Toyota - Tercel :: 1985 - Stalling / Dying At Idle
Aug 4, 2015
I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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I have a question, what happens is when I'm driving along at lower speeds and slow down, perhaps at a stop sign, when I go to accelerate again, to cross the intersection for example, the car "chokes" or seems to be almost stalling. Once I have obtained a steady speed again the problem disappears.
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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I have a 93 tercel that has developed a weird engine problem. It starts fine and will drive fine for about half hour. If u stop after half hour and shut engine off and 5 minutes later try to restart and it will crank over for at least 10 seconds before it restarts. After it is running again it seems to have a serious stutter and doesnt want to idle. When u shift into drive it stalls and you have to crank engine for another 10 or more seconds before it will start again, and when it does start it still stuttering and wanting to stall. If you keep foot on brake and other foot on gas it can be driven and once the car is moving over 10 mph it runs fine. The wires have been changed and the rotor and the cap and also timing belt replaced. Plugs also were pulled and inspected. Showed sighns of wear but all were nice tan color and looked good.
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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1994 Toyota Tercel manual transmission 284k miles
Began having this problem earlier this week and it's steadily disappointed me every day. Initially car would not crank (turn key and nothing happened), so i read online and did the following steps after each of which it did start once or twice no problems before failing on me again!
First I checked the battery and it's at a solid 12.7V and tightened the connectors to the battery.
Checked starter (took out and to o Reilly, they plugged it in and it worked no problem, but they said it had some grease in it so i cleaned it up and the car started no problem, so i thought problem solved)...
Next day it wouldn't start again so I thought it might be a connection issue, i cleaned the positive terminal to the starter, and both positive and negative battery connections and it worked for a day and a half (worked this morning, but then failed this afternoon)... I checked the charge and from the positive terminal to the solenoid is still 12.7V so that's good right? I also got a light with a continuity tester from the solenoid to the engine but not! When i grounded to the frame (which was the opposite of what three website i was reading said would happen)
Most recently it cranked once but didn't start then refused to click crank or do anything since..
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1991 Toyota Tercel 197,000 miles 5 speed is popping out of 5th gear, if I don"t hold my hand on the shifter it pops out.
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My 1987 Toyota Tercel wagon works very well -- except that it won't start in wet weather. Maybe this is condensation somewhere, maybe not.
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My Brother-in-law recently lent us his 1995 Toyota Sienna which had 196,000 miles. After returning it, he asked if we had any problems with it. We questioned why he thought we would have and he said that the vehicle was stalling at various times when the idle was low - i.e. at a stop light etc. This happened intermittently and his mechanic could not diagnose the issue. Other than this, the vehicle operates fine.
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When I brake, my car engine is shaking and seems want to turn off. I change the 4 new spark plugs and it doesn't work much.
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92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
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I have a 1993 toyota tercel that has a strange problem. The car starts fine when the engine is cold. If I drive it 15 to 20 minutes and stop and then try to start it again it will either not start or if it does, it makes a putting noise and shakes. Also if this is happening and I turn the steering wheel, the car will stop.
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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Sometimes my car starts when I turn over the key once. When it won't start, if I jiggle the steering wheel several times it will start. (When it's cold or humid it rarely starts without first jiggling the steering wheel). I'm not locking the steering wheel and I don't have trouble turning over the key. When the problem first developed I was told it's not the battery, alternator or starter. (I have a Toyota Tercel so the key goes into the steering column). (A few months ago a shop had it a whole day but couldn't get it to act up; then the problem went away for a few months).
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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I have a 1983 Toyota Tercel SR5. The car runs really well, however I have encountered a problem. When I accelerate there's this rattle-like sound that gets louder as I go faster. I was with my father and we had to speak louder to talk. He suggests that the noise is not in the engine but could be in the drivetrain. The noise is not changing with the engine RPM, just the car. It goes with the sound of the wheels; the faster I go, the sound gets louder. It sounds serious, but how? What are some of my options? Is it my drivetrain? Or my brakes?
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Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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