Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Revs Then Goes In Gear But Reverse Is Fine
May 30, 2016
So my aunt has a 2002 ford f150 king ranch 5.4l and a night ago it started this problem which when you put it in drive which she has to put it in 2nd for it when she pushs on the pedal it will rev up to 2500rpms than jerks and goes and its usely fine till she stops than goes and it does it again...
Than today it wouldn't even go in anything but reverse... So than we herd about the Range Sensor on the side of the transmission and it seems like it was it so I unplug it when it was running and when i push on the pedal and it revs up to 2500rpms it will go forward and have power. So we went to get a new range sensor after like 4 hours trying to get the dam thing off and another 2 to get it back on.. I started it up and only reverse works again... So I unplug the harness to it again and we got the gears but 1st and 2nd will just rev and go.
We at a lost right now i even tighten the shift screws under the dash cause our expedition was loose at one time and the gear shifter was loose like hers. But even tighten the bolts it still don't fix the looseness or even the gears.. Is this a transmission problem? OR even the torq covertor?
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
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I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
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In my 1998 f150 4.6L 5 speed manual. When I go to put it in reverse I get 1st instead, but if I do a second shift to reverse I get reverse. This happens on an average of once a week.
I know this can happen in FWD cars where you put it in one gear and get a different gear instead. Something to do with the shifting cable. But the f150 is RWD, the shifting problem only happens in reverse. Is this problem someone without ASE certificates can do, or without dropping the transmission?
I'll add to this so I don't start yet another post. Ive thought of the problem and if it was really going into 1st instead of reverse the problem likely would be bad enough it would just stay in 1st. Its possible that I am getting 4th gear when I go into reverse which tells me the clutch grabs really well, and its a problem I really need to fix, I don't know that much about transmissions but I do know if it keeps getting 4th instead of reverse, the clutch wont be so good pretty fast.
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2003 F350 5.4, 4R100 trans.... I've had this truck parked for a few years but want to get it into service for farm use.
In park or neutral, it revs great, idles a bit rough but not terrible. But in drive under load it I can't get it above 1500rpm most times unless going downhill, and then it shifts very late, and I have to get it up to 3500rpm and then let the throttle off to get it to shift. It does better in 4Lo with shifting, but it's still very sluggish.
Now it says to check fluid level in Park at idle. When I do this, I just get fluid on one side of the dipstick, not a full dip as you'd see on an oil dipstick. And the wet on the fluid goes up past the hash marks quite a bit. I'm use to seeing the dipstick get oil all the way across, and then a bit higher just up the edges, but have always read it at the full cover point.
I suspect low fluid, but I'm not really sure with the way the stick reads. I was thinking of draining it all and then filling to spec as per: [URL] .... but have a long drive to go get MerconV.
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Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4 motor and a auto transmission and when I go in reverse the rear end makes a loud whining noise? The fluid level is fine. Should I add the gear oil additive to the rear end or change the rear end oil and add that? I am looking to sell the truck so what could cause this noise?
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Anything else that could cause reverse to go out of an automatic tranny other than the tranny being shot? I don't know of anything but any way to keep me from replacing a tranny.
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2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
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My friends truck is having a problem, and I haven't found any info on the specific issue. when you shift from P to D and accelerate, there's a slight grinding clatter in the tranny i think, bump it to 2 and the noise is completely gone! pull it to 1, and there she is again, also in reverse it does this, speed is not a factor, only the specific gears. i had read a thread which mentioned a "sun gear", and also that 1st and R are on the same bands?
I believe it was for a manual tranny that I had read about, but what this could be?! he's got a slight drag on the rear brakes, i assume it's his E-brake, could that have caused a transmission failure? We've removed the driveshaft and checked u-joints and all, nothing there, but when the truck reverses on the ground, you can watch the driveshaft bounce like it's binding. We grease the slip joint while we had it off, and we were able to spin the rear wheels by turning driveshaft w no problem while off the ground.
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Woke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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It started with not being able to pull the shifter into gear...when started and no wipers, interior light, found a blown fuse, repaced it, all ok, blew fuse again, bigger fuse. It still works, now I have no high beams and cruise. 170,00kms....
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So I sea foamed the passat vac/intake 2 days ago and car drove fine then did oil change 1 day ago 5/30 all I had with additive resline. Since then car revs then shifts into gear or stays in wrong gear until I rev the car. Never had problem shifting until now. Low oil pressure or electrical issue from sea foam vacuum leak.
2002 VW Passat 2.8 AWD
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My car will not leave first gear until the car reaches 60 x 100 revs 9 has heated up. After leaving first gear it shifts smoothly so I doubt its the transmission fluid, plus it's over 14 thousand miles and I was told not to change the fluid for the transmission. I think it could be a bad solenoid because when I bought the car the dealership wouldn't let me take it home until they installed a new one or else "it wouldn't leave first gear" if so witch solenoid would that be so I could replace it.
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I have a 98 F-150 that just went under a trans rebuild. It now will NOT shift from 1st to 2nd. It revs up to 3200rpm's, shifts to 2nd then chirps the tires as it immediately slams back to 1st. Is it possibly a solenoid issue? Looking for some useful info.
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2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
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So after work tonight I went to start truck it turned over fine but wouldn't start, when it finally did it barely ran and then it was fine, I had it b4 when I start it would turn over for a little bit b4 starting, would that be fuel pump?
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PCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
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We have a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty, gas engine. This will start fine, then a day later, it won't. Wait 30 minutes, then it starts.
Starter and battery are fine. It acts like it isn't getting fuel. Fuel pump? Filter? What else might cause this?
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