Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2007 Driving Slow When Going Uphill
Nov 19, 2013
The issue that I'm having is that when going up hills, the car like automatically starts slowing down basically losing power seems like. I have to put it in low gear and even so it sounds like its straining to get up the hill. No more than 20mph and then begins to drop lower. When going up drive way I have to make a complete stop and then proceed else it will stall. Also, when at stand still in traffic car shuts off. Sometimes I can feel it vibrate before it shuts off other times it just shuts off. took to western auto and they don't know whats wrong with any of the issues. They just said there is nothing wrong with my idle and to put a gas cleaner in when i full the tank up, that didn't work.
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I've bought a second handed European Prius 2en Gen from year 2006, the car is wonderful and I simply love it ! I wouldn't change it for anything, but yet I have some problems with it.
When I start the car I get the Red Triangle on the front panel, and exclamation symbol, a VSC symbol and an engine (?) symbol on. On the Display I always have a black bar on the top with a car and an exclamation point on it. Both can be seen int the pictures below....
At this point the car runs normally, the only things I notice are :
1 - When I stop the car (without shutting him down) I notice that the consumption of fuel is at 99.9/L because it is charging the battery, which is already full.
2 - The back-right ventilation fan of the car (on the passenger seat) is ON even when the Air Conditioner is OFF.
After a few miles (I don't know exactly when it happens, sometimes it happens when stopped, sometimes when on the road), the car beeps and then it shows a, on the same black bar on the display, a message saying "Problem", after a few seconds I get a Battery symbol on the right of the car with an exclamation point symbol.
At this point the car starts having the following problems :
1 - The motor begins to speed like if I was at full speed on the highway.
2 - I simply can't do an uphill, the car won't pass the 20Km/h speed, if I gain balance before arriving at the uphill, it will start losing speed until reaching the 18-20Km/h.
At this point I really don't know how to solve this. I only know that, the Toyota Representative here where I live (in Portugal), ask me for 2,975Euros (almost 3,263USD) saying that it is a problem in the Hybrid System. But yet it seems strange because from what I know, if the Hybrid System was compromised, the car wouldn't start at all.
Does changing the 12V Battery on the back would solve this (even knowing that the Display shows a fully charged battery ?) ?
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2010 Hyundai Accent GLS (automatic)
Just noticed the last few days that my car has developed a shake when accelerating, but stops after a certain speed. It isn't bad yet, but when I started going up a hill today it was significantly worse. The entire car started shaking, but stop after the car leveled out.
I just put in a new front left and right axle two weeks ago, would that have caused anything ?
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4L GLS is jerking at around 20mph when I slow down for the first 10 minutes that I start driving. I have taken it to the dealership 2 times. The first time, they updated the computer module for the transmission, however the problem was still there afterwards. The next time, I did a transmission fluid flush and fill, but yet I still have the same jerking problem.
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My car struggles to reach 70mph, to the point where uphill on a motorway i come to like 30mph. also it has terrible acceleration where i struggle to get out onto roundabouts and sometimes when I start the car it doesn't start first time and the second time it takes like 5-8 seconds to turn over. it only has 65000 and its a 3 cylinder 1.0L vauxhall corsa. I am going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow as I was thinking that's what it would be but I am not sure.
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My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
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I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
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2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
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Last few months my 08 F250 has been slow going up hills. The fluid checks out ok and it shifts fine.
It just seems to take forever to get up hills. Has 124K....
Also has a huge hissing noise thats RPM dependent on the passenger side. Will make the sound in neutral just revving.
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Bought brand new tires for my 08 Accent. Car still shakes when driving, even while doing 40 on the street. Haven't had the suspension looked at or wheel bearings but would like to know if any other MC owners have had this problem. Car currently has 61,703 miles on it and I am about to do the 60K service next week
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I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
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2008 Hyundai Accent ... ~105k miles ... Up to date on scheduled service
So my wife was driving today, in mildy wet conditions, around a turn at low speed. This occured during light acceleration to prepare to pull onto a highway, so the brake pedal was not engaged. She says that she felt both front wheels lock up simultaneous, and unexpectedly. The rear wheels continued to roll, but caused the car to slide sideways off the road. The front brakes did not release for several additional minutes. Then she pulled off the side of the road and drive ~1/4 mile to park the car at our home.
From researching on the internet, I saw that there may be a problem with the brake master cylinder, or possibly contamination in the brake fluid. The brake fluid has not been serviced recently, and the brakes are a few months old. No other problems or strange noises we have noticed before this. The service center is not able to take us in for a few days, and given the safety concerns, I do not want to service it myself without being able to definitively diagnose what the issue is. The last thing I want is to service "A" and find out the hard way it was a problem with "B".
How I would confirm that diagnosis, and then initiate the repair?
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This isn't my car, but It is my grandparents and I drive it often to my doctors 80 miles away, and to meetings 100 miles away. Both directions are very hilly and one of the road has 3 mile inclines. 2005 Hatch, Automatic.
Fresh spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, air filter. 95k miles.
Gas mileage is ok, but it has a really hard time getting up hill. I will be almost pedal to the floor going up the hill for 3 miles at 3k RPM.
Is this something I should be turning OD off for? I checked the manual and OD wasn't mentioned in the glossary.
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