Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F350 - Revs Fine But No Acceleration
May 24, 2017
2003 F350 5.4, 4R100 trans.... I've had this truck parked for a few years but want to get it into service for farm use.
In park or neutral, it revs great, idles a bit rough but not terrible. But in drive under load it I can't get it above 1500rpm most times unless going downhill, and then it shifts very late, and I have to get it up to 3500rpm and then let the throttle off to get it to shift. It does better in 4Lo with shifting, but it's still very sluggish.
Now it says to check fluid level in Park at idle. When I do this, I just get fluid on one side of the dipstick, not a full dip as you'd see on an oil dipstick. And the wet on the fluid goes up past the hash marks quite a bit. I'm use to seeing the dipstick get oil all the way across, and then a bit higher just up the edges, but have always read it at the full cover point.
I suspect low fluid, but I'm not really sure with the way the stick reads. I was thinking of draining it all and then filling to spec as per: [URL] .... but have a long drive to go get MerconV.
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2003 6.0 F350... Under full throttle from take off goes about 20 mph just revs at 2500 let off the throttle in feather it shifts and acts like it wants to go just not allot of power sometimes. In neutral won't rev past 2700 rpms I do hear a screech from the turbo on acceleration and declaration. Also if in tow haul the truck won't shift at all. I can get it up to speed but even the smallest incline drops to 50 mph then takes bout 2 miles to get it back up to 65 mph or if I go downhill.... turbo makes the noise the whole time sometimes goes into passing gear in have to let off in it kinda my the truck hop in this is at 60 +mph. Only thing I have really tired was fuel filters and checked at plugs and boots.
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02 f350 xl with factory cd player. I have power going to the unit like the clock but will not turn on completely. I have checked all the radio fuses and they are fine. I also swapped another factory radio from another one of my trucks and it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
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And if I have to sift through one more "My O/D light is blinking."
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC with several issues but right now I'd like to address the one plaguing my transmission. If I crank the truck and take off it will not shift out of first gear, well it might but it'll take a while, be at high rpms, and a hard shift, throwing the 1-2 shift error code. Now if I disable O/D with the button on the shifter and take off it shifts through all gears fine. I can drive it normally and if I hit the highway, when I'm up to speed I can enable O/D, it shifts into O/D and I can keep on trucking. When I stop I disable O/D and take off normally again. After about 10 minutes of driving and several start/stops even with O/D disabled it will eventually throw the 1-2 shift error code and give me a harder shift into 2nd and I guess enters its limp mode but is still drivable. This appears to be the only code dealing with the transmission.
Due to the fact that it shifts fine with O/D disabled, doesn't skip any gears, and I can manually shift it through 1-2-D I'm guessing it's not the mechanical diode I've heard so much about but an electrical issue. Before I bought this truck it had been abused, at one point the front driveshaft came loose and ripped the wiring harness going to the TRS in half. They soldered it back together but it still looks a little rough. I figure this is a good place to start. What readings I should get at the TRS? Sensor side and plug side. I have the AE enhanced ford bundle and a good DVM. If the TRS can't cause an issue like this where do I go from here, shift solenoid?
TLDR Version
2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC
Won't shift out of first with O/D enabled.
Shifts fine with O/D disabled.
Can manually shift through all gears.
Eventually throws 1-2 shift error code.
TRS/TRS Harness has been damaged in the past.
Appears to be an electrical issue with the transmission.
Can the TRS cause an issue like this?
How do I test the TRS/Harness?
If not the TRS what could it be, shift solenoid?
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2007 F-350 4X4 King Ranch... I have the 6.0 diesel. I am on the road to Houston, Tilden and San Antonio TX, and I am noticing a whistle on acceleration. I can change the tone by how hard I push down on the accelerator. I thought it was a radio issue and turned the radio off and got no change. Turned the a/c off, no change. Down hill or coasting, nothing.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased in Sept 2014. When moving slowly such as turning a corner and I have to let up on the accelerator momentarily, when I press down again there is nothing for an unsettling period of time, maybe 2 seconds, as though the engine died, but it didn't and it always comes back. Is there a firmware programming update for this?
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My 2006 F350 is giving me grey hairs. I'm trying to figure out what's going on with it. I have been getting an occasional (more often than not) grinding noise from what seems to be the front of my truck. It will do it from a stop, under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Doesn't matter. If I let off the throttle momentarily it will stop until it shifts and will grind again through all shift points it seems.
Logic says it's got to be the wheel bearings or locking hubs. I recently did both on both sides to no relief. Because this is an 06 it had a different hub set up then the previous years which I've read a lot of info about (needle bearings). It doesn't make a lick of difference if hubs are locked or on auto. If in 4x4 (ESOF) or 2wd.
As mentioned I replaced both wheel bearings with FORD parts and both locking hubs From FORD as well. (Small fortune). Axle u joints seemed tight. Greased me up but no play.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 2wd Dually - that only only produces cold air conditioing on hard acceleration only stays on for a few minutes then falls away.
The temperature is cold when its going. I've checked the levels and its gased OK. There is no voltage to the clutch on the compressor when it is not working. So I take it, that it isn't the clutch shim/spacing.
If I accelerate hard it comes back immediately. Whether I am going slow at 1500rpm or doing 70mph at 2500rpm - Uphill or downhill. Its seems to need a substantial amount of Turbo boost for just a few seconds to turn on.
I actually bled the system a little and its made it worse. Stays on for a shorter time and isn't as cold. However the low pressure side is still on the high side at 50psi when running.
Its done this for approx 2 years and its getting worse.. And now its really hot outside.
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I have an 06' f350 6Ltr. Over 300 k. Good shape, i have owned it for about a year. My first diesel. Last week it wouldnt start, had a 1/4 tank. Read about problems with other trucks with a broken pick up on fuel pump. So i filled the tank and it started. Next morning used command start and it ran for 1 minute then shutdown. took about 5 minutes of manually turning it over and it fires up ran all day. Does this almost everyday since and now shuts down while driving after hard acceleration and surges under acceleration when on incline or underload. Changed fuel relay, fuel filters. Researched and asked around but getting mixed opinions. I am mechanically inclined but this is a little beyond my scope of trouble shooting and id rather not start throwing parts at it.
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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2003 6.0 is acting crazy again. Has new ICP, IPR, oil discharge tube, and hpop. It cranks right up but one time you crank it and all the gauges work correctly, especially the fuel gauge. The engine will idle perfect but when you accelerate it has a dead miss. May crank like that 2 to 4 times. Then you crank it and it runs like crap, and the gauges won't work, the fuel gauge goes past E and the light comes on. As long as that happens it runs terrible, but when the gauges are working it idles great but has a miss under acceleration! It was running fine, then just went nuts!
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 6.0 it's srw lariat edition it has Manual hubs but electronic 4x4 switch I have changed all fuses and relays but still the light won't come on I've tried manually locking the hubs and still nothing....
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I've got a 2003 F350 CCSB SRW V10 Auto 4X4 3.73 LS diff. The tranny doesn't always go into overdrive when I get about 40 or 50, even 60. I went down the freeway the other day at 65 in 3rd turning about 2500 rpms. Am I hurting anything here? One thing I have noticed is the overdrive light on the shifter does not work. Light doesn't come on. Leads me to believe that there is a frayed wire in the steering column. Could that cause the tranny to act funny? The cruise control works, so I'm thinking the speed sensor on the diff is ok, but I could be wrong.
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauges were acting odd, and clicking under dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change
Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not battery, wont even jump
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I have a 2003 F350 with 7.3 L. I was driving down the road the other day and my headlights suddenly went out. I kept diving with my fog lights on and several minutes later the headlights came back on. Then the next day they went out again, came back on and then went out again and they haven't come back on. I have checked all the fuses and they are all good.
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I have a 2003 F 350 Diesel. When the heater is on, I can smell diesel fuel through the vent. This happens mainly when I am at a stop sign and the fan is on high. I did some research on this forum and found some others with a similar problem. The question I have is it seems like some said it was the cracked injector cups or a leak at the reservoir on top of the motor where the filter is. What I wasn't sure of was the symptoms. If it is a crack injector cup, would the smell be all the time and not just when I am stopped at a stop sign? Or would it be intermittent as well? It is definitely not exhaust smell. It smells like fuel. If it is the gaskets in the reservoir, I think I will do the blue spring replacement cause that seemed to improve a couple things based on the treads of the forum. I do see drips on the pavement every once in a while at the front of the truck towards the passenger side of the truck. Not all the way to the side near the tire, but off center on the passenger side. Is there anything that could be leaking fuel on that side of the motor?
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What size the pitman arm nut is? And where to get one? I am lifting my truck soon and I'm going to double nut that baby on there. I know they're prone to loosening. I just wanted to have all the parts before I started.
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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In my 03 F-350 my radio is cutting on and off . Have figured out problem is in dash cluster. Which wire do I use to run radio to battery and bypass the cluster???
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