I have a 2001 E350. The front HVAC completely stopped working, but still getting good air flow from all rear vents. Checked fuses, but not sure where to go next. Not sure if it could be the blower if rear vents still work. Have read that a vacuum leak would cause it to default to the defrost setting, but that isn't working either.
View 5 RepliesJust got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
I was driving my F2007 Ford Focus and all the lights on the dash went on and then all the power went off and the car stopped. Once it stopped, there was no way to get the power on and I couldn't switched gears. I guess I shifted into park once the car started freaking out and now it's impossible to switch to neutral. The only light on the dash that works is the anti-theft symbol, which seems to go on for a second when I turn the ignition on. It doesn't stay on solid.
From what I've googled, it seems like the car's computer got tripped into activating the car's anti-theft locking system? I'm not really sure. (I was driving the car while this happened -- scary!) But AAA towed the car to a random auto repair shop near my house. Should I be having a Ford dealership look at this? Or is it fine in the hands of a private repair shop? Timing couldn't be worse -- I was going to drive my car across country for a new job in two days, so I'm hoping this can be sorted quickly and my car will be safe to drive by then.
My buddy has a 2002 Camry LE(?), without Automatic Climate Control. He had experienced the flashing A/C light like many others, but his solution to the problem was to direct-wire the compressor to the battery. Seemed to work fine, and the compressor still works. Fast-forward to two weeks ago. All HVAC function stopped working from the standpoint of air blowing. No outside air. No A/C. No heat. AND no rear defroster. He replaced the Magnetic Clutch relay tonight thinking it might have something to do with the problem, but that did not solve it. We checked the blower motor, and it only has 0.01V going to it when the air is on. We're getting no sound of anything going on in the cabin.
View 14 Replies2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
View 6 RepliesThe touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
View 9 RepliesWhat is the common cause of brake light failure? I drive a 2005 F150 Lariat 4X4. When i started the lights flickered until they completely stopped working. To me it seems like a short, is there a specific, common place where a wire is not properly mounted or rubs on something?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Focus. A year or two ago, I noticed that the fan (and therefore front defroster) really only worked when it was on the maximum setting. I was and still am a poor student, so I didn't bother to get it fixed. A few days ago, I noticed that the fan was no longer working at all, even if it was on the maximum setting. I checked the fuse under the hood and it was in fact blown.
I bought a new fuse and replaced the old one, thinking that I would lick the problem. Unfortunately, no such luck. Based on my reading, it sounds like the blower motor needs to be replaced, but I don't want to sink tons of money in a project if that ain't it. Does my suspicion sound reasonable or is there something else I should check?
Now, if that sounds right, I figure this is something that I can do by myself fairly easily. Will I need to purchase a new wheel as well, or just a new blower motor?
My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
View 5 RepliesOne day it work and the next day it didn't. I checked the 15a fuse and it was good. What else should I be looking at?
View 12 RepliesMy heater fan quit working on my E 350 van. Where are the fuses for this fan. I checked under the hood all of those are fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
View 2 Replies2001 F250 SD 7.3 PSD Was doing a trailer towing road trip too and from Montana. On the way back the cruise control stopped working. Checked fuse #28. Looked fine. Attempted to do a self test on the cruise control. Holding the OFF button did nothing. Never went into diagnostic mode. Button ? A different fuse?
View 14 RepliesI'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
We bought a 2007 XL7 two weeks ago. The second day we had the car the battery was dead. Had it replaced and then the charging system was not reading over 12.3 volts while running. Replaced the alternator but the car still ranges from 12.3 to 14.2 volts while running or idling. Last Saturday the front control stopped working. Could not change the radio, a/c or any other centrally located controls. We had a 2004 XL7 and it was great. Our vehicle was manufactured Nov of 2006 so it was one of the first out, I almost forgot that the speakers pop like something is grounding out every time we open the doors. I ran a Suzuki Motorcycle dealership for almost 10 years and have never seen anything this random in the powersports world. The dealer said he has replaced batteries in 3 other new XL7's. Did I get the only XL7 with Gremlins?
View 30 RepliesBlower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 RepliesThe switch for turning overdrive off that's located on the auto trans shifter stopped working. I've taken off the column cover to see if the wires have been severed from the tilt wheel, but nothing wrong there. I also checked the fuses, and all is well. Is it possible that the switch is bad at the end of the shifter, or somewhere farther down the column?
View 14 RepliesMy drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.