai. When I start the car it has what to me is an unnaturally high idle noise. For the first minute or so it idles around 2000rpms then slowly works its way down. There is also a loud almost clicking noise from the engine. It has just under 3k miles on it so it's still a new engine. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it just the tenancy of this particular vehicle?
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