I had a dead battery in my 2002 Solara. After I had it replaced the indicator lights on the dash would stay on. Also the fan blower will keep running if not turned off. So I have accessories running with the key in the off position. I have checked all fuses and they appear good. Bad ignition switch?
View 3 RepliesLast week, my 2002 V6 Camry decided it didn't want to start when the key was turned. That was with my wife driving. By the time I got out there, the car was running just fine. She said it didn't turn over, didn't click, nothing.
Today, it did it again, but it didn't have that magic reawakening like it had last week. I tried jumping it to see if it was the battery, but it did not change anything.
Here's what happens: Turn key to run position, and the dashboard lights up.
Turn key to start position, and there's silence. The clock on the dash turns off (as normal), but the only noise under the hood is the sound of the starter relay making a single click.
Does that mean the next place to look is the starter Solenoid? Can I jump the solenoid like on an old car to see if that starts her up?
I went to start my 97 ranger this morning and when I turned the key I got the standard indicator lights. Then when I tried to start it there was nothing no click no crank just quiet. When I turn the key back the dash indicator lights stayed on even after the key was in the off position and removed from the switch. I tried it a few more times and the same thing happened. I had to disconnect the battery so the indicator lights, radio, etc. would not drain the battery.What do I need to repair this.
View 16 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
2008 Camry Hybrid. Normal lights are dim. Auto on position results in no lights. A turn brings the lights on, but appears to be a "parking" position. High beams OK
The dealership has no clue - they wanted to sell new bulbs. They are barely bright enough to drive at night, certainly not 10% dimmer from age as they described.. (plus the auto on does not work ).
I drive a 02' Camry SE V6 ... The VSC, TRAC OFF, and the Engine check light appeared one day shortly after I started the car. Along with that, I have to push the gas pedal all the way down for the car to move; smooth launch, opposite of full throttle, and the RPM stays at 2000 unless I pump the pedal. A few restarts later, all of the lights disappear but the throttle problem remains.
View 2 RepliesSon was driving his car today and the roads were patchy ice leaving the addition. As he went around a turn the car started to slip and traction control kicked in. Right after that the trac off light came on and won't go off. Tried recycling the trac switch on and off to no avail. Tried to check the fuse but can't find where it is located.
View 8 Replies2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
How to make the fog lights stay on at any position. i tried finding the fog light relay but couldn't locate it.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 1994 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 for a reliable work car. I've spent the last week correcting mechanical issues the previous owner didn't. (Tune up, filters, struts.....)
When I start the car the "failed bulb" indicator light located to the left of the Tachometer is off, but as soon as I touch the brake to put the car in "D" the indicator light comes on and stays on until the next time I start it. I have checked EVERY exterior bulb several times with the car in park, not running. In park with the car running and the same in drive. All exterior lights work but this indicator light won't go off when the car is running.
Is there a fuse, sensor or relay somewhere on this car which may be the source of this problem? Wanting to "Turn off the Lights!"
I had the 2010 Camry I-4 in the dealer last week for the 40K service. They told me I needed fuel injector cleaning and a throttle body housing cleaning which I had done. This afternoon the check engine light came on and at the same time the Slip Indicator light came on.
I ran by Auto-Zone to have them pull the code for the check engine light and it was P0101 which AZ says is Mass or Volume Airflow circuit range and listed probable causes as:Open or short circuit condition, MAF/VAF sensor failure, or Faulty ECM. I called the dealer for an appointment Thursday morning and told him the story and asked if the throttle body or injector cleaning could cause the mass air flow problem. He said "probably not". He also told me that when the Check Engine light comes on the Slip indicator light automatically comes on to show that the VSC is not working while the check engine light is on.
My question is, could the cleaning cause the P0101 and if so what info do I need to argue the case with the dealer? Or, are they unrelated systems?
The computer is returning P1379 camshaft position sensor. Where is this sensor located on a 2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L and how easy would you rate the job of replacing it?
View 3 RepliesMy left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
View 8 RepliesThis morning, I found out that my Camry 2012's backup light did not turn on. When I changed the tranmission shift, there no any letters like D, P, or R appear on the meter panel. Moreover, on the panel, the check engine and slip indicator icon lights turned on. How to fix this problem. I already installed the aftermarket backup camera, and it doesn't work also
View 9 RepliesSo my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2010 Santa Fe and have had this issue for a couple of months. After driving for approximately 20 minutes my ESC indicator light comes on and stays on. I'm not braking at the time or doing anything other than driving in a straight line on a clear road at about 80 km/hr. Drives fine for the rest of the trip even with the indicator on. After I shut the car off and then restart the indicator is off. Later in the day when I drive for another 20 minutes or so the indicator comes on again and stays on until I shut the car off and restart.
View 16 RepliesIs there a relay for door switch and dome light? My "door" indicator stays on. The dome light stays on as if a door is open. Is there a relay for this switch? Where? I've checked fuses they are ok. (even though a fuse indicator light also come on)...
View 4 RepliesProblem I am having with my '04, my shifter stays in the "D" position when selected. The previous owner said it did not use to do that when new, it does not do it when "R" or "B" are selected, so perhaps something inside is awry or something was spilled on it. I thought I may take it apart and clean/lube it.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2013 Elantra GT that my wife drives. We have had it since late September 2012, so it is about 20 months old now, with only 2250 miles. Yes, I know, it is not even broken in yet.
Anyway, yesterday when the wife returned from some shopping she told me that the radio in the car is still on after the engine was off, the ignition locked and the key in your hand.
I checked it out, and sure enough, the radio was still on. I restarted the car, and discovered the power button would not turn the radio off, the radio volume could not be changed, and the station could not be changed. Every control for the Audio system was inoperative, along with all the control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
Every thing else in the car appeared to work. When I shut the engine off, and removed the key, the radio still played on. I took the car over to the dealership first thing this morning; the service rep, the service manager and a service tech could not figure it out. I had to leave the car with them, so that one of their Electronic Certified Techs who comes in later could check it out.
They drove the car to a service bay, and disconnected the battery, so the radio would not run the battery down. When the tech came in, he reconnected the battery, and everything now works. They have no idea at all what happened.
Symptoms:1. The max blower position does not blow at all, but the other positions blow just a little (heat and a/c).2. The heater seems to take a bit to get going. Once it is hot, it seems to do okay.
Questions:1. What steps do I take in a logical order to fix this? Resistor, blower motor, thermostat, heater core?2. This is a loaner van from a family friend. Should I do anything to it? They want to sell it and I am interested in it, but I don't want to start fixing stuff if I am not going to own the thing - unless it is an easy repair under $100.
So, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.