Avalon 2005-12 :: A/C Blows Hot Occasionally
May 8, 2012
During a trip South last summer my A/C would -occasionally, after hours & hours of running- begin to pump out hot air.
Not warm, muggy, outside air, but HOT air. Then, if you shut it off for a few minutes, you can turn it back on & it works normally.
I forgot all about it, since it only happened twice, once late at night, once midday.
Today, a friend, who was on that trip said he came across a something in newspaper about a fix for this, but now can't find it.
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I'My car is a Gen 3 Avalon (2005 Touring), but, I figure the 2nd Generation Avalon & recent Camry XLS have similar interior A/C layouts in the interior.
PROBLEM: If I've been traveling on a hot day with A/C on, at some point after 3-4 hours, the air coming out of the REAR outlet starts to blow HOT.
Again, front A/C outlets still blowing nice cold air, but rear outlet blows really hot air. If you shut the A/C off for 1/2 hour, (or shut the car down for 20-30 minutes), when the A/C runs again, everything is fine again. I think it must have something to do with icing (?) and the flaps on the ventilation system.
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Heat shield around the rear muffler near tail pipe is a piece of junk. it makes noise because its so flimsy. The wind blows on it going down the road its about as strong as tin foil. If you hear noise from the rear, check both heat shields they may have stones or leaves inside them, they can make weird noises.
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I occasionally hear a buzzing sound in my driver side door. I turn down the radio to make sure it wasn't the speaker. This noise only last for a few seconds then goes away.
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2007 Gen 111, with 148000 miles. Recently I notice the master warning light coming on occasionally when I am braking. I do not have to be braking hard but it seems to show up more often with the engine brake on. Read out on the top of the screen reads "Problem". I am not finding much of anything in the book on this. It did this for a few times a few thousand miles ago and then did not do it for awhile and now it does it again occasionally, but more often. IF it gets bad I'll take it in but otherwise I figure on waiting until the 150K maintenance.
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I own a 2002 Grand AM GT. With the engine temperature reading around 200, and the heat set at maximum, frequently, for about a minute, I will get nothing but cold air. At maximum heat setting, on one day, there would be hot air. Yet, at another time the air output would be lukewarm.
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My daughter has complained about periods of no heat- fan blows but cold air. Next time the heater works fine. She is keeping coolant level up but does need to add a bit (pint or so) say every other month. Last week during the Chicago snow storm she called and told me the heater (which had been working) blew a bunch of "smoke" into the car and onto the windshield and windows which then froze solid. I assume the smoke meant steam and she did say it had a sweet smell when I asked her.
Car was towed to a SAAB dealer who ran the car for a couple hours and found no issue and then drove the car for a period with no issue. I had my local mechanic also check it in the past for no heat and it also worked fine then. Only thing I can think of is that there might be a small/intermittent leak in the head gasket with an exhaust bubble forced into the cooling system? That does not explain the steam in the passenger compartment though. Could it?
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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I drive a 2005 Pontiac Vibe that occasionally will not start on the first try. It seems to only happen when I drive it, let it sit for a short amount of time (5min-1hr) and try to start it again. When this happens, it has always started on the second or third try. It always starts fine when it sits overnight. Is this something I need to be worried about or costly to fix?
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I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
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Changed battery in my 05 Avalon, how do you reset the sunroof? I'm having to hold down the button to work it!
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I recently bought a 2005 Toyota Avalon Xls with 90k miles on it. The car has been averaging a very disappointing mpg of 11-12 in the city and around 17 on the highway. (much lower than the advertised 22/30 mpg)
At first i thought the mpg gauge could be malfunctioning, so i calculated it myself and ended up with same result: 11 mpg in the city. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, but plan on doing so ASAP. What could be causing this issue.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited, and recently the VSC warning light came on (and is still on). Following some of the advice on accessing codes (like jumping ports on the OBD2 plug) I ended up getting codes that said my #7 cylinder had intake issues. Funny...I don't recall seeing a V8 under my hood.
I am hesitant to take the car to the local Toyota mega-dealership because of the excessive amount wanted to simply read the codes. How I might either access codes for the 2011 or even how to clear the light in order to see if it returns or not.
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I had new tires put on, front end alignment done, had to have tires rebalanced and still major shaking between 40 -60 mph. What it could be??
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I am getting ready to drop the transmission pan on my 2006 Avalon XL, clean the pan and magnets, replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refil with WS fluid. How to remove the three or so bolts on the transmission pan that are blocked by the subframe connector (or whatever is blocking the bolts)? I plan on buying a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench in order to perform the job. Is there anything else that I need to be aware of when doing this?
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I just changed the ATF fluid and filter on a 2006 Avalon. I added a little over 4 quarts, maybe 4.1 quarts. How to check it if there is the proper ATF amount. There are 4 notches on the transmission dip stick. Do I leave it running or not. How do I check it??!
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I have looked through every post and idea possible with no remedy for my no start condition. I have tried everything that I am capable of doing without diagnostic computers and other specialized tools. A little history of what happened. While idling in the parking lot for a few minutes, truck all of the sudden start running rough, and acts like it is going to quit. Hurried out of the parking lot to make sure that I made it home, but the the truck would only get up to about 25 MPH, but I finally made it home(about 3-4 miles).
NOW, the truck won't start at all, but just cranks. Some more detail about how it cranks. It cranks fast, I separated the batteries by disconnecting the grounds on each, and made sure both are charged. Batteries are only 3 months old from Ford Dealership. As the engine cranks, oil pressure registers after a little while, (longer the first time for some reason), and as soon as oil pressure shows up on the dash indicator, black smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. The engine is trying to start a little bit, but it mostly just cranks.
Things that I've done: Changed fuel filters, Motorcraft (new orings). At first the pump was pumping large bubbles through the line up into the upper fuel filter, but after sitting it appears that it is not pumping bubbles anymore, and I cycled the Key more than 10 times. Did the bubble test while upper filter was removed. Unplugged ICP sensor. Pulled EGR, installed new one. Pulled oil filter and made sure that oil is pumping.
Checked FICM voltage, with key on Injectors buzzing, also engine cranking for quite a while. Never dropped below 48.5 V. Pulled FICM just incase and performed repair procedure, still same volts and no start. Coolant level is good. Checked oil level. unplugged EGR. Checked filter Minder. checked for chafing on FICM harness. Unplugged MAF. Checked FICM relay operation, Fuses all around. I need this truck to run.
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I recently purchased a 2005 f-150 4x4 with 115,000 miles. The truck is in overall great shape but does have a mysterious transmission issue i have been chasing for over a month. The truck runs and drives great aside from a occasional rough shift. The overdrive light flashes and the monitor displays "trans fault". I have had the truck to a few different mechanics including the local Ford dealership. It pulls p0702. The truck will manually shift into 4x4 but it will not engage by using the switch. I have replaced: Trans wiring harness, checked all fuses, dropped pan and replaced all wires, nuetral safety switch and a few other misc. parts.
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I know this is trivial, but the manual says that to get all 4 doors to open with one click on the FOB instead of twice, you need to take it to the dealer. I recently got an 05' XLS with the key FOB, and a key for the ignition. How to change the door unlock mechanism to unlock all 4 doors with one click.
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My navigation system on '05 Avalon XLS is frozen in the home screen. I'm curious how I'm going to be able to change the clock and stuff like that if I can't get it to work again.
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We just got the car and I know for fact the CC worked before. Now I don't even get a light when pushing the on/off button on the end of that incredibly weak column arm.
Is there a fuse, or relay? I checked under the hood in the fuse/relay box everything there seems fine, although I don't know if 1 of those relays controls the CC?
2006 Avalon
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