Camry :: 2002 LE - All HVAC Function Stopped Working From Standpoint Of Air Blowing
Mar 30, 2012
My buddy has a 2002 Camry LE(?), without Automatic Climate Control. He had experienced the flashing A/C light like many others, but his solution to the problem was to direct-wire the compressor to the battery. Seemed to work fine, and the compressor still works. Fast-forward to two weeks ago. All HVAC function stopped working from the standpoint of air blowing. No outside air. No A/C. No heat. AND no rear defroster. He replaced the Magnetic Clutch relay tonight thinking it might have something to do with the problem, but that did not solve it. We checked the blower motor, and it only has 0.01V going to it when the air is on. We're getting no sound of anything going on in the cabin.
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I have a 2013 Camry SE that is, out of the blue, not blowing any air from the HVAC system. I checked the 2 A/C fuses any they are ok. The lights light up on the control panel like normal and the rear window defogger works correctly, so I don't think it's the control panel. I can't find any fuses or relays relayed to the blower motor in either fuse box.
What else should I check? The car is still under warranty (for a month!) but if it's a cheap and easy fix, I'd rather save the hassle of giving it to the dealer for a day and fix it myself.
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Just got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
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I have a 2001 E350. The front HVAC completely stopped working, but still getting good air flow from all rear vents. Checked fuses, but not sure where to go next. Not sure if it could be the blower if rear vents still work. Have read that a vacuum leak would cause it to default to the defrost setting, but that isn't working either.
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I have a 2002 Camry. The low beam headlights stopped working last night. All the other lights work. High beam, driving lights, marker/park lights. I checked all the fuses. I changed the headlight relay. Still nothing. Could it be the headlight switch on the steering column? Trying to do more research before I replace it.
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My 14 gx automatic relock function suddenly stopped working... I did not change the setting of this function and it was working very well last days so that when i get out from the car with my electronic key in my pocket, then the car automatically relocks after 30 second, but since yesterday no more this function is working... I thought the battery of the electronic key is low, i changed it but nothing happened.
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So my automatic door lock (set to 60 seconds in vehicle setting) stopped working for some reason. I double checked the setting and it seems to be on the right place. it was working fine before...
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I have a 2011 F-150 FX4. The Sync functions have completely stopped. When I press the phone or talk button, nothing happens. What have I done? How do I get it going again?
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I now have a 2002 Camry and the left rear turn signal has stopped working. When I put the signal on, it flashes about twice as fast inside and in the front, but nothing in the back. I replaced the bulb but it still didn't work. I'm going to switch the bulb here with the right one and see if it's still good just to be sure. Anyway, the rear left flasher doesn't work either. I've had turn signals be fuse related before but not when it's just one signal that's not working. Live in the city and driving without it is no good.
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My driver's side door's soft close function has stopped working. All other doors work fine. I have run it through multiple start cycles since this discovery and no change. What to look for or how to fix this?
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A/C on my 2006 V6 3,3L Sonata just stopped working properly today when driving away from a supermarket, it blows only very hot air regardless of the temperature you choose on the display. It worked fine while driving to the supermarket and nothing remarkable happened to the car while I was shopping. All lights on A/C display, fan speed and everything else works fine, it just doesn't react to the temperature button at all.
I already checked the 10A A/C fuse under the bonnet, it's fine. There is an A/C relay in fuse box that I can check tomorrow but I suspect the fault to be somewhere else.
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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There have been two occurrences where the air conditioning has stopped blowing cold air (blows warm) and the indicator led on the switch is blinking on and off. This has happened twice, about a month apart. The air is generally plenty cold. Does this means the air is going out on my 2002 camry ?
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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Have a 2002 SC lariat with climate control. A few weeks ago, the system stopped blowing air. It seems the brains still work for temp control as I can adjust the temp and the natural flow air through the system will change temp.
I heard a sputtering noise from the fans a few weeks ago at about the time it quit. Is this because the servo motors for the fans quit or if it would be something from the controls?
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On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Sable wagon that is SOHC. Recently the air conditioning stopped working. Took it to a mechanic and he right away found a puncture in the A/C manifold assembly line. I bought the part, gave it to him and he changed it. From there to the next day the A/C was blowing ICE cold until 5 minutes into driving the next day LOUD clanking started happening and it started to smell. Took it back to the mechanic and he says I have to replace the condenser, a/c compressor and drier because the compressor seized. Now my question is, would I really have to replace the condenser? I thought those only needed to be replaced when in an accident? I'm trying to avoid spending over $600 to replace a bunch of things I don't need to replace.
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My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
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So I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
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On my 2002 Kia sedona mini van my CC has stopped working. How do they work and what should I look at as reasons why it just stopped? I just had all the belts replaced and crank shaft sensor replaced, could any of that have played a role?
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