Camry :: 2002 - AC Compressor / Belt Started Squealing For A Few Seconds Then Stopped


Nov 19, 2013

I have a problem with my A/C Compressor. The other day while going down the freeway my belt started squealing for a few seconds then stopped. Yesterday when my wife was driving it did it again, and then another time while at idle and the engine struggled and almost died.

I went to look at it last night thinking maybe the belt was loose, but what i found was when the A/C Tried to engage, you here the click, and you see the compressor clutch jolt but not spin. It tries to engage 3-4 times before the system stops and the ac light blinks. Also found some burnt belt on the clutch pully. To me it sounds like the Compressor is locked up or frozen somehow inside.

My first instinct is to get a new compressor. Ive done a bit of mechanic work but not much on A/C. If i replace the compressor, do i just have a shop vac it out, replace, and recharge? car has 150,000 miles, do i need to replace any other components? 2002 V6 Camry....

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Chevrolet - Equinox :: A/C Not Working When Car Stopped / Compressor Only Turns On For A Few Seconds

I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).

Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.

The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.

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For a few months now every time I start the car with AC on the belt squeals really loud. It's been getting worse so I need to fix it now. I just don't know if it's just a belt change or something bigger like the actual AC unit. I got the car certified pre owned in 07 and have never changed an engine belt on it so it's probably due. Here is a video of the noise, first part of video is without AC then I turn it on to here the squeal. Is this simple belt change or a deeper issue with the AC? [URL] .....

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Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.

I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?

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The 98 camry squeals when started with the ac on. I think it is the ac belt. Does that mean the compressor is bad or the belt isn't tight enough. Also the car idles roughly and at low rpms. 500 rpm namely. Sometimes on rare occasions, the car will die when put into drive. I want to pass smog but i don't know if it is going to! i cleaned the throttle body, no change to the idle, is my throttle maladjusted.

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My friends 02 Camry A/C light is flashing. A/C compressor is not coming on. About a month ago I replaced the MG A/C relay with a Napa relay and cleaned out the cabin filter to fix same concern.

It appears the relay is bad again. Are the OEM relays recommended over the aftermarkets relays for this concern or am I overlooking something else.

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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:

1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.

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Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.

They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.

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I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.

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