I drive a 02' Camry SE V6 ... The VSC, TRAC OFF, and the Engine check light appeared one day shortly after I started the car. Along with that, I have to push the gas pedal all the way down for the car to move; smooth launch, opposite of full throttle, and the RPM stays at 2000 unless I pump the pedal. A few restarts later, all of the lights disappear but the throttle problem remains.
View 2 RepliesSon was driving his car today and the roads were patchy ice leaving the addition. As he went around a turn the car started to slip and traction control kicked in. Right after that the trac off light came on and won't go off. Tried recycling the trac switch on and off to no avail. Tried to check the fuse but can't find where it is located.
View 8 Replies2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
I had a dead battery in my 2002 Solara. After I had it replaced the indicator lights on the dash would stay on. Also the fan blower will keep running if not turned off. So I have accessories running with the key in the off position. I have checked all fuses and they appear good. Bad ignition switch?
View 3 Replies2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
My 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
The fuel pump on my 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis is still running after turning the ignition off, causing the battery to drain. Replacing the fuel pump relay stops this from happening for a short time but it soon reoccurs. Is it possible there is a short in the ignition system, or is this a sign that the fuel pump is going out?
View 11 RepliesPurchased a 2007 Kia Sedona EX today for my daughter. Once it got home from the dealership we got washed out! When my daughter started the car the wiper fluid hit the windshield until it was empty and then the pump continued to run. Each time I turned off the ignition and started the van and turned on the wipers (rainy Seattle evening) I could hear the pump continue to run. Finally, I pulled the fuse so the pump would not burn up. This van is in excellent condition with only 48K miles. Am I in for electrical problems with this van or is this a fluke?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
View 14 RepliesStarted with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
Sometimes my clutch pedal stays down on the floor. I can bring it back alive after a few pumps. I assume one of the oil cylinders died. Looking for a schematic of where it s located?
A few days before I felt a metal scraping sound when I pushed the clutch pedal down. The scraping resistance happened when the pedal was aprox. 2-3 cm's from the floorboard. It scratched like 15 to 20 times and then went away. Now the clutch pedal died on me.
Fluids are checked and on level. 2009 2.2 CRDI diesel with 45.000km's ...
The dealer says it can be one of the 2 cylinders but since it's not happening all the time he suggest bringing it in and change them all.
I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
View 1 RepliesOn a 2002 yukon .... Had my oil change and the light stays on.....
View 16 RepliesI drive a 95 Celica with the 1.8L. when there's air in brake lines, and pump the brakes, the pedal gets stronger? It's kind of like that, except my friction point gets lower and lower to the floor. My clutch reservoir was a little below the MIN line but filling it didn't work. I'm assuming air may have gotten into the lines, but how to bleed them.
View 5 RepliesThe Speedometer is not working, it always stays on ZERO, and also the mileage are not running, so my car is not accumulating miles.
I already change the Speed Sensor (VSS), and the Transmission Speed Sensor. (Attach Files for References).
What can be wrong? Maybe the Speedometer Instrument Cluster? My car is a Hyundai Accent 2003 Auto Transmission.
I have a 2000 Explorer Sport. Sometimes when I start it the "Theft" light stays on. If I kill the engine and restart the light goes out.
View 1 RepliesSo I just did my Big 3 upgrade. (all new grounds and alt wire), and now my battery light is staying on. Is this just something that needs to be reset.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Camry SE with the VSC and TRAC lights that stay on. I've diagnosed the problem to be the left rear wheel sensor. I've replaced the wheel sensor only now I have to do a zero point calibration. How to do a zero point calibration?
View 1 RepliesI noticed this morning that since last night the passengers side red interior door light stays on after the door is shut. The dome light shuts off once the door is closed however the red light does not. I've checked all four door light sensors that actuates the interior lighting but they all function correctly without any resistance or stickiness. The drivers side red interior light functions as it should but the passengers side stays on all the time.
I'm worried the battery will be drained if the light continues to stay on. I'd light to figure out why this is happening. If I choose to remove the bulb will there will be a draw on the battery? And do I have to remove the entire door panel in order to remove the bulb?
My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
View 6 Replies