Found this out last night. On a manual AC/Heater 2008.
If you have the heater on front defrost and then push the recirculation button on/off 4-5 times, the recirc button light will start flashing and the AC button light comes on steady.
Push the AC button off and the defrost will run without the AC compressor. If you want the AC on at the same time then push the AC button.
y gen 5 air conditioner dashboard button light is flashing/blinking, and the A/C is only blowing out warm air now.
Question: does this mean i have to replace the so called freon? or replace it? or is my entire unit trashed?
My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
View 19 RepliesWhat this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
View 2 RepliesHappened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
View 6 RepliesI just got a beautiful red '06 with only 19k miles. It's my second SC, and I can't believe how much I missed it after a four year break.
However, there's already trouble. The roof only opens intermittently. When it works, it's all good, no vibrations, nothing off track, smooth operation all the way open and close.
When it doesn't work, the red light on the open/close button will NOT light up. Nothing happens at all. I will come back to the car a few hours (or minutes) later, and it works fine. The problem never occurs for closing, only opening. Also, several times now I have closed my roof, and then immediately tried to open it again, but no deal. Those symptoms make me think it's not the ECU, but one of the sensors.
BTW, there is no Luxlink installed yet. I have yet to find one that includes the double-click option
Just a little PSA, if your TPMS light shows up, and all the tires (including the spare) are at the proper psi, check the button below the glove box. As long as the warning light is solid, its likely someone pushed the button. I almost paid $120 in diagnostic fee and $150 for a new sensor at the dealer because for some reason, no one knew about this button, or didn't want to tell me.
View 5 RepliesJust wondering if RC owners have noticed if the memory setting buttons on the drivers door panel forward of the door lock illuminate in low light conditions. I could swear they were illuminated at one time but now are not..
View 5 RepliesAs the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
6 months ago After replacing both the battery and the alternator..The seat belt light and battery light both began flashing and then going off ..with no loss of power.. It has been coming on a lot more lately,with no loss of power...I do have a mass air flow code coming up with no issues as far as the car goes..no issues driving. So with a new alternator and battery put in what can be the issue?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
View 11 RepliesWhat a constant blinking 4x4 dash lcon light means? This happens when I hit the 4x4 button, usually the light goes on solid but now it just blinks until I unselect the 4x4 option. It is going into 4 wheel drive because I can feel the heavy steering so I believe the selection mech. is working. I have tried the owners manuals fix for this issue with no change. All tires are the same size and in good shape.
View 14 RepliesI recently noticed an issue with the Power button. I had just pulled into the garage and closed the garage door. I was talking on my phone so I didn't get out of the car immediatly. The garage door opener's light went off after a few minutes and that is when I noticed it. My headlights were on but the light that iluminates the power button at night was not on. I turned the car off and turned the lights off, but the light that normally illuminates the power button was not working.
View 2 RepliesOk so this is a one owner with 100000 miles it runs the tops but when I try to use the AC it will run for say a little while the light on the AC button will flash and then NO AC ! Ive had it at an AC repair shop they could not find anything wrong then took it to the local Toyota Dealer they charged me 190 dollars and could not figure it out either !
View 4 RepliesAir condition will not work in my car. The A/c button will light up but will not do anything. The fan speed will only work on high and not on the other settings. I mean when I set it on 1-3 it will not kick on the fan. When I switch it to 4 it will kick the fan on but no A/C still even at that setting.
View 1 Replies