I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
View 2 RepliesI jacked up both front wheels and I can't move them at all. I was able to get the car into neutral and still they won't move. emergency brake off as well (even though that only stops the rear wheel) Could the disc brakes be too tight or could they just be on all the time somehow? I had noticed that when driving, it felt like the brakes were on. This feeling was especially evident when taking my foot off the gas pedal to glide on flat ground, and the car would slow down faster than I thought it should. Also notice a huge drop in MPGs. I know the car is FWD, so maybe there is supposed to be resistance but I can barely get either wheel to turn more than an inch or two.
View 12 RepliesBack in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesLately almost every morning my brakes have been seized. After releasing the parking brake the car won't budge without a bit of gas and a loud BANG from all four wheels as they become unstuck. And I don't mean a small bang, it sounds like someone whacked the wheel with a sledgehammer. It has been cold, snowy, icy, wet, and very salty here lately, but the car is parked in an underground garage overnight where the temperature is above freezing.
After becoming unstuck the brakes are noisy and very rough. They'll also re-seize at each stoplight, but with just a small bang. This slowly gets better as I use them, until the next time. Is this normal?
I can't imagine it's good for the health of the brakes for this to be happening. I've heard of this happening if a car is left sitting in wet conditions for a couple weeks, but only after 12 hours, and again at each light? I also had the dealer take apart and clean the brakes about 4 months ago.
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
I have a question, what happens is when I'm driving along at lower speeds and slow down, perhaps at a stop sign, when I go to accelerate again, to cross the intersection for example, the car "chokes" or seems to be almost stalling. Once I have obtained a steady speed again the problem disappears.
View 6 Replies1994 Toyota Tercel manual transmission 284k miles
Began having this problem earlier this week and it's steadily disappointed me every day. Initially car would not crank (turn key and nothing happened), so i read online and did the following steps after each of which it did start once or twice no problems before failing on me again!
First I checked the battery and it's at a solid 12.7V and tightened the connectors to the battery.
Checked starter (took out and to o Reilly, they plugged it in and it worked no problem, but they said it had some grease in it so i cleaned it up and the car started no problem, so i thought problem solved)...
Next day it wouldn't start again so I thought it might be a connection issue, i cleaned the positive terminal to the starter, and both positive and negative battery connections and it worked for a day and a half (worked this morning, but then failed this afternoon)... I checked the charge and from the positive terminal to the solenoid is still 12.7V so that's good right? I also got a light with a continuity tester from the solenoid to the engine but not! When i grounded to the frame (which was the opposite of what three website i was reading said would happen)
Most recently it cranked once but didn't start then refused to click crank or do anything since..
1991 Toyota Tercel 197,000 miles 5 speed is popping out of 5th gear, if I don"t hold my hand on the shifter it pops out.
View 16 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota Tercel wagon works very well -- except that it won't start in wet weather. Maybe this is condensation somewhere, maybe not.
View 3 RepliesWhen I brake, my car engine is shaking and seems want to turn off. I change the 4 new spark plugs and it doesn't work much.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
View 4 Replies92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
View 2 RepliesAfter I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
I have a 1993 toyota tercel that has a strange problem. The car starts fine when the engine is cold. If I drive it 15 to 20 minutes and stop and then try to start it again it will either not start or if it does, it makes a putting noise and shakes. Also if this is happening and I turn the steering wheel, the car will stop.
View 5 RepliesSometimes my car starts when I turn over the key once. When it won't start, if I jiggle the steering wheel several times it will start. (When it's cold or humid it rarely starts without first jiggling the steering wheel). I'm not locking the steering wheel and I don't have trouble turning over the key. When the problem first developed I was told it's not the battery, alternator or starter. (I have a Toyota Tercel so the key goes into the steering column). (A few months ago a shop had it a whole day but couldn't get it to act up; then the problem went away for a few months).
View 2 RepliesSo, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
I have a 93 tercel that has developed a weird engine problem. It starts fine and will drive fine for about half hour. If u stop after half hour and shut engine off and 5 minutes later try to restart and it will crank over for at least 10 seconds before it restarts. After it is running again it seems to have a serious stutter and doesnt want to idle. When u shift into drive it stalls and you have to crank engine for another 10 or more seconds before it will start again, and when it does start it still stuttering and wanting to stall. If you keep foot on brake and other foot on gas it can be driven and once the car is moving over 10 mph it runs fine. The wires have been changed and the rotor and the cap and also timing belt replaced. Plugs also were pulled and inspected. Showed sighns of wear but all were nice tan color and looked good.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1983 Toyota Tercel SR5. The car runs really well, however I have encountered a problem. When I accelerate there's this rattle-like sound that gets louder as I go faster. I was with my father and we had to speak louder to talk. He suggests that the noise is not in the engine but could be in the drivetrain. The noise is not changing with the engine RPM, just the car. It goes with the sound of the wheels; the faster I go, the sound gets louder. It sounds serious, but how? What are some of my options? Is it my drivetrain? Or my brakes?
View 4 RepliesGot a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
Today I had a wonderful experience at the morning session of the Auto X school at Waterfest 19. It was my first autocross experience and, man, it was a blast. I couldn't believe the car I've been daily driving for three years has so much untapped potential!
Anyway, I had a bit of a technical issue that was holding me back. I got my first two runs in with the instructor on board; I was slow but had no issue. Then, the instructor took the wheel to show me how it was done and ended up spinning the car out on a section of the course with back to back 90's turns, turn #2 having a reducing radius. It felt as if the brakes just locked up and the back end just came all the way around. Once I got back in and had more of a grasp of the car's ability, I experience the same issue and had a few spin outs of my own, in glorious clouds of white smoke.
The feeling is like the car locks the brakes, the brake pedal travels further to the floor, and the throttle is disabled until the car settles again. It even happened once or twice without pressing the brake at all; just engine braking and hard turning in, the brakes locked with no interaction with the brake pedal.
I've been able to duplicate the experience by "panic braking" in the straight line. When the car begins to skid, letting off the pedal will not disengage the brakes and the throttle will be deactivated until the car settles.
What would cause this? ESP was off, but do our cars have a yaw sensor or some system that will still apply the brakes when the car is at its limit? I searched but didn't find much. The car is on stock suspension.