Bonneville :: Engine Takes Times To Get It To Kick Into Gear
Dec 7, 2010
Alright, I picked up this 92 bonne se 3800 about a month ago for cheap so i figured i would have to do some work to it...i was not let down there...when i first got it it would start but kind of rough then smooth out and would run and drive great...now for the issues
when it got colder (and was still starting) i would have to wait for it to warm up or rev the engine a few times to get it to kick into gear, otherwise you would shift into gear and nothing would happen.
Now the thing is not starting, after cranking it once in a while it will hiss a puff of something out of the ends of a rubber connector on top of the throttle body. and the area around this is wet with what smells like gas. what would this be? it will crank over but not catch. and it just happened. it was starting then then next day this.
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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I have a 1994 Bonneville with charging problems. When started the gage on the dash might go up to 14 and stay there or not charge at all. The car at times while driving will charge then not charge and then charge again it is all over the place. I have put on a new battery, Alt. and starter still the same thing. I have had the car at Battery Specialist and they said it's in the wiring. I have put a new harness on and still the same thing.
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Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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i just wanted to test out my car today... i was going about 85mph... switched from the regular "D" to "S" and floored my car... redlined at S5.... going about 120mph... but never kicked into 6th gear.
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In the last month or so, my Phaeton started to 'kick - jump' when it shifts between 2nd and 3rd gears. It mostly happens during downshifting below 10mph, close to stopping (the car is hot/cold; sport/regular mode - no difference) It sometimes does it during up-shifting. What may have been causing it?
I took the car for service last week, after talking VW techs service manager suggested to replace the 'Mechatronics (?)' in the transmission and have already ordered the part. I am wondering if this is a major work, and I am a bit worried if they can put my car together the way it is.
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When I reverse (and wait 3 seconds just to ensure the gears are engaged), on occasion I feel a stutter/kick.
To offset it, I will tap the pedal when reversing so its not continuous. What this could be?
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We have a 2006 Subaru Forester with approximately 118000 miles. My wife is the sole driver of this vehicle, we purchased it used a little over two years ago. When the engine is cold (only when it is cold) a loud "kick" sound comes from what sounds like the rear of the car when and only when switching from second to third gear. The dealership flushed and calibrated the transmission but the problem persists (albeit less).
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I'm working with some family members who have a 97 Bonneville with the 3800 supercharged and approaching 300,000 miles. It already has a rebuilt engine and transmission.
Just recently when putting the car in gear it sounds like it goes in gear (the engine rpms settle down) but the car doesn't move. Under the hood I can see the arm that shifts the transmission. It moves normally and appears to engage the transmission properly, but the car just doesn't move.
It doesn't do this all the time, but it does it about 90% of the time. The other 10% it goes it gear and drives just fine.
Today while testing a little more we put it in drive and it didn't want to go, but with the RPMs up around d 3,000 the car creeped forward a couple feet and stopped.
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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When you put trans in reverse makes whine noise no reverse. The forward gears are fine. Could this be a solenoid problem?
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When driving do you feel the gas engine kick in and out, we do to a fair degree, I thought this type of transmission was smother. This really drives the wife nuts and I'm not sure if it's correct or not.
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Auto tranny takes a half second to go into gear. It doesn't slip just slight hesitation going into gear. This rig has 173000 miles on it and I don't know its maintenance history and don't want to stick much money in it.
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My transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
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I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
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I have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
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I have a 98 GS4 and a 04 RX330 and one major issue I have with the RX, is the poor downshift response when slowing down, to say 5-10 mph and give it gas, the transmission takes FOREVER to realize I want first gear. If I am giving it 50% throttle at 5-10 mph after slowing and needing to get a move on, the throttle seems like it is there, but the transmission takes an eternity to realize "oh, you want first? hang on while I think about it", then it grabs first and LURCHES forward, giving everyone a very uncomfortable jerk.
My GS however, when down to those speeds is always spot on the right gear. Yeah, I know its comparing a GS to a RX, but wouldn't you think that Lexus would figure that one out?
Is the 04 worse than 05 or 06? Can I use an 05 or 06 trans controller and get some improved transmission response?
You can tell by the lurch, the throttle is responding to the driver's throttle pedal input, but the transmission isn't figuring it out till way too late. I don't get the lurch like at slower speeds and higher throttle input, but it sure makes for a poorly driving car.
I see the same problem when taking slower corners, get it down to 10-20 mph for a corner and the transmission won't downshift till AFTER the apex of the corner, despite what throttle pedal is pressed.
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I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
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It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
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