Camry :: 2002 LE - CEL Came On / Code P1349
Mar 31, 2014
I have a 4 cyl 02 camry LE. Recently the CEL came on and a few minutes later the oil light. after a day or so they went away. When it happened, I immediately went to the auto parts store and they checked the engine codes and got only one the P1349 repeated several times.
About 6 months ago my water pump leaked and that was replaced along with the timing belt. Shortly after that I had the oil changed and they over filled it i found out. I changed the oil and that was fine. i did develop a slight oil leak from the top passenger side of the engine though. so far i don't notice my oil level dropping. I just see some oil spray in that area. I mention this as they seem related to the code.
The code relates to Possible causes
- Dirty or low engine oil
- Valve timing
- Oil control valve
- Variable Valve Timing controller assembly
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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My 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
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I've got the intermittent misfire codes on my '02 Camry, and after changing the spark plugs and the ignition coils the problem still persists.
At first there was no noticeable misfire, I took it to two different mechanics and neither said they could find anything wrong. A few weeks later the misfire became noticeable when I'm sitting at a stop light. I can feel an occasional rumble in the engine.
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We just bought a 2002 Camry with 72,000 miles 2 months ago. It now has 74,000 and while on vacation the CEL came on. I took it to a mechanic who got the code P-0304 off the computer. He swapped the number 4 ign. coil pack with the number 3 cylinder. The CEL light went off and I was able to drive the 300 miles home. The next day the CEL started again, but this time it's flashing. I changed the spark plug, it looked good, and still have the CEL on with the P-0304 code.
I've inspected the wiring to the number 4 ign. coil pack and it looks good. I'm thinking the next thing would be the fuel injector.
The car runs great, you'd never know by driving it that there is a misfire occurring. If it's not the wiring or fuel injector what should I check for next?
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It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
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Unfortunately I've neglected changing the spark plugs in a while. I've done so now with NGK iridiums. But still throwing the code. Thought it may be the ignition coil next. Swapped the current coils around to see if the code would change and no such luck. Erase the code and it still comes up as P0304.
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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I am working on a friend's 2002 Camry 4-cylinder on which I recently replaced a leaking head gasket. Since that was competed the car runs fine but it has been throwing the P1346 code indicating VVT/Cam position sensor performance problem. I have a code reader and I have cleared the code a couple times and it re-appears each time after driving the car a while.
I also have a 2005 Camry with same engine, so I switched the cam position sensors between the two cars and the code showed up again on the 2002 while the 2005 still is running OK, so apparently the sensor is not the problem. The 2002 had been worked on before (some head bolt holes were stripped and I had to install inserts for all the head bolts - I used NS300L inserts) and whoever did the previous work was very rough with moving around the wire harnesses, etc, so I suspect it is a bad connection causing the error code.
My question is: can the car be driven in this condition OK, or is there a potential to damage something if the VVT is not operating? I checked the basic valve/crank timing and it is OK, and the engine feels/sounds like it is running very well. Should I be worried about this, or can I wait for a convenient time to try to find the source of the problem?
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The computer is returning P1379 camshaft position sensor. Where is this sensor located on a 2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L and how easy would you rate the job of replacing it?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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I have a 2002 F250 just replaced the transmission range sensor because I got a po705 code, sure enough one of the leads was broken. Now it won't start in park but halfway between park and reverse and when I put it In park the reverse lights come on.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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My check engine light came on.. so I took it to express tires.. And they said that they need to replace my vacuum hoses cause it busted ... well when I saw the guy used the obd checker thing.. after checking the codes.. i saw that when u turned on the engine.. the vsc on and vcs off lights came on..
So I figured after he fixed the problem.. it will go off.. well after he got done.. fixing the problem.. I drove away.. after bout like 2min.. i had to turn around cause the vsc on and vsc off came on.. and I told the guy to check.. And he used his checker.. and there was no problem.. and the "check engine" light is not on anymore.. just the vsc on and vsc off!!
Could the checker.. messed it up??? the vsc off button.. only works when the key is turned on.. " not when the engine started but right before it.. when the power comes on" so the button is working correctly.. it just comes on.. when i start driving the car...
And no they did not check my tire pressure or do anything to the tires or the wheels.. it just turned on.. when he inserted the obd thing to check..
And yes I read the [URL] .....
Is it dangerous to be driving with the vsc and vsc off light on??
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I've got a shop in Az. One of my customers has an 02 with 489,000 miles. The problem is when you drive it about 5-10 miles the "red temp" light comes on then it starts to lose power. Pull over and shut it off for about a minute or two then it runs fine for another 5-10 miles. took it to dealer today and they said it needs a trans axle.
My question is why would it need a trans if it runs good until the "red temp" light comes on? Could it be just a sensor? What has gone bad?
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135.
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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I have a 2002 Regal LS 196000 miles and am getting a harsh shift with a P1811C code. 3.8 engine, MN3 code 4T65E and I was wondering if I should try the ZZ shift kit and the sea foam trick.
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