BMW :: 1985 - Sporadic Brief Stalling / Starter Spins Engine With No Hint Of A Start
Aug 2, 2015
Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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I own an 85 toyota pick up. It has a 86 electrical system with a 95 engine. To date, this truck has run like a top until I got in the other day and turning the key nothing happened. That is to say, the starter did not turn or kick out. I had the starter tested and it is fine, I tested the starter relay and the neutral position switch. All the wiring checks out fine except for one That comes off the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood.
This wire seems to be a ground for the coil side of the relay. In my books, it should go to a clutch /start switch that I can't find. When I follow the wire it goes from the fuse box into the right side of the engine compartment into the fender area then runs toward the cab but I do not find its color combination going into the computer. I had this same problem with a 86 truck before and never found the problem.
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
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I've got a 2001 4.6 F150, starter spins just fine, but it won't start. Checked all the basics, but it has no spark, and no pulses at the injectors. Is the PCM dead? Wore out the Haynes manual on this one....
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I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
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My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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I was riding my 1985 Monte Carlo SS down I-20 and the engine abruptly shut-off. The radio and all of the lights were still operating. I pulled over to the service lane and waited an hour for a tow truck. While waiting, I was constantly checking to see if the car would start. After an hour, the car started again and I went on my way. I left the car parked for about 5 hours and when I went to start it, the car started right up. After making it about a mile down the road, the engine shut-off again in the turning lane of a busy intersection. I wouldn't start again after that.
I had the car towed 30 miles to my home and left it sitting. I just changed the alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery, the car still won't start. I used all high-end parts, no cheap stuff. The battery meter is reading low, even with the new battery.
The has an aftermarket UNGO alarm system in it, which is "spidered" into the ignition system. This prohibits power to everything except the lights if the key isn't in the ignition.
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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I have an 01 2wd with 6.8L, 149K and had her for about 3 years now. Today I went out to leave work, inserted key and went to turn it on. As I reached the say 3/4 position all the dash lights came on as usual and then I heard a small "click" sound as I finished turning the key, then is just went loose. The key now has no resistance. it just sort of "free spins". not all of the way around or anything. She did not start and the dash lights are still on. Had to disconnect the battery to get dash lights off.
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176,000 miles. Replaced heads and oil cooler approx 25,000 miles ago. Haven't had a lick of engine problems until today. Just got my '06 out of the shop getting new brakes and rear wheel bearings today. Drove to the store to grab something for dinner and it wouldn't start.
Checked my scangauge and only getting 350lbs HPO.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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So lifted my Manual 1.8t B5 onto jack stands to start some serious work on it. Found that lower rear control arm had gone "significantly bad" and the right drive axle shaft had pulled out of the outer CV joint. Needed to warm up the oil before draining it so put the car in neutral and started the engine. Went outside to check on something and WOAH, the right drive axle that had come apart from the CV joint was slowly turning WHILE IN NEUTRAL. The left drive axle that is still attached to the outer CV joint and with the tire attached but off the ground is standing still.
I can grab that spinning drive shaft and it stops but I can still feel it vibrating. Let me reiterate, the left side is doing nothing and the right side spins while in neutral.
Is this normal? This doesn't seem possible. Is it just that there is insufficient friction without the outer CV joint to keep it from spinning, ie. even though in neutral there is sufficient friction on the flywheel from the clutch plate to give torque on the driveshaft. But what I don't understand is how the right one can turn like that while the left one doesn't. It would seem that something else is going on.
I guess a car's one tire can be spinning on ice while the other does not. It is just strange that this is happening in neutral.
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