Gmc - Sierra1500 :: 2006 - Spark Knock Happens When Driving On Flat Roads And Going Uphill
Aug 15, 2013
I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
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Recently it feels like the transmission is 'hunting' drops a gear, picks up a gear when driving constant speed on flat roads. 2.0T with tiptronic. Additionally, very intermittent, the car will get a shimmy around 48-50 mph. feels more transmission related and it is not the tires since it is an intermittent issue.
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I installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited.
I recently noticed a burnt rubber smell after driving on some winding roads where I live. It's only coming from one side of the car. So I had it in for an oil change and tire rotation on Saturday and they told me the following:
My front brakes were 13. My left rear (5) is wearing harder than my right rear (10). Could this be a caliper issue? Or maybe something is just stuck? Maybe take off the tires and lube or grease things up. There aren't any recalls other than a stop lamp switch.
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Just noticed the drivers bucket seat has started making squeak noises when driving over patchy roads. I know that using lube can solve it. My question is can the average person do this and does the seat have to be removed to fix the noise. It looks like 4 bolts will remove it, Now the tricky part. I have looked under the seat and see an electrical cable does this have to be unplugged and do I have to remove the Neg battery cable?
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The issue that I'm having is that when going up hills, the car like automatically starts slowing down basically losing power seems like. I have to put it in low gear and even so it sounds like its straining to get up the hill. No more than 20mph and then begins to drop lower. When going up drive way I have to make a complete stop and then proceed else it will stall. Also, when at stand still in traffic car shuts off. Sometimes I can feel it vibrate before it shuts off other times it just shuts off. took to western auto and they don't know whats wrong with any of the issues. They just said there is nothing wrong with my idle and to put a gas cleaner in when i full the tank up, that didn't work.
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I recently had my ignition cylinder replaced at the dealer. Immediately after this repair, I noticed that several lights were out - lower left radio, lower left dashboard, lower left steering wheel control, some light controls, and drivers side daytime running light. I brought it back to the dealer, and they told me that it was a coincidence that all these bulbs burned out at once (and all on the lower left side) and is not related to their repair. I'm not convinced.
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I am hearing a quiet knock from my 2013 accent, especially when accelerating or going uphill on low RPM. I am getting about 34 MPG after burning a tank of regular gas (87 octane rating) on my commute which is about 2/3rds 50-70mph freeway and 1/3rd stop and go traffic. I usually get more MPG than what the EPA rating is, so that number seems a little bit low to me, but I just got the car used, so I don't know what's "Normal" for it. Idle is pretty quiet though.
I would give a video where you can hear it, but honestly it is pretty hard to hear from inside the car. I generally have to be near a wall with the windows down or something to be able to hear it clearly.
2012 Accent 1.6L GDI Engine Rattle/Knock/Buzz
Also, there are no lights showing on the dashboard besides the ECO light since I have been running the car in that mode. Is it possible that there could be codes that might give more information even though nothing is showing on the dashboard?
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I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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My 4.6 explorer has a spark knock noise when hot. When the engine is cold or on cold rainy days it does not make the spark knock noise. I have tried higher octane gas and octane boosters but it does not seem to work. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes. Could I have a bad egr valve or knock sensors with no codes...
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I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
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Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
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So we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
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I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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Ok, I have a noise, rattle, clunk that is bothering the heck out of me. I know it is not the famous clunk from the yoke or the pads missing on the leaf springs. I have even removed the Tailgate thinking that was the issue, but no it was not.
When driving on gravel roads or if I hit small bumps in the road I hear the noise and it sounds like it is coming from underneath and towards the rear of the truck. It is hard to explain the sound, but it almost sounds as if there was something loose and the metal is hitting again the frame?? I have 126000 miles on it, so I figured I would replace the shocks, they needed it and that did not work, it is still there.
Now the twist, when the temp outside gets below 60 the noise starts to fade away or I have to run over a bigger bump to hear it, and below 40 it almost does not exist. Now the hotter it gets out, the more I hear it and during the summer months it is really annoying. I have also looked underneath and could not find anything that looked cracked, broke or loose.
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This morning i've been to toyota to do the regular service and to try to find that what is creating this noise on my front end ,they removed brackets etc and lube anti roll bar bushes and top mounts as best possible. Still the noise is there. We recreated the noise this morning by circling around at full lock multiple times . They said that if the lube would not solve the problem it could be the struts mount.
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