I've got a 2001 4.6 F150, starter spins just fine, but it won't start. Checked all the basics, but it has no spark, and no pulses at the injectors. Is the PCM dead? Wore out the Haynes manual on this one....
View 12 RepliesI have a 2005 ford ranger, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 60psi fuel presser, has spark and injector pulse, will try to start if you hold the throttle a little over 3/4 the way down, but will not fire on starting fluid.
View 3 RepliesWas called today to look at a car that wont start its a 92 Chevy lumina euro with the 3.1 v6 automatic 4 door. The car has a new crank sensor recently installed ran well for a while and now has no injector pulse. Checked for spark its good. sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it fired for a second acted like it wanted to run and then died. Checked for fuel at Schroeder valve it has fuel there I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but it sprayed pretty good. I'm not real good with electrical but thought maybe the ICM under the coil packs could be bad I have one off a running engine on my shelf but wanted to see what other people had to say first.
View 4 Replies'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
I got a problem with the injectors there getting power but no pulse, what do i need to do to trace the problem, not sure what to do next!
View 7 RepliesI have a 02 venture with the 3.4L. No injector pulse when no start. Security system seems to be working properly. Just changed the crank sensor behind balancer and still does the same thing. No trouble codes present. Just not sure what to check next.
View 1 RepliesHere's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
I have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
View 2 RepliesMy friend like to get his 1990 740GL back on the road. It starts and dies. Narrowed it down to injector pulse. Noid light is bright the first couple pulses then gets weaker and weaker while cranking to almost nothing. Tried a new radio suppression relay.
Tested the voltage to the positive side of the injector plug and it is full voltage with no drop from battery voltage. I tested the negative side of the injector plug for resistance to pin 19 on the ECU and it was perfect no resistance. I thought that was a pretty good sign the ECU was bad. Replaced it. Jetronic and same exact number. Same exact symptoms. I checked the grounds on the valve cover to firewall and the ground on the intake from the harness.
What else could it be?The ECU I replaced is in the passengers kick panel. Is there another computer for the injectors?
I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
View 1 RepliesStarting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
View 1 RepliesGot a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
My 97 F150 4.6 4x4 threw a P0302 and P0401 the other day, I traced the miss fire to a loose injector plug. I reset the codes last weekend, I got in the truck and went to the Dump and to town to pick some stuff up. It threw the EGR code again, so this morning I did a little checking on the EGR I cranked the truck and disconnected the FPR vacuum line and hooked it to the EGR valve and the truck died down but didn't completely die.
Now the green line that went to the EGR valve felt like it had a slight bit of pressure coming from it. Is this normal? I did pull the white feed line from the EGR Regulator and it had good vacuum.
The regulator also makes a humming sound when you cut the truck off. Ill be pulling the alternator this weekend due to it going out last night, while I'm in there if Ive got to pull the throttle body id rather do it while I'm elbow deep in it. So does it sound more like a Clogged Throttle body or a Faulty sensor?
My 6.0 keeps trying starts on a regular bases. I was told it was a week injector by mechanic so we replaced that one and bought a new starter. Within 2 days it had fried that one also. We did check batteries and they tested good even put them in another dismal and drive them for a week. Mechanic told us we need to put another injector in it. But I don't see how a injector can fry the starter.
View 12 RepliesSo after work tonight I went to start truck it turned over fine but wouldn't start, when it finally did it barely ran and then it was fine, I had it b4 when I start it would turn over for a little bit b4 starting, would that be fuel pump?
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty, gas engine. This will start fine, then a day later, it won't. Wait 30 minutes, then it starts.
Starter and battery are fine. It acts like it isn't getting fuel. Fuel pump? Filter? What else might cause this?
The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
View 9 RepliesAfter the details below, the truck finally started & I let it idle over an hr. Then turned it off for the night. Just to check, immediately tried restarting. Turned over very fast. Started once almost immediately & ran for 1 - 2 sec, then died. After that it turned over fine, but no attempt to fire - just as it's done in the past.
2000 F150, 5.4 L gas. Couple weeks ago it didn't start. Cranked fine - no sign of starting. It did this once a couple mo before that - wife was shopping & didn't start at the store. By time I got there, it had started. Her "solution" was loosened / retightened the gas cap (no, don't know why).
Never found a problem - didn't do it again for months. Then it did. Figured a code scanner would show something relevant to starting problem. It didn't - as far as codes go.
Couple weeks ago, battery was NOT dead by any means, but slightly weak (hadn't driven for couple weeks). I charged the battery (< 1 yr old). Seemed to take charge OK - didn't take long. But, after charging, volts at the battery = 12.8v.
Is it possible that's too low for these trucks & cause starting problem? It turned over quite fast - still no sign of firing. Gas isn't old. New Autolite spark plugs. Clean air filter.
I decided then to use the "jump start" setting on my charger (2 weeks ago) - still didn't fire & made no difference in cranking RPMs. Jacked around that day a couple of hrs. Checked all fuses (inside & under hood).
Bought the scanner - needed one anyway. Actron 9580A. All it shows on codes is a problem ABS wheel sensor (C1230) and a non-MIL code:
P1000: "OBDII Monitor / Drive cycle test not complete."
Suggested fix: "drive vehicle until drive cycle test is complete."
I don't think that's keeping it from starting. No idea about the drive cycle test. The battery hasn't been disconnected OR dead since I replaced it. It's certainly been driven hundreds of miles since new battery. Right after reading the codes today, decided to try starting. Didn't turn over quickly - battery somewhat low after 2 weeks w/o driving.
Surprise - it started - though didn't turn over fast. I let it idle some, then started recording data w/ the scanner. Where a couple weeks ago w/ the engine turning over like mad, it wouldn't start or even fire.
Note: only real difference in today (when finally started) & 2 weeks ago, or the time several months earlier: today is much cooler - in the 60's - vs. 90's the times it didn't start.
So, right back at square one - no signs of what's keeping it from starting. Maybe need some instructions on using more advanced features of the scanner / recording live data (if it starts again).
2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
So my aunt has a 2002 ford f150 king ranch 5.4l and a night ago it started this problem which when you put it in drive which she has to put it in 2nd for it when she pushs on the pedal it will rev up to 2500rpms than jerks and goes and its usely fine till she stops than goes and it does it again...
Than today it wouldn't even go in anything but reverse... So than we herd about the Range Sensor on the side of the transmission and it seems like it was it so I unplug it when it was running and when i push on the pedal and it revs up to 2500rpms it will go forward and have power. So we went to get a new range sensor after like 4 hours trying to get the dam thing off and another 2 to get it back on.. I started it up and only reverse works again... So I unplug the harness to it again and we got the gears but 1st and 2nd will just rev and go.
We at a lost right now i even tighten the shift screws under the dash cause our expedition was loose at one time and the gear shifter was loose like hers. But even tighten the bolts it still don't fix the looseness or even the gears.. Is this a transmission problem? OR even the torq covertor?