Bonneville :: Coolant From Lower Ports Throttle Body - Gasket?


Apr 27, 2014

Took off throttle body on 3800 series1 S/C and coolant is leaking from both bottom ports from mounting area on motor. Is this normal ? Intake area into S/C was dry but very much build up. The 2 ports just end at bottom back of throttle body and are sealed by the gasket. Coolant comes out steadily from those 2 holes. Is this an intake problem, gaskets ?

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Golf IV R32 :: Whistle Sound Under Acceleration For Some Time - Bad Throttle Body Gasket?

So i have been hearing a whistle under acceleration for some time. Normally comes at 1/2 to full throttle. I also have had check engine light for a bad o2 sensor for about the same amount of time(2months). Fast forward to last week. finally replaced sensor. Check engine is gone. Open her up a little on and on ramp, Whistle is still there and the CEL comes back. Have it scanned, and it come back load calculation cross check 17551. I need an sticker so i rest the ecu (no light) and drove it like a grandma 50miles to get the sticker. No CEL. Get sticker. Just to make sure i wasn't crazy i gave her some gas on the way out of the inspection lot, and there is the CEL.

In conclusion, Between the whistle, CEL, and the fact that i drove it 50 miles with out the CEL coming back under very light throttle, and i just replaced the MAF with a new Bosch 2 months ago, i am pretty sure it is some kind of vac leak.

I have a new TB gasket in the mail, but my question is, Is there other places where such a vac leak is common in these cars? Other info on car.

UM tune
evoms intake
HPA downpipes (whistle started after these where installed)
Flapper
no res
74k on the clock

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Well, I decided to take on the dreaded task of replacing the lower manifold intake gaskets and put in new isolator bolts. It was a major undertaking, and when I finally finished the oil change and fired up the car, it sounded fine. Then I checked under the hood.

I saw coolant spurting out the side of one of the hose connections that I had to take off and put back on. I thought the gasket on it looked pretty worn, but wasn't expecting this!

Unfortunately I don't know the name of the hose connection to pick up a gasket at the store ... it's the larger lower hose that is bolted on to the lower intake, not the hose slightly above it that has the plastic clips.

What is the name of this hose connection so I can try and find one at the store? It's a 2003 Windstar model.

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Not overheating.

I noticed the smell of antifreeze one day and upon inspection came across a small puddle of antifreeze on the lower plastic under body. The car only has 30k on it and decided it wasn't the hoses. I noticed spots of antifreeze around the filler neck and thought it might be the cap. It was a cheap part so changed that out for a new one and still had puddles. I thought it might be the hoses after all and decided why not change all the hoses and antifreeze. Still the puddles are there which only leaves me to believe that it's the filler neck. Unbolted the filler neck for inspection and the inlet/outlet have no issues. I'm thinking it might be where the cap sits on the filler neck. It only seems to happen when it's under pressure. At start up there is no issues. I tried to let it heat up and build pressure to see if I can spot the leak but no joy. I'm guess it happens while under throttle.

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Both front doors are OK, not 100% perfectly aligned with the body of the car, but MUCH better than the rear doors....

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I've changed the gasket, cleaned the mounting surface as good as I could. Tried re-torquing the bolts, but on that score - what is the torque specs for the 2000 3.0 liter Ranger?

But ultimately, what the heck is wrong here? This should be a pretty brainless operation really. Am I tightening the connection too much and cracking the gasket? I guess that has just occurred to me, although the gasket is not as stiff as a typical fiber gasket is.

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Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?

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My car started fairly easily, and I continued with running it to 4k RPM a few times, then took it for a ride. I floored it a few times, as suggested, to clear everything out.

Now, my 2004 J-VIN Camry is running around 1200 RPM, it was at about 650-675 before the cleaning. Is this normal? Do I need to d/c the battery to reset the ECU so the car can re-learn with a clean TB?

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