I have a 2001 accent manual transmission. Last week I noticed it is to weak NO POWER. The engine is not responding, too slow..to go 60 km or 40 miles/hour I have to shift fast to 4 gear. My car is 200,000 and my mechanic told me, I have a bad clutch...
View 12 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
It has been more than 2 years and I am still very frustrated with the voice recognition. The problem is that the when I want to use the voice dialing, 90% of the time, the system interprets the number 4 as 0. But it will only mix up when the 4 appears in the area code. For example, when I say 416-123-4567, it will respond as 016-123-4567. Other numbers are responding correctly. In general, it is very unreliable in responding correctly to my number 4. My English is very fluent but with a very slight Chinese accent. The worst part is when I took the car and tried to show the problem to the service supervisor (with him in the car), the system will respond to my number 4 or 9 correctly.
Recently, I have bought my complaint to the dealer again. This time, the service supervisor who is also Chinese, told me that many Chinese customers have complained about the same problem. However, there is no software update on the system to address this problem.
I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
View 21 RepliesJust Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
I recently became the owner of a 2001 accent with 73k on it. The clutch needed changing on it so after stripping all that out when I put it back together I noticed that the fan switched on for about 20-30 seconds after turning the engine off. I've also had to disconnect the maf because it was running very lumpy after everything went back in. I'm not worried about the maf its only a few mine job to change. I'm just wondering if it's normal for the fan to come on like that?
View 5 RepliesWhat may be wrong with my 2001 Accent? The engine has occasionally cut out in the past and the Engine Management light has come on, but the car has always restarted and the light gone out.
On the most recent occasion though, the engine would not re-start and when I turn the ignition key to the first position there is no Engine Management Light or ABS Light - I have normally seen these in the past when the ignition is on and they went out when the engine was started but now they just don't light up at all.
There is no power at the diagnostic plug, all fuses seem OK tested with a multimeter (unless there is another hidden away somewhere for the ecu?), all of the electrical earths/ grounds that I can see seem OK. Is it likely that the ecu has failed or may there be a simple fix.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL. I have had the alternator, sensor and battery replaced recently. Well brakes etc too.
My problem is now the car will not start. It was fine this morning and later in the day I went out to start it to move it and there is NO power to it at all.
When I put the key in to start it, no power, no lights etc..
I just bought a 2000 Accent for my sons first car. I an having some problems with the a/c not working. Here is a little history of the car, the dude I got the car from said the a/c was working before someone broke out the radio bezel to seal the radio( I don't know for sure that it was working). I replaced the bezel and installed a factory radio and everything works fine ( radio, blower,clock , lighter & all wiring looks good). The only thing that is not working is the a/c button it will not light up and there is not power going in or out of the switch. I checked all the fuses and relays and they are good. I used a jumper wire on the compressor and it kicks in, but is a little low on Freon( going to top it off tomorrow). Will the triple switch kill the power to the a/c button( I would think it would just kill power to the compressor)? Is there another switch or relay that I might be missing somewhere?
No A/C Light, No A/C, Not Cold
I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, GLS, 3 door, Standard trans, 1.6. The only factory option above base is A/C.
About a month and a half ago my engine was running hot, one day the temp was climbing and then just dropped like it had been doing for a few days. This car has never run hot before. The next morning before leaving for work, when it was cold, I removed the radiator cap to check the level and it was at the top and the reservoir was at the correct level. After that it never ran hot again. I had the dealer flush it and new cap and thermostat, no overheating problems.
Last week on the way home all of a sudden the engine started running at 6000 rpm, I thought it might be the 3rd party cruise I had install when I first got the car opening the throttle. Had it towed home and the wrecker driver was watching under the hood as I started it again. The throttle linkage remained in the closed position, the engine should be idling but it ran back up to 6000 rpm again. There was no movement in the linkage. I connected my OBD Scan Tool to check for any codes, there were none.
Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
I bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
My car has started to do something odd. Whenever I am in 3rd gear, at about 2000-2200 rpm, the engine will revup 100 rpm or so and then back down (only for a split second). This only happens on 3rd gear and only at about 2000 rpm. Its a 2005 Hyundai Accent Hatchback with an automatic transmission with Royal Purple ATF. I also have a SRI and manga-flow muffler (if that makes any difference).
View 1 RepliesTiming belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
View 2 RepliesI've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
View 7 RepliesHave power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
View 6 Replies